‘Let them eat cake’, no not the words of a maniacal French queen but very much the sentiment over at Hotel Café Royal where they’ve just hired ‘the best pastry chef in the world’. Following a 2016 pop-up at the hotel that rocked the patisserie world, and that’s a world you don’t want to rock (coz soggy bottoms), Albert Adrià has proven such a hit that they just had to have him permanently, and now Adrià is here to stay with his restaurant Cakes and Bubbles.
Albert Adrià built a full-on gastronomic revolution with his brother Ferran at Michelin three-star-er elBulli, a meteoric rise culminating in being voted World’s Best Pastry Chef last November by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. He runs his own mini-empire of restaurants, including the Michelin star joy that is Joya Santa, but this is his first proper venture outside of Spain. Welcome to England (excuse the weather)!
Cakes and Bubbles promises to be the pinnacle of Adrià’s work to date, blending all the elements that have made him such a hot ticket, a blend of whimsy and playfulness and tradition and modernity. Look forward to the renowned ‘Tickets’ cheesecake, a cheesecake that combines notes of hazelnut flavours with a non-traditional rind of white chocolate, which comes straight from Adrià’s impossible-to-book tapas bar Tickets. Or sample the superstar chef’s egg flan with dark caramel and homemade doughnuts, his pineapple with palm honey and strawberries and fresh orange jus fruitcakes. Or the menu item that got my juices flowing, as it were,’airwaffles’ with caramelised banana and chocolate ninyoyaki cake balls.
Oh, and don’t forget the bubbles, because Cake and Bubbles haven’t, they have a wide selection of Champagnes and sparkling wines by the glass and by the bottle with a range of prices to suit all pockets.
This new offering, from the hotel with perhaps our favourite hotel suite, joins new opening Laurent, a restaurant at Hotel Café Royal run by Frenchman Laurent Tourondel. Could things at the hotel get any better, we asked? Clearly the answer is ‘yes’ and do you want bubbles with that?