The Handbook
The Handbook
By | 23rd January 2015

Medcalf of Exmouth Market has just got a new neighbour in the shape of Medcalf Traiteur – bang next door at number 38, in what was previously the restaurant’s gallery space. The new project from Simon Lee and Tim Wilson features a simpler menu than the one available at the mothership, one designed to celebrate the craftsmanship of culinary produce from across Europe – along with the opportunity to buy products to try at home.

Gastro history buffs might be interested to learn that the ‘traiteur’ was a 17th century casual food and wine establishment in France that became the foundation for restaurants that opened in the following century. But if you’re not, all you need to know is that this particular Traiteur offers a similarly unfussy and robust lunch menu featuring Slow cooked pork belly, Butterbean and chorizo stew, Grilled salmon and marinated fennel and BBQ salt beef with sauerkraut. Oh yes, and that it’s all cooked on a Big Green Egg BBQ and served with a selection of freshly made salads.

Come night-time, the space is transformed into a wine bar serving old world wines by the bottle or carafe, and light dinner plates with ‘from the larder’ with dishes like Trealy Farm and Cannon & Cannon charcuterie, Bread Peddlers bread, traditionally baked terrines, house made pickles, and cheeses.

Sink into one of the burgundy leather banquets or pull up a reclaimed school science lab stool and get stuck in. With the bundles of cookbooks on display, copper pans hanging from rustic shelving and flickering candlelight, those rubber-necking from the street without will feel as if they are looking into a warm farmhouse kitchen.