What? Dirty Bones is known for its New York comfort food classics and old skool hip hop soundtrack, with three sites already to their name (Shoreditch, High Street Kensington and Kingly Court) they have opened their latest restaurant on Denman Street in Soho.
New? It opened back in April of this year.
Where? Dirty Bones Soho, 14 Denman Street, Soho, W1D 7HJ, www.dirty-bones.com
On the Menu: If you’re into cheat days, then Dirty Bones is the epitome of cheat day meals. You wouldn’t want it every day, but when you do, you want to go all out. You’ll find: chicken with waffles; short rib tacos; cheeseburger dumplings; burgers topped with the likes of pulled beef, black treacle bacon and mac ‘n’ cheese, and a couple of salads thrown in for good measure.
First Impressions: Whilst having the same menu, each Dirty Bones has a completely different feel to it. You’ve got the underground retro feel in Kensington, the buzzy more industrial feel in Kingly Court and the faded pub grandeur in Shoreditch. Soho, in comparison is sleeker, quieter and full of light thanks to the front wall being almost entirely made up of a draw-back window which will be a god send when the sun actually does decide to shine.
The Look: Drawing inspiration from the loft apartments found in Bushwick and Williamsburg, Dirty Bones Soho is all bare bricks and exposed light bulbs. Dark blues, burnt oranges and muted wood are brightened up with a neon pink sign claiming that ‘It was all a dream’ and the loos are hidden behind a door disguised as a book shelf.
What We Ate: An American classic, we started with hot wings, tossed in a fiery Louisiana-style hot sauce and a new Dirty Bones favourite the cheeseburger dumplings. A hybrid of cheese burger and gyoza dumpling, they’re a little bit novel, but oh so good and really do taste just like a cheeseburger.
The classic Mac Daddy was, as ever, on point. If you haven’t come across it yet, let us enlighten you, it’s a brisket and dry aged steak burger topped with pulled beef short rib, mac ‘n’ cheese and burnt onion and ale BBQ sauce. The Slow ‘n’ Low Ribs however weren’t up to the same standard, yes the Dr. Pepper, burnt onion and ale BBQ sauce that coated them was sticky, with a smoky caramel-ness to it, but the ribs were overly fatty, to the point where it felt like it was just slabs of fat rather than meat. It was a similar story for the chips, the cheesy truffle fries were wonderful, thin, crisp fries smothered in cheese sauce, cheddar, aged parmesan and white truffle oil. On the other hand, you had the crispy lamb fries. The fries were coated with sweet miso, jalapenos and crispy lamb – the portion could have been a main alone it was so big and the chips were dry. The crispy lamb was good, if I could I would order it alone as a snack with a couple of cocktails.
Finish with the peanut butter cookie cup, a sundae of sorts made up from salted peanut butter gelato, caramelised chocolate ganache (which we could have done with more of) and dark chocolate cookie chunks with honey nut brittle -that is, if you can find the space of course.
What We Drank: It might have been Monday but that didn’t stop us from ordering the Mezcal Old Fashioned, short and strong it’s made from Montelobos mezcal, agave syrup, Angostura bitters and orange bitters. In Pornstar Martini style, the Honeysuckle Sidekick made from El Jimador Blanco tequila, agave and melon, is served with a shot of pale ale.
Go With: Given its central location it makes it easy to get to when you’re planning to get together a big group of friends. It’s casual, fun and affordable, so ticks all the right boxes.
Final Word: We’re big fans of Dirty Bones and we know how good they can be, sort out the ribs and chips and it would have matched our previous visits.
Dirty Bones Soho: 14 Denman Street, Soho, W1D 7HJ
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