The Handbook
The Handbook

It seems that the onward march of posh Indians is showing no sign of slowing as we welcome Little Kolkata to Covent Garden. And thank goodness, the past year has seen the Cinnamon, Dishoom and Kricket empires expanding as well as top-end newcomers like Indian Accent and Jamavar laying claim to this growing market, which is great for diners. But also leaves Little Kolkata with plenty to prove as it graduates from sell-out supper club to permanent restaurant next month. And by all accounts, it will live up to all the hype.

Founded by Prabir Chattopadhyay and Biswajit Deb Das, the restaurant focusses on authentic Bengali cuisine, drawing on Chattopadhyay’s childhood in Calcutta and Deb Das’s Bangladeshi roots to produce a taste of home using their favourite spices and ingredients to create something that is both contemporary yet traditional. The pair built a very successful supper club that consistently sold out and realised that there was clearly a wide market for their food and style. Hence Little Kolkata, an alternative name for former Indian capital Calcutta.

The peek preview of the menu we’ve seen includes sharing plates of maacher cutlet, a cod fish cutlet served with a Calcuttan mustard sauce called kashundi and lilish maacher deemer. There will also be a popular Bengali spiced fish egg from the Hilsa.

Speciality dishes, like chicken liver sautéed with spice and fresh chillies and accompanied by home-made truffle paratha will precede puddings including Calcutta mishti doi, a baked sweet yoghurt as well as their cardamom coffee brownie with rose ice-cream, inspired by Flury’s the famous Swiss patisserie in the heart of Calcutta.

So if you’re loving the plethora of new Indians arriving on the London dining scene right now then Little Kolkata is a must-visit.

Little Kolkata arrives in Covent Garden in June 2018, 51-53 Shelton Street, Covent Garden, WC2H 9JU.