Architect Zaha Hadid’s first designed restaurant space in central London opens this Friday 1 November at the new Serpentine Sackler Gallery in Kensington Gardens. The venue is operated by K&K London Ltd with head chef, Oliver Lange, a past guest chef for Kofler & Kompanie’s Pret A Diner events in London. The Magazine, a former 1805 gunpowder store, is located five minutes’ walk from the gallery itself on the north side of the Serpentine Bridge.
Lange has spent time considerable time working in Japan, immersing himself in the tastes, techniques and textures of the Japanese kitchen and incorporating its precision into his own European heritage. This lead his masters to name him “Ollysan”. Sushi starters include Big volcano roll, spicy salmon, quail egg, black pudding and langoustine, Rainbow trout, celeriac, pink lady apple and elderflower and Robata-grilled freshwater eel, duck liver terrine, apple and brioche.
Mains are more traditional with a touch of the Orient in their ingredients – Iberico pork cheeks, heritage carrots, plum and crackling, Dublin Bay prawns, baby pak choi, corn scone, Butternut squash and bouillabaisse and Black Angus beef fillet, sweet potato, Swiss chard and edamame. As for dessert, examples include Warm chocolate bread pudding and roasted tea ice cream and Tapioca tonka rice pudding and mango sorbet.
Wines hail from worlds both old and new and the cocktail list makes reference to the Magazine’s history as well as the kitchen’s Japanese and British roots. Drink the eponymous The Magazine – Intense plum jam, livened with a hint of chilli and cognac charged with Champagne or the more unusual Beet n’ Black – Gin, beetroot cordial, fresh mint, pressed lemon, blackberries with crushed walnuts.
The organic form of building itself blends into its surroundings – its undulating membrane roof punctuated by columns that filter in natural light. The clear glass walls give the impression that you’re actually dining within the Arabella Lennox-Boyd landscaped garden outside.
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