We Review: Wright Brothers Battersea

By a woman smiling holding a drink in black and white Emily Gray |
23rd January 2018

Wright Brothers Battersea

What? With four restaurants north of the Thames, the Wright Brothers have decided to make the leap over the river to open their fifth restaurant in Battersea. South Londoners, you no longer have to make that perilous journey for oysters – it’s time to rejoice.

New? Yes, it opened just in time for Christmas last year.

Where? Making its home in the new Circus West Village you’ll find Wright Brothers down by the Thames in Battersea.
26 Circus West Village, Battersea Power Station, SW8 4NN, www.thewrightbrothers.co.uk

On the Menu: The first thing about the menu is that some of the specials, aren’t that special. Or at least that’s what we were told by our waitress. We came to the conclusion she might not be the best sales person. The main menu however includes the likes of charcoal grilled wild red Argentinian prawns; Var salmon sashimi, kizami wasabi and ponzu; Scottish halibut fillet, pancetta, kale and paprika butter; ribeye steak and black pepper Devon cock crab with almonds and basil.

The Look: Designed by Macaulay Sinclair, the restaurant is contemporary and minimalistic with marble counter tops, sleek black lines and bold, industrial pendant lighting. There’s a nautical feel to it with wooden panelling, touches of copper and illustrations of crab claws and an element of theatre.

What We Ate: We started with plump seared scallops dressed in an earthy, truffled artichoke sauce, simple but effective. There was an equally good sea bass ceviche topped with whipped avocado and served with plantain crisps.

We say the waitress wasn’t necessarily good at sales and yet we both chose dishes from the specials board. After quite the wait, either our fish was so fresh that it was being caught at that moment or they had forgotten us, our main courses arrived. There was a particularly good dish of flaky cod with saffron butter beans and chunks of chorizo. Despite being more warm than hot, it was still a hearty meal for a cold January night. Dover Sole arrived whole, but alone, so we ordered tender stem broccoli which we dipped in a sesame seed dressing and a dish of roasted (slightly underdone) sprouts with excellent rich, buttery chestnuts.

To finish we kept it classic, a chocolate fondant. The glorious chocolate molten oozed out to meet the sweet honeycomb ice cream. You can’t beat them.

What We Drank: We started with cocktails, naturally. The restaurant is besides water, admittedly just the Thames, so with a lot of imagination and the tropical Aged Rum Punch you can pretend you’re in the Caribbean…as I say a lot of imagination.  For something richer and smokier try the Czech Mate made from Woodford Reserve bourbon, Becherovka (herbal bitters), merlot and maple syrup. We followed this with a bottle of P.G.R Black Label, Yealands Estate, Pinot Gris, recommended to us by the sommelier and now recommended to you by us.

Go With: It helps if you’re a fan of seafood, obviously. That said with more emphasis on meat at this restaurant, it’s not a prerequisite. Take a date and try and get a seat by the window for views over the Thames.

Final Word: At the start, all restaurants are finding their feet, it could explain why despite seeing so many members of staff the service still felt a little slow and clunky, that said everyone was wonderfully accommodating but unfortunately it just felt if we had been forgotten sometimes.

Like This? Try These: Bentley’s, Wright Brothers Soho, Randall & Aubin

Wright Brothers Battersea: 26 Circus West Village, Battersea Power Station, SW8 4NN
www.thewrightbrothers.co.uk

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