Counter Culture: The Dairy’s Younger Brother

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Emily Gray by | Posted on 6th April 2016
Counter Culture: The Dairy’s Younger Brother

We asked people to tell us what they thought about Clapham, that area south of the river which usually steals your Saturday night. The usual suspects came up – Infernos, the common, Clapham Junction, graduates, rugby boys, beer, that fried chicken shop. Some people couldn’t get enough, some people couldn’t get further enough away; but two places that kept being mentioned and were unanimously praised: The Dairy and The Manor.

Owned by Sarah and Robin Gill, the restaurants have developed a cult following of loyal diners in Clapham and beyond. Following on from their success they took things East and next came Paradise Garage on Paradise Row – known as the rebellious little sister of The Dairy. Well now they’re getting an evil little brother in the form of Counter Culture which opens today right next door to The Dairy.

Pintxos (Basque style tapas) is the order of the day with pickling, fermenting and curing techniques all being made use of. They’re keeping things concise and focusing on quality produce with exceptional meat coming from Nathan at The Butchery, fresh day boat fish from the Bean family in Cornwall and vegetables from Natoora and Namayasai. Plates include hot smoked lamb ribs with miso aubergine and spiced fennel ferment and St Martin Bay mackerel, sweet celery, sour rhubarb and house yoghurt. Things are kept intimate with just 15 seats, 6 of which are at the counter, but there’s plenty of standing space so you can stand, drink, eat and generally be all round merry. And you will be merry because it’s BYOB.

Thank you, Gills, for making Clapham even greater.

Counter Culture: Opens 6th April, 15 The Pavement, Clapham, SW4 0HY, more information here


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