The Lord Palmerston in Tufnell Park

14th May 2013

Geronimo Inns have really done a fine job on this North London gastropub. Perched attractively on a leafy corner of Tufnell Park, the establishment was recently renovated and now oozes simplicity and charm, with large windows and high ceilings giving a lovely open feeling. The Lord Palmerston works as one room, a sort of square horseshoe which runs from an intimate corner table to a lounge-style space with an open fire and steps to the garden. The pub also houses an eclectic collection of chairs – including a barber’s chair (apparently you can actually get a trim!) – and it definitely scores points with comfort; many a pub’s downfall is awkward seating.

The menu at The Lord Palmerston changes twice-daily, with the dishes written on a blackboard. It was a refreshing change from getting lost in the sticky pages of a printed menu, and this approach guarantees the freshest ingredients and an innovative range of food. It happened also to be ‘steak day’, with a separate list of cuts – this was too good to refuse, so we went with rib eye & béarnaise, and flank with an incredible sauce (containing 27 ingredients!).

Highlights of the meal were the roasted quail starter; a tender meat dish with delectable smoky flavours, and the gorgeous thick-cut block chips that came with our steaks. As fitting with the brief of a gastropub, dishes were small and perfectly presented. The décor theme of modern-rustic was continued throughout the food, with our plates replaced by chunks of wood, complementing the pub’s feel. A fire was lit halfway through our meal, and the sweet wood smoke mingling with the char-grilled flavour of the steaks added to the intensity of our dining experience.

We would definitely recommend the cheese board – a delightful combination of unusual cheeses to suit every taste. We finished off our meal with this selection, accompanied by a couple of local ales and a great relaxed atmosphere.  The Lord Palmerston re-opened a month ago and is looking popular; it’s an ideal summer pub with an impending barbecue menu for alfresco dining – perfect for the balmy evenings if they ever arrive!

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