Is This Unsuspecting Cottage The UK’s Next Michelin Star?
You could easily drive past Auberge du Lac without realising it. Tucked away on the Brocket Hall Estate in Welwyn (Hertfordshire), the tiny cottage is home to one of the best dining experiences this editor’s been to in a while. Recently reopening after a three-year hiatus, we took the hour-long train trip from London Paddington to check it out – here’s what we thought…
What sets it apart
From the front, Auberge du Lac – which translates to ‘Lake Inn’ – looks like the kind of quaint cottage you’d expect to find in a storybook. From the back, however, it’s a different story, with sweeping views across the breathtaking Brocket Estate. And while the restaurant’s interior design is far from elaborate, or even notable, it underscores what seems to be the restaurant’s philosophy: let the food speak for itself.
With two AA Rosettes to its name and Head Chef John Barber (formerly of the Mandarin Oriental in Knightsbridge) at the helm, it didn’t take long to wonder whether Auberge du Lac is on track for the next coveted culinary accolade – a Michelin Star.
It doesn’t take long into the meal before you wonder whether Auberge du Lac is on track for the next coveted culinary accolade – a Michelin Star.
Plus, unlike most fine dining restaurants, you can also opt to stay the night at the nearby Melbourne Lodge on the same estate. Rather than having to organise a designated driver, or make your way back home after a long dinner, staff will simply drop you back at your room, thanks to a handy golf buggy – can every restaurant do this?
Our experience
On arrival, we were taken through the cottage and down a flight of stairs which opened out into the restaurant overlooking the picturesque lake, just as the sun was starting to set. You can either sit inside or, if the weather permits, have your meal alfresco.
We started with a glass of champagne and a delicately arranged welcome snack featuring duck leg confit bonbons and rich tomato-flavoured bites.
As we tucked into the pre-dinner course, an older couple arrived at the table next to us and it became quickly apparent that they were regulars – a testament to the experience for those who aren’t there as press…
What we ordered
Our waiter recommended we go for the seven-course tasting menu – a surefire way to ensure we were able to try all of Auberge du Lac’s highlights, with the wine flight to match. We began with a serving of bread and seasonal butter, which doesn’t sound special, but the bread was so flavourful it was like biting into an airy, melt-in-your-mouth croissant.
One of the courses I was most excited for was the beef tartare, with aged Aberdeen Angus beef fillet, chive mayonnaise, nasturiums, confit egg yolk, and seeded crackers to pair. In my experience, tartare can fall into the ‘hit and miss’ category, although this one was fresh and had plenty of ingredients, all combined in a well-sized portion. The presentation was also immaculate – no easy feat for a dish of raw meat – which really took this dish to another level.
The hero course, though, had to be the fresh BBQ Monkfish tail, served with pickled cucumber, caviar, and surrounded by a rich and umami roasted bone velouté reminiscent of bisque. Our waiter revealed that he is now in the habit of offering guests spoons to slurp up the final bits of the broth. It’s that good. The seafood dish was paired with a glass of Avondale Jonty’s Ducks Pekin White, Paarl – a soft and toasty South African white wine (a standout bottle I’ll be noting for future).
Our waiter revealed he was used to offering guests spoons to slurp up the final bits of the broth.
Another duck course followed, teamed with a honey glaze, peach and radish salad, and duck jus which was theatrically poured over the dish as it was served.
Thankfully, the dessert courses were light and refreshing. We started with an iced Pina Colada consisting of coconut sorbet, tropical brunoise, Malibu gel, and pineapple foam, which served as an ’80s-inspired palette cleanser. Then came the zesty Greek yoghurt parfait with lemon curd crafted into a sphere, citrus sorbet, Knebworth honey and lemon sorrel. As a chocolate fan, fruity finales never quite feel the same to end a meal, but I think this made the difference between feeling full versus bloated.
Verdict
If you’re looking for a foodie escape from London (without committing to a prolonged day trip), that offers fabulous fine dining and a truly spectacular setting, make a note of Auberge du Lac. The 7-course tasting menu will set you back £95, with an additional £50 wine flight option. And sure, it’s not your everyday meal, but for this quality of fine dining, it’s worth every penny in this editor’s book, especially if it’s a special occasion, or you just fancy treating yourself.
For more information on Auberge du Lac and to make a booking at the restaurant (why not book into Melbourne Lodge while you’re there?), visit brocket-hall.co.uk.
