What: Goode & Wright is an independent bistro and wine bar on London’s iconic Portobello Road.
New? Originally opening 3 years ago Goode & Wright recently underwent a complete overhaul in November, thanks to new management, which includes an exciting new menu.
Where? 271 Portobello Road, Notting Hill W11 1LR www.goodeandwright.co.uk
On the menu: The menu consists of a selection of small and large plates with a global influence partly due to the chefs, Israeli Oren Goldfeld and Spaniard Gabriel Muñoz Rodriguez, who have combined their talents to create some very special dishes like hake ceviche, almond milk and kimchee crumb, and grilled octopus, harissa yoghurt and herbs salad.
First Impressions: The hustle and bustle of Portobello Road is dying down but still noticeable as we arrive at the restaurant and inside seems relatively quiet in comparison. Our waiter is friendly and guides us through the menu, explaining the dishes and making recommendations.
The Look: The name Goode & Wright comes from a former school uniform outfitter from 1928 that serviced the adjacent Portobello School, therefore the venue has maintained the sign with its original colours and typography. Inside the décor is relatively dark due to the original wood panelling and black tables and chairs.
What We Ate: Crispy Brie Cheese is exactly what you want, crispy on the outside and gooey on the inside, while the tomato and vanilla jam is addictively sweet. Dish of the summer will surely be the beetroot gazpacho foam with pistachio pesto and feta, light and cool it’s exactly the kind of refreshing dish to lap up in the hotter months. Fish fans should choose the flamed salmon with wasabi potato salad and samphire as it melts in your mouth. Vegetarians are well catered for throughout the menu with vegans even getting a shout out too, namely with the matcha panna cotta but unfortunately I struggled to detect any noticeable flavour although it had a great texture. On the other hand the pistachio frangipani tart with pistachio ice cream was a decided hit.
What We Drank: The drinks menu is a carefully curated choice of wines, cocktails and coffees. Prosecco features predominantly in the cocktails section and a lychee puree and prosecco mix is light and sweet. On the sober side a refreshing coconut, pineapple and lemongrass juice is served in what appears to be a thimble but on closer inspection is just a tiny glass about 2 inches tall meaning refills are required after every few sips.
Go With: Tapas dining is a social affair so go with a couple of friends and work your way through the menu.
Final Word: The dishes here are delicious but small, it’s a tapas style restaurant that recommends 2 dishes each but they are easily devoured in a few bites so those with a big appetite will end up racking up the bill. The menu is interesting and innovative but misses the mark a few times by being over-adventurous like with their Guinness chocolate cake filled with marmite Chantilly cream – ingredients that should never mix. Everything is beautifully presented with attention to detail and I like that it is evident that a lot of thought has been put into each dish.