What? Standing on the corner of Savile Row, Sartoria (meaning ‘tailor’ in Italian) is part of restaurant super group D&D London who now have over 30 restaurants across London, Leeds, Paris, New York and Tokyo. It’s also arguably my favourite D&D restaurant with Francesco Mazzei as Chef Patron, so when they announced that they were starting a new Saturday brunch I knew that I had to visit.
New? Sartoria isn’t but the new brunch launched in the middle of March.
Where? Sat on the corner of Savile Row, you’ll find Sartoria at: 20 Savile Row, Mayfair, W1S, www.sartoria-restaurant.co.uk
The Look: Just like the rest of the street, Sartoria is tailored to its Mayfair diners. The copper coloured bar with burnt orange and floral chairs gives way to a large dining room with crescent booths, sage green banquettes and cream and toffee tones. Running the length of the restaurant is a small outdoor terrace which handily is shaded so you can sit out there without feeling like you are melting onto the concrete.
On the Menu: Served from 11am on Saturdays, the succinct brunch menu puts Italian twists on classic dishes. Baked eggs are served with spicy tomato, ‘nduja sauce and crostini and rather than the full English you’ll find the Italian Job. You can have eggs anyway and sides include pancetta and big, herby sausages… (you try finding a way to describe them that doesn’t sound like an innuendo). It’s not vegan, it’s not gluten free and you won’t get your five-a-day served to you in a shot, but you know what, who cares?
What We Ate: We began with the most gloriously golden, rich spaghetti carbonara topped with an oozy egg yolk and dotted with salty chunks of pancetta, it made all previous carbonara we had had look anaemic, it was excellent. For something a little lighter, there’s a very pretty dish of brown and white crab, with peppery pickled radish, pureed avocado and a light lemon mayonnaise.
Not surprisingly my friend, a full English fiend, went for The Italian Job ‘intrigued’ by the grilled polenta and then claimed it was one of the best faux full English breakfasts he had had. Bigger than many you’d find in a greasy joint, fried eggs were joined by sweet roasted tomatoes, slices of pancetta, grilled polenta, avocado and the best meaty Tuscan sausages, so good that we ordered extra.
Out other choice was equally good, although luckily not as big, a golden saffron risotto cake topped with a soft-boiled egg, caviar and earthy wild mushrooms. We added a side of smoked salmon out of gluttony, at £6 it isn’t the cheapest, but you do get a hefty portion.
We finished with a delicate tiramisu which my friend proclaimed was the best tiramisu he had, had and he eats a lot (and I mean a lot) of tiramisu. The cake of the day was a dense, fudgy chocolate aubergine cake served with Chantilly cream and berries.
What We Drank: Being the first hot day we moved away from the cocktails and went straight for the white wine, choosing the Vermignon, Tenuta Lenzini a Vermentino -Sauvignon.
Go With: You’ve woken up on a Saturday morning, you’re a little hungover, you’re in need of looking after, something decadent to start the weekend, somewhere you can read the paper over a plate of eggs, but rather than drinking coffee to start, you begin with a crisp glass of rosé before ending with a double espresso. Whoever you can imagine doing that with, that’s who you need to take.
Final Word: This isn’t your average every weekend brunch, but then again Sartoria isn’t your average neighbourhood restaurant. It was excellent.
Sartoria: 20 Savile Row, Mayfair, W1S