What? With eight restaurants on the ground floor serving everything from French quiches and poke bowls to New York style bagels and Italian dishes, Lutyens Grill, is The Ned’s American grill restaurant.

New? Lutyens Grill opened with The Ned last year, but until recently it was only for Ned’s Club members and hotel guests. Back in February they opened it up to the public meaning that all eight of the restaurants on the ground floor are now open to the public. However, if you are one of Ned’s Club members, then you can still find solace from us, the teeming hordes, as the restaurant on the roof is only for you.

Where? Set away from the main space, you’ll find Lutyens Grill in a private room that was once used as the Bank Manager’s office.
Lutyens Grill: The Ned, 27 Poultry, www.thened.com

On the Menu: As a classic grill restaurant, Lutyens Grill’s menu revolves around cuts from the British isles including breeds such as Black Angus, Dexter and Blue Grey, as well as prime cuts from around the world like Australian Wagyu and USDA Prime. Accompanying the steaks are a handful of fish dishes: wild salmon, halibut, native lobster and Dover sole; a couple of salads (if you really do go to a grill restaurant and want a salad) and starters such as  shrimp cocktail, Lutyens steak tartare and cauliflower, pecorino and black truffle soup. There’s also a carving trolley serving different daily dishes, had we chosen from this, then Friday’s offering is a Var salmon en croute.

Look: Formerly the Bank Manager’s office, Lutyens Grill is reserved and polished. With its wooden panelled walls, painted folding screens, green leather chairs and tables dressed with white table cloths, it could run the risk of being stuffy, but it isn’t, it’s charming, rather like eating in an old gentlemen’s club or library.

What We Ate: We began with half a dozen fresh Jersey Rock oysters, beautifully fresh and salty which didn’t need any dressing to zip them up. Next up were buttery, thin slices of hay smoked venison carpaccio, served with peppery, pungent horseradish and bright beetroot.

The steak, Shorthorn sirloin, had been aged for 36 days (the menu states how long all the British cuts have been aged for), giving it time to become tender and full of flavour which paired perfectly with the beurre blanc sauce. The sides held their own too, having recently visited CUT 45 Park Lane, which arguably wins the steak race by a smidge, Lutyens Grill is top of the class when it comes to sides. Dauphinoise potatoes were excellent with plenty of cheese and garlic and creamed spinach was equally good.

I have to confess, we didn’t make it to pudding. We settled on Old Fashioneds instead, but were we to order, then the Chocolate Nemesis with passion fruit sorbet would have met its own nemesis, in the form of my appetite, clearly that was its lucky day.

What We Drank: We left our wine choices in the hands of the sommelier, who enthusiastically talked us through each wine, you can’t help but feel passionate and enthused by the wines when someone speaks so animatedly about them. To accompany the oysters was a glass of 2015, Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey ‘Clos Rochette’ and for the steaks we had a glass of Pinot Noir, Cycles Gladiator and a Tuscan Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, La Braccesca.

 

Go With: Take your a friend/date/colleague/parent, have a couple of Champagnes, order steak and embrace the decadent, old school members club atmosphere.

Final Word: Visiting on a Thursday night before Good Friday was not the time to see The Ned at it’s finest. Granted it is always busy, but I was quite glad that we were in a private dining room, away from the hordes outside who serenaded our dinner with the sound of glass smashing and drunken slurs. There, inside Lutyens Grill, there was still an old school, charming air about the place, with excellent service and food to match.

Like This? Try These: CUT at 45 Park Lane, Kettner’s Townhouse, M Restaurant 

Lutyens Grill: The Ned, 27 Poultry,
www.thened.com


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