When you step inside Bonnie Gull, you are whisked away from the dark London streets and could so easily be on the South coast. Its white interior is lit with small twinkling lights and is adorned with kilometre of fishermen’s rope evoking the nostalgic feeling of a seaside shack. The infamous Nirvana quote, ‘It’s ok to eat fish ‘Cause they don’t have feelings’ stands proudly on the wall and the winning feature (for me) the map of Britain points out exactly where the fish has been caught that day, which not only means that dishes depend on the catch but you know it is going to be fresh because they are shut on Mondays.
We started with fresh razor clams, whelks and cockles which were superb, salty and left you yearning to be by side the sea. We then followed it with Salmon and avocado with trout caviar and Queenie scallops with slithers of chorizo, both of which were beautifully presented, generous portions but were wonderfully light.
I had heard the fish and chips were something not to be missed, but these were probably the best fish and chips I have ever had. Rather than a few skinny fries artistically stacked in a tower as so often is the case, they were proper thick, chunky chips, they are definitely giving the chips you find in Cornwall a run for their money. The fish was properly battered not the sort that has been sitting under hot lights for hours and you could actually taste it, it wasn’t at all bland or dull.
No meal is complete without pudding and we had three to be exact: Brownies with clotted cream, lemon tart and artichoke cheesecake, which we were intrigued by but was light, creamy and tasted rather like rice pudding.
Bonnie Gull is great if you are after brilliant fresh fish and a bit of escapism from London, being small in size it is definitely best to book in advance as only a couple of tables and the bar are kept free for walk ins and with its current success are likely to be filled up and you don’t want to be left disappointed.
Reservations, 020 7436 0921