We Review: Dirty Bones

By Fenella Tobey |
15th February 2018

What: A dark den, and brunch menu to cure all hangovers however horrendous and seemingly terminal.

New: Dirty Bones Kensington has been up in running since 2013 and the chain has been thriving ever since. Why? Because we just can’t get enough of their delicious comfort food, banging old school tunes and NYC vibe. Though the establishment may not be new the bottomless brunch menu is, and it was our job to put it through its paces.

Where: 20 Kensington Church Street, London, W8 4EP. www.dirty-bones.com

The Look: We descended the steps carefully, into the growing darkness, and were seated on comfy cushioned benches. Our waitress apologised saying the lighting was more suited to the evening, but I  disagreed. A cosy gloom is the only way I wish to eat a hangover brunch ever again. There were a variety of wooden tables, and geometric patterned tiles from floor to ceiling. Large sculptural lampshades dangling low over the tables, offering a warm glow with which to eat your food. The whole scene was uber chilled and comfy; old school rock n rol,l funk and hip hop playing in the background.

On the menu: Dirty Bones is famous for its comfort food. Good old meat on the bone, in every shape and form, we however were going to sample their new bottomless brunch menu.

What we ate: I arrived suitably hungover, one stage short of pinning my eye lids back a la Mr. Bean. As I clutched the menu stiffly begging it to stop swimming before my eyes, I was confronted by many a juicy and enticing dish.

I am not a massive avocado fan (I know shock horror, in this day and age, is that even possible?) but the sound of avocado & garlic guacamole topped with poached eggs, perched on two toasted crumpets with hollandaise and siracha sauce, was almost enough to convert me.

In the end however I decided on the crispy fried buttermilk chicken and waffles, topped with a fried egg and a shot of maple syrup. It sounded sensational but in reality I’m afraid to say it slightly missed the mark.  The crispy chicken was a little too crispy in flavour. I love chicken and I love waffles, but not together in this instance.

My friend, on the other hand, went pure and simple with a succulent steak and two fried eggs. It may have been simple but oh so good, the beef was tender and gave the essential flush of colour to the cheeks.

We also ordered two sides to try. First came the Buttermilk Drops, cake donuts with a rum icing and sugar & lime glaze. Oof, these were delicious, but quite dense, a dip of some kind, or perhaps a gooey centre would have enhanced these no end.

Second came the breakfast fries. This was not just a bowl of fries my friends, oh no. It was so much more. The skinny fries arrived as a substantial portion with two fried eggs balanced on top. Crispy edges with a runny centre and smoked ketchup squirted over them. My eyes boggles and my mouth watered. I could have enjoyed this bowl on its own it was that great. The smoked ketchup was a total triumph and my friend and I were close to asking for bowl and spoon each.

What we drank: I am not a believer in hair of the dog, until someone mentions a Bloody Mary and I’m all over it. Dirty Bones however have concocted their own version of this sacred drink. The Dirty Mary, and dirtier and spicier it is. I like my drinks with a bit of a kick and this one certainly blew the cobwebs away and set my nostril hairs a tingling. A perfect start. My companion went for a Bellini and kept them coming.

Go with: Anyone left dangling off your sofa, out of your bed, or in the bath tub the morning after the night before.

Final word: Loved it. Yum. Hangover was cured, almost – though I wasn’t the one who tripped up the stairs on the way out, I have to say. An excellent brunch bottomless or otherwise.

Others like this: Absurd Bird, Ben’s Canteen, Blues Kitchen.


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