Yes it might be on the 32nd floor on arguably one of London’s busiest roads, but Paramount is putting its urban setting to one side and focusing on all things rural with their Foraged and Wild menu, which is available until the 24th November.
It’s four courses of seasonal produce all sourced from our fair island and the ingredients are pretty impressive. We headed up there the other day, to sample it, but before we talk about the food, a special mention has to go the exceptional service, they were quick, friendly, knowledgeable and funny and service really can make or break a meal. Anyway to start was a pressed hare and pheasant terrine with hawthorn berry-rose hop jelly, ground ivy leaves and rosebay willow flowers. The terrine meaty and rich, although it was topped with a cold marinated pheasant egg, which was rather unappealing and almost mucus-y.
Next up was hay baked mackerel, wild sea radish, gut weed, sea purslane, a hand dived scallop and Dublin Bay prawns, and it certainly looked impressive on the plate. The only thing I would say is that the mackerel comes with a lot of the hay it was baked on, and despite scraping off as much as possible, it does inevitably get stuck in your teeth, which is not the best look, nor taste come to that. I also had an unfortunate run in with my prawn which after I had plucked it opened resembled a grey pulp, but then again things in the wild are unpredictable.
But it was the Yorkshire venison served crispy moss, douglas fir pine oil, and birch jus and potato that was outstanding, it was smoky, rich and perfectly cooked. We were also served some slow cooked venison, that was beautifully tender served with mushrooms and a red wine sauce. It really was brilliant.
To finish it was a forest blackberry beignet with a crab apple compote and pine ice cream, it was light, sweet and the pine ice cream offset the sweet fruit perfectly.
After eating all that is left is a walk around the 360˚ gallery, because the sprawling views of the urban wilderness aka London really are spectacular.
The Foraged and Wild menu is available until 24th November and should be stated when booking.
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