“I’m A Food Writer & These Are The Dishes I Would Travel Across London For”

French onion soup

Josephine

French onion soup is potentially one of the world’s greatest pleasures. It is the pinnacle of indulgence, the definition of gastronomically “rich”. In my tried and tested FOS opinion, there is none better (in London) than at Josephine. While I am partial to the Fulham Road location, Marylebone will also do just fine, as this cult favourite does not stray far from its own tradition.

It is large, heavy, thick and rich, with each spoonful containing the perfect ratio of bread to cheese to onion to broth right until the very bitter end. While you might think it is a good idea to share one before dinner, I recommend not. Whilst you might spare an upset tummy, in the process of a split, you risk petty eye raises and furrowed brows in the inevitable instance of someone stealing the “best bits”. Two for the table, split a main, everyone goes home happy.

Where: Marylebone & Chelsea
Website: www.josephinebistro.com

Lamb kleftiko

Andy’s Greek Taverna

Another low flyer in the London scene is Andy’s Greek Taverna, my more than tried and tested Greek spot up in Camden. I would travel for the aura that Andy’s exudes in general, one of humble, unassuming and friendly colours, but the Kleftiko will act as a standout.

Tender lamb, falling off the bone at the touch of a silver prong, melting into a pool of roasting juice and spices, which are also home to soft, fluffy potatoes. All alongside a basket of pita, which, once the trio of dips has gone, acts as a vessel to mop up the remains.

Where: 23 Pratt St., London NW1 0BG
Website: www.andystaverna.com

Fish sauce chicken wings

Smoking Goat

Perhaps this is predictable, but the fish sauce chicken wings at Smoking Goat are not only a top 5 dish in London, but without a doubt the best chicken wings I have ever had. Now, I am not much of a chicken wing girl. I don’t mind mess or getting my hands dirty in the process of eating, but the hesitation which I harbour in the act of biting a chicken wing, the twinge of anxiety at perhaps crunching down on cartilage, repels me from ordering them. But the eagerness, the fervour, the raw animalistic gravitation I feel toward these wings upon even getting off at Shoreditch High Street is bordering on embarrassing.

That being said, I am not alone. For whenever I proclaim my favouritism for Smoking Goat, I am often met with this: “How many orders of wings do you get?” I once told someone, “two”, and was met with one of the dirtiest looks I have ever received… “I get five,” he said. Shut me right up.

Where: 64 Shoreditch High St, London E1 6JJ
Website: www.smokinggoatbar.com

Spicy pork Xiao Long Bao

Beijing Dumplings

I’ve probably written this somewhere before, but I’ll never stop talking about Beijing Dumpling. I know. It is a place that I should definitely stop talking about for fear of longer queues and steeper prices. But it would be an objective lie if I claimed that I had written a list of all my favourite dishes in London and the Xiao Long Bao from Beijing Dumpling was not on that list.

It is spicy, the wrappers are just thin enough, nearly bursting at the bottom, the meat is soupy, the soup is meaty, and they wrap you up like a warm hug on a cold day. Not that it has to be a cold day to justify these. These — they are timeless.

Where: 23 Lisle St, London WC2H 7BA:

Classic horenso salad

Chisou

It may not look like much, or perhaps this opinion was sake-induced, but this little flower-like salad is amongst my favourites in London. A flat layer of spinach lightly drizzled with a yuzu dressing meets a generous dollop of spicy prawns. On second thought, this was definitely not sake-induced, although Chisou’s glorious Sake list lays a red carpet for the food to strut down.

I could’ve eaten a pound of that shrimp, may Chisou live in quiet glory.

Where: knightsbridge & mayfair
Website: www.chisourestaurant.com

Cheeseburger

Acre

In all honesty, I was not expecting the meal that I had at Acre when I initially sat down, but it presented itself in front of me as one of my favourite culinary experiences of the year. Whilst the crab tagiolini was golden and buttery, so much so that I couldn’t really finish it. The burger alongside the prawn toast was outstanding.

The burger was simple, a double smash with American cheese and heavy on the sauce. I loved most that it wasn’t over zhuzhed but created an unreplicatable singularity in its addition of pickled chillies. Now, I know anyone can make pickled chillies, these are unreplicatable because they are magnificent, perfect, brava, brava, brava.

Where: 60 Golborne Rd, London W10 5PR
Website: www.acre-london.com

Mixed Kirchat

Harar Restaurant

I went to Harar for the first time, on a whim, in a group of four people. Not only did I think this was one of the best, most affordable meals in the city, but the easiest order you could possibly make. I am no expert on Ethiopian food, in fact I am uneducated, which means that ordering a mixed Kirchat (£57) for four took that pressure off of yous. It also meant that one order lead to 8 different dishes being passed around and taste tested. While I can’t tell you which one was my favourite, for both lack of deciding and lack of knowing what it was called, I can tell you you’ll leave just £20 poorer (if you have some drinks, that is) with a doggy bag and a spot up your sleeve that’s serving £3 beers alongside some of the best food in London.

