What: The third venue from the Gladwin brothers, who are also behind acclaimed restaurants The Shed and Rabbit, Nutbourne takes its name from the Gladwins’ family farm and vineyard in West Sussex.
New? Nutbourne was launched in the heart of Battersea last autumn.
Where? 35-37 Parkgate Road, Battersea, SW11 4NP www.nutbourne-restaurant.com
On the Menu: Nutbourne has very recently changed the layout of their menu from a selection of small and large plates to the starter, main, pudding format. The menu has been designed to offer diners a true taste of rural life with all-British ingredients. Dishes change regularly but expect to find the likes of smoked hare loin, sunflower seed crusted hake and apple pie with poppy seed ice cream.
First Impressions: Set back from the road, a glowing light draws you in. It has an earthy, casual look inside with an open kitchen and a grill right on the edge so you can get a front row seat and watch your food being cooked.
The Look: Nutbourne boasts an idyllic waterside location with seating looking out over the water. There is a 40-cover outside space ideal for warmer weather decorated with tree palms, festoon lighting, lush foliage and lily pads.
What We Ate: The wild mushroom and black truffle tortellini was covered in Tunworth foam that was light on top and creamy on the bottom, countering the bitterness of the filling. The loin of fallow deer was slightly tough but had that fabulous richness you would expect; it came artistically decorated with venison cigars, celeriac, pear and red cabbage ketchup. The potato mille-fuille seemed like a complementary side to all of the mains and was begrudgingly shared between myself and my guest. The salt-baked turnip was covered in a gorgeous tahini lemon dressing cut through with sweet cranberries and seed clusters.
Originating at The Shed and now so popular it is served in all three venues is the magnum vienetta parfait; creamy vanilla ice cream with layers of chocolate and salt caramel. I was impressed by the caramelised slices of quince, meadowsweet sponge and refreshing clementine curd although the accompanying lovage and whey sorbet was not to my taste.
What We Drank: ‘The daily loosener’ on the menu was Elderflower Birch, a refreshing combination of Wild Birch Spirit, elderflower liqueur, lemon and tonic – a perfect summer tipple and in-keeping with the rural feel of the menu.
Go With: Foodies and those with a bolder palate will love it here, pure British fare on the menu but given an exciting makeover makes it a must-try for those that love good quality food that you may not expect on a more traditional menu – think Marmite and mushroom eclairs and tempura duck heart.
Final Word: I loved the menu here, it’s not often you find such an innovative take on produce all found on our simple shores. The food here challenges the palate in a positive way all whilst being beautifully presented and locally sourced which adds a touch of community spirit to the experience.
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