What? Ross Shonhan, founder of the Bone Daddies Group (Bone Daddies, Flesh & Bun and Shack Fuyu) has just opened his second izakaya and this time they are exploring Nikkei Peruvian cuisine. Most excitingly they have taken a leaf out of Bob Bob Ricard’s book and have a button which once pressed summons over alcohol, although unlike the Soho restaurant which brings over Champagne, here once the button is pushed, a pisco trolley arrives.
New? Yes, it launched at the end of September and arrives five years after Flesh & Buns first opened in Covent Garden.
On the Menu: Inspired by Ross and the team’s trips to Peru the menu is a mix of Peruvian and Japanese cuisine you’ll find ceviche, sashimi, sushi rolls, tostadas and of course the fluffy bao buns and flesh. There are also dishes cooked in a smoker like beef tongue with red onion pickles and celeriac with rocoto bbq mayo and daikon pickle.
What We Ate: We started with curry and nori popcorn which is devilishly moreish and we then had corn in another form, this time as tempura and flavoured with lemon, kabosue and chives, we’re told the intriguing dish is one of the most popular on the menu and we highly recommend. There’s a beautifully fresh and fragrant lobster ceviche with cherry tomatoes, pickled kumquat with fried kataifi and rocoto leche de tigre, we’re told it doesn’t have too much heat but there’s a definite kick. Next up were smoked pork ribs with an aji Amarillo honey glaze that were so tender the meat practically melted off the bone. Then, having had all that, it was time for the main event: the flesh and buns. They recommend two buns each but you can always do as we did, order a bun each and a plate of leaves, cucumber and shiso so you can wrap the meat in leaves for less heavy ‘bun’. New to the Fitzrovia restaurant is the flaky trout teriyaki with cucumber pickle…I wasn’t expecting it but I would say we preferred it to the classic crispy duck leg, although the plum sauce it came with I could eat in a bun alone.
Somehow finding room for pudding, we were tempted by the Nutella croissant tai yaki, but we were persuaded by our waitress to share the rice pudding for two. Pure comfort food and perfect for the autumnal weather. Served in an earthenware pot it is accompanied by a tart yuzu marmalade, granola, and nikka whisky stewed fruit in individual pots so you can mix and match. You could almost justify it for breakfast.
What We Drank: Fans of the signature frozen yuzu margarita will be pleased to hear that it has made it to the second restaurant, so we started with a round, before pushing the pisco button. Be warned, it’s dangerously tempting, and you will probably end up drinking more than you attended. There was a particularly good Hakuto pisco with a strong peach flavour.
Where: Flesh & Buns, 32 Berners Street, W1T 3LR www.fleshandbuns.com
Go With: You’re going to want to order a lot, it’s hard not to, so go with someone who is up for sharing and wants to order as much as possible.