Where: 49 S Lambeth Rd, London SW8 1RH
Website: www.hararrestaurant.co.uk

Mountain tofu

Khao Bird

How many times can I write about that tofu at Khao Bird? I’ll keep pushing it, probably until I have a better tofu… mission impossible.

The long story short is that I can’t get over it. It was like what you’d want biting into fried butter to be, minus the sickly realities of that act. It’s a pocket of creamy, saucy goodness encased in the neatest, cleanest fry, doused in a roast chilli jam just thick enough not to spoil the crunch of the fry, maintaining that protective cloak for the Burmese tofu. This is what all tofu should be like; it is the conversion dish, the vegan dish to end all vegan dishes, or, rather, the vegan dish to inspire all vegan dishes.

Where: 24 Brewer Street, Soho, London
Website: www.khaobird.com

Full English

Regency Cafe

Self explanatory, this one. Regency Cafe’s full English is probably the most quintessential in all of the city. 1 egg, 2 bacon, sausage, beans, toast, coffee, £9.99, pinch me. I’m justifying telling you this because it’s already the most well-known breakfast in London, at least I think it is.

It is your classic greasy spoon, a place you should not leave London without having taken your spot in its line. And for all those who shy away from the feigned black pudding, be a big kid, chuck some beans on and give it a go.

Where: 17-19 Regency St, London SW1P 4BY
Website: www.regencycafe.co.uk

Chicken laksa

Phat Phuc

Bowls of brothy noodles are quite divisive dishes, in my eyes. It seems like the sharers of the world veer away from it whilst those who love a singular bowl of something good to themselves find it a comfort. Me? Not my favourite! But Phat Phuc somehow defies all Pho boundaries. For one, a trip to Phat Phuc is a sunny day escapade. I know, Pho in the sun, blasphemous. But sitting in that courtyard, poor postured over a hot metal table while I house down a bowl of chicken laksa, this, to me, screams summer’s day. Don’t knock it til you try it.

Where: The Courtyard, 151 Sydney St, London SW3 6NT
Website: www.phatphucnoodlebar.co.uk

Oysters

The Cow

The sheer experience of having oysters at The Cow is not only something I have and will travel across London for, it is something I have and will travel across the country for.

The Cow has been a consistent part of my experience in the UK since I was in university in Scotland; it is a comfort, an indulgence, a pleasure. Sat outside having scored the best seats in (or out of) the house while downing glasses of chilled white or, more aptly, Guinness is a delight in itself, but with a round of oysters shucked right there behind the bar, it is a luxury.

Where: 89 Westbourne Park Rd, London W2 5QH
Website: www.thecowlondon.com

Roti

Tamila

I went to the new location of Tamila the other day and was tucked into one of their teenie tiny booths on the edge of the wall. What could have been a very uncomfortable seating experience was actually a very pleasant and intimate affair, made better not just by paneer or gunpowder margaritas or coconut rice or fiery king prawns, but by all this wrapped up in a beautiful, soft, pillowy bow of roti.

This is everything you expect when you crave a bready thing for Indian food but can never quite achieve. It’s just greasy enough, just strong enough, just soft enough. In all it’s simple honor, it is perfect.

Where: Soho, clapham & kings cross
Website: www.tamila.uk

Welsh rarebit

The Pelican

I wonder how much organic press the Public House group can get? Here I am to add to it, not for the first time, certainly not for the last.

The Pelican is already known for sublime food, acting as one of the great gastro pubs of London. Yes, they have executed their mission gloriously, but it is in one dish where I think The Pelican’s value is truly translated: the humble Welsh Rarebit. It is savoury, it is thick, it is deep and mustardy and brown. It is a perfect bar snack, an elevated cheese on toast, a rainy day in splendour.

Where: 45 All Saints Rd, London W11 1HE
Website: www.thepelicanw11.com

Lucky’s hot chicken sandwich

Mikkeller

What’s better than a fried chicken sandwich? A fried chicken sandwich at the bar.

Mikkeller has been serving Friend chicken from Lucky’s hot chicken for as long as I’ve been a regular on Exmouth Market, constantly, I am manifesting that we end up in the bar for a pint and a cheeky spicy chicken sandwich. The bread is reminiscent of Texas toast, the chicken is crispy and juicy, the sauce is spicy and smooth, the slaw gives solace to the heat. It is my everything, it is what all chicken sandwiches should be: in the presence of drunk people.

Where: 37-39 Exmouth Market, London EC1R 4QL
Website: www.mikkellerbrewpublondon.com