Chefs have always been held in special regard in London – romanticised, eulogised, creative forces that break boundaries. And there’s never been a more diverse, exciting crop of young chefs ready to take the culinary scene to new heights. From the new crop of Michelin-starred restauranteurs to passion project driving forces, here are 10 chefs in London at the forefront of its changing scene. 

Abby Lee

Current role: Chef and founder at Mambow

Previously: Pasha Ristorante in Puglia; Mambow Pop-up

Why are they on the list? Abby Lee is the driving force behind Mambow, a strong contender for our favourite new opening of 2023. Her early culinary background was in Italian cuisine, but when it came to opening her own restaurant she was inspired by the Malaysian cooking she knew visiting family while growing up. Mambow built up a passionate cult following at a temporary location in Peckham market, before opening a permanent spot in Clapton.

78 Lower Clapton Rd, Lower Clapton, London E5 0RN
website: www.mambow.co.uk

Lorcan Spiteri

Current role: Head Chef at Caravel

Previously: Quo Vadis, Bruno

Why are they on the list? Spiteri might come from culinary royalty – his dad was one of the founding partners of St. John and Session Arts Club – but his success is very much his own. Rather than go into the business side, he went into the kitchen, culminating in the opening of Caravel with his brother Fin. A stint at Quo Vadis with Jeremy Lee was foundational, and Caravel has surely set the standard for barge dining.

172 Shepherdess Walk, London N1 7JL
website: www.caravelrestaurant.com

Ayo Adeyemi

Current role: Executive Chef at Akoko

Previously: Tippling Club in Singapore

Why are they on the list? After stints working under Heston Blumenthal and Jason Atherton, Adeyemi moved to Singapore to become executive chef of The Tippling Club, a mainstay in the Top 50 lists in Asia and around the world. Akoko founder Aji Akokomi brought him back to the UK with the Executive Chef role, taking over from Theo Clench, and he was taken the restaurant to new heights. He received his first Michelin star earlier this year, and was named Chef to Watch at the National Restaurant Awards. We’re big fans, and gave Akoko a glowing review last year.

He received his first Michelin star earlier this year, and was named Chef to Watch at the National Restaurant Awards

where: 21 Berners St, London W1T 3LP
website: www.akoko.co.uk

Anna Søgaard

Current role: Co-founder of Suppher

Previously: Bistro Freddie; Erst

Why are they on the list? After a plaudit-laden stint at Erst in Manchester as sous chef, Danish-American Søgaard made the move to London as Head Chef of new Shoreditch restaurant Bistro Freddie, quickly establishing it as a must-visit. Since leaving in June we’re still awaiting news of her next permanent role – and will be booking in as soon as it’s announced. Most recently, she announced a one-night residency at Ploussard in London and continues to co-run the female-led supper club Suppher.

Luke Hearne

Current role: Head Chef at Lita’s

Previously: Corrigan’s Mayfair

Why are they on the list? Ahearne is following in the footsteps of Richard Corrigan, Clare Smyth and Anna Haugh as Irish Chefs making waves in London. After a stint at Corrigan’s Mayfair, he went solo with the neighbourhood bistro Lita’s, which has been a smash hit since launching in March earlier this year. Featuring Spanish delicacies, art-laden walls and a casual luxury vibe, it already feels like a London mainstay.

where: 7-9 Paddington St, London W1U 5QH
website: www.litamarylebone.com

Adejoké Bakare

Current role: Head Chef and Founder at Chishuru Fitzrovia

Previously: Chishuru Brixton

Why are they on the list? Chishuru is one of the best stories to come out of London’s dining scene in recent years. With a West African menu that blends age-old recipes with modern flavour Bakare has made waves, becoming the UK’s first Black woman to receive a Michelin star. She was also named the Chef of the Year at the National Restaurant Awards, and we expect Bakare and Chishuru to go from strength to strength.

where: 3 Great Titchfield St., London W1W 8AX
website: www.chishuru.com

Joe Laker

Current role: Chef Director at Counter 71

Previously: Fenn; Anglo

Why are they on the list? Counter 71 was one of the boldest openings of 2023 – a 16-seat chef’s table, no waiters, and a 16-course tasting menu only, with two seatings a night. Delicious and brilliantly received, we still feel it’s a little underrated. Laker is all about maximising the strength of British produce that can be under-utilised all too often, implementing techniques that bring forward the quality of the ingredients.

Delicious and brilliantly received, we still feel it’s a little underrated

where: 71 Nile St, London N1 7RD
website: www.counter71.co.uk

Rose Gabbertas

Current: Pastry Chef at Lyle’s

Previously: St. John’s

Why are they on the list? The only Pastry Chef on our list, Gabbertas is currently baking up a storm at Lyle’s, having previously been at St. John’s in Smithfield – not a bad start to a career. On the side, she studies a masters in Anthropology of Food at SOAS, so presumably, she’ll soon uncover a brand new way to bake cakes. When she does, we’ll be there.

On the side, she studies a masters in Anthropology of Food at SOAS, so presumably, she’ll soon uncover a brand new way to bake cakes

where: Tea Building, 56 Shoreditch High St, London E1 6JJ
website: www.lyleslondon.com

Simon Ulph

Current: Executive Chef at MICHAEL CAINES at The Stafford

Previously: Northcote

Why are they on the list? Simon Ulph now leads the kitchen at MICHAEL CAINES at The Stafford, bringing years of close collaboration with Michael Caines into a London setting. Formerly head chef at Lympstone Manor, Ulph’s cooking is rooted in precision and seasonality, translating Caines’ signature style into refined, produce-led menus that feel confident, composed and extraordinarily stylish.

where: 16-18 St James’s Pl, London SW1A 1NJ
website: www.thestaffordlondon.co.uk

Max Coen

Current: Head Chef at Dorian

Previously: Ikoyi; Kitchen Table

Why are they on the list? Dorian has become a bit of a celeb favourite, with everyone from Brooklyn Beckham to Emma Raducanu big fans of the restaurant. Sampling the best British produce with modern techniques, Coen has a track record to match any Chef in the world – as well as stints at Ikoyi and Kitchen Table in London, he also worked at the three-Michelin Studio Frantzen in Stockholm. Like Akoko and Chishuru, it received its first Michelin star earlier this year, and Coen looks like he’s only getting started.

where: 105, 107 Talbot Rd, London W11 2AT
website: www.dorianrestaurant.com

Jackson Boxer

Currently: Head Chef at Henri, Orasay, Brunswick House

Previously: St. Leonards

Why are they on the list? You know you’re doing well as a Chef when a new opening uses your name as a promotional tool. That’s exactly what happened with Henri, Jackson Boxer’s latest venture, a newly imagined Parisian Bistro in the heart of London. It marks a continuation of a winning run for Boxer, whose seafood-focused Orasay in Notting Hill has already received plenty of plaudits. So far, he hasn’t taken a wrong step.

where: 14, 15 Henrietta St, London WC2E 8QH
website: www.coventgarden.london


Want to receive more great articles like this every day? Join our daily email now