Clever Russell Norman. Following on from the popularity of first venture, Polpo, he could well have allowed success to go to his head and either supersized Ramsay style or expanded into an ill-considered and uber-hastily conceived chain.

But no. The former Caprice Holdings Ops Director has played a waiting game with his two ensuing ventures – Polpetto above the French House and more recently Spuntino, his diminutive ‘no phone no reservations’ Italo-US brand extension in Rupert Street – delaying opening until he found his perfect venues.

So a new one-night-only Young and Foodish Spag-Wednesday Meatball Pop-Up is a fitting development. London’s meatball craze emanated from The Meatball Shop on New York’s Lower East Side and has been popularised by the likes of The Rushmore Group’s Tiny and Giant Robots, Soho House Group’s Pizza East and, of course, Spuntino.

Launching 13 April in Andrew’s, the 1950s style greasy spoon on Gray’s Inn Road, Spuntino head chef Rachel O’Sullivan together with group chef Tom Oldroyd will be serving up Spuntino’s classic meatballs with home-made tomato sauce over spaghettini (a thinner version of spaghetti that cooks more quickly). Oh yes and there’ll be Wild Turkey bourbon brownies for dessert.

Andrew's is a London classic and survivor from the era of Formica-clad working men's caffs. It was opened in the capital’s old Little Italy section of Clerkenwell by two Italian brothers back in 1958. The pop-up will be divided into three overlapping sittings of 7pm, 7:45pm and 8:30pm, each lasting between one and one and a half hours and considering that the last Young & Foodish pop-up sold out within 24 hours, you need to get in there and book … like … yesterday.

160 Gray’s Inn Road, London WC1

www.youngandfoodish.com

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