A Local’s Guide On What To Eat, See & Do In Mumbai
Anyone who has lived in Mumbai loves to romanticise the city. “Bombay is an emotion,” we say in one breath while cursing the traffic with the next. For me, it’s the city that has watched me grow up. From football practice in Oval Maidan after school to all-nighters at Marine Drive in college to eventually moving into my first flat in Bandra – some of my most endearing memories have been in Mumbai. And no matter how many times I say goodbye to the city, each time I return it reminds me why it’s so hard to leave. What can I say – it’s not just Bollywood, we’re all hopeless romantics here.
If a trip to Mumbai has been on your bucket list for a while, then good news folks, this is the best time of the year to visit. India’s commercial capital cools down during the winter months from November to January, and while it’s hardly sweater weather, the city is at its most vibrant with festival season in full swing between Diwali and New Year’s.
The City
Mumbai is a lot of things packed into one – the finance hub of India, the fashion capital, foodie paradise…so naturally, there’s a lot to do here. Walk along the streets of Colaba to take in the art deco, colonial-era buildings, the busy shopping streets and the majestic Gateway of India, drive along Marine Drive and enjoy the view of the Arabian Sea at sunset, navigate through the flower shops at Dadar market or join the crowds at Mannat, the residence of Bollywood mogul Shah Rukh Khan for a glimpse of the star – there’s a lot you can pack into a stay in Mumbai.
Often still referred to as Bombay, it is also a city where you can be easily overwhelmed, especially if you’re visiting for the first time. Extreme wealth lives alongside extreme poverty, with skyscrapers looming over slums and the constant movement of the city never really slowing down until the wee hours of the morning – and even then you’ll find Mumbai awake and ready for the day before the sun rises. Go with an open mind, embrace the chaos and trust your instincts – Mumbai is an adventure.
Mumbai is a lot of things packed into one – the finance hub of India, the fashion capital, foodie paradise…
Things to do
Visit some of India’s designer boutiques
If you’re lucky enough to be invited to an Indian wedding (or you’re planning to crash one) and you’re wondering what to wear – Mumbai has lots of shopping options for every budget. If you want to splurge, the city is home to the flagship stores of some of India’s most prolific designers.
The interiors of some of these stores are as exquisite as the clothes themselves.
The interiors of some of these stores are as exquisite as the clothes themselves – Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s store in Horniman Circle is filled with treasures, chandeliers and art collected by the designer himself, and it’s worth planning your whole day around a visit to see the exquisite collections on display and try on a sari or lehenga.
Watch a play or concert
The newest and shiniest cultural space in Mumbai is the Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre (NMACC) which hosts regular cultural events, gigs and exhibitions. (The opening ceremony held last year had everyone from Bollywood’s brightest to Tom Holland, Zendaya and Gigi Hadid in attendance).
The Royal Opera House (“India’s only serving opera house”, as declared on the website) is a stunning baroque building where you can watch plays and concerts too. Another legendary institution in Mumbai is the National Centre for the Performing Arts (NCPA) which is one of India’s oldest performance venues – they hold an incredible Christmas concert every year.
Do a street food tour (if you can handle it…)
Mumbai has an abundance of incredible street food from the iconic Bombay Sandwich that you’ll find the finance bros in SoBo (that’s South Bombay for you) mingling over to piping hot cutting chai that appears magically at every street corner at about 5 pm (best enjoyed with a Parle-G biscuit). And you can’t leave without sinking your teeth into Mumbai’s much-loved vada pav. If you’re really keen to eat where the locals eat, No Footprints does a mean 8-course street food tour that can take you from kebabs to Irani chai.
Mohammadi Ali is a fabulous spot to go to for a late-night food crawl.
Mohammadi Ali is a fabulous street to go to for a late-night food crawl, or just walk around the bylanes of Colaba and try kebabs and rolls from Gokul or Bademiya – be prepared to wait in Mumbai’s version of a queue for these ones.
Take a boat or ferry ride
Mumbai’s coastline is worth exploring, especially if you’re keen to escape the traffic for a while. There are a number of yachts and sailboats available to book that can take you on beautiful sunset cruises. You can even do day trips via ferry to the neighbouring Manori or Alibaug beaches for a little downtime away from the busy city. If you’re lucky you might even spot dolphins on your way.
Mumbai’s coastline is worth exploring, especially if you’re keen to escape the traffic for a while.
Visit an art gallery
Mumbai’s art scene is thriving, whether you’re looking for something traditional or contemporary. Art and Charlie is a cool new art gallery in Bandra which hosts artists from across South Asia and has regular screenings, talks and book readings.
Colaba’s historic Jehangir Art Gallery has been around since 1952 and is one of the city’s oldest art spaces. If you’re looking for a full cultural immersion, visit the city in January and attend the Kala Ghoda Festival – Asia’s largest multidisciplinary street art festival that brings together art, theatre, music, dance, literature and more at iconic venues across Mumbai from January 25th to February 2nd, 2025 this year.
Go street shopping and strike a bargain
For great bargains on some pretty cool Indian and international fashion, head to Colaba Causeway or Bandra’s Hill Road where you can buy everything from embellished traditional juttis, bags and jewellery to quality high street dupes (look out for that one man muttering “Mango, Zara, Mango, Zara” on the street).
Shopping in Hill Road before Christmas is a special treat, and you’ll find the cutest handmade decorations, trees, wreaths and traditional Indian Christmas sweets in shops everywhere. Don’t be afraid to bargain, although you might have more success if a friend who speaks Marathi or Hindi does it for you – if you’re a foreigner you’ll automatically be charged at least double when you’re shopping on the street.
Colaba Causeway is one long street full of antiques, jewellery, colourful shoes and fabrics – you’ll also find the restaurant and bar Leopold Cafe (made famous by the book Shantaram and also as one of the places targetted during the 2008 Mumbai attacks). It’s worth a visit if you’re curious, but a bit overpriced.
Where to stay
The Taj Mahal Palace
Occupying a stunning spot opposite the Gateway of India, The Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai commands a regal view of the Arabian Sea. One of the city’s most exquisite hotels, the Taj has hosted some illustrious guests from around the world and offers gorgeous sea-facing rooms, lush gardens and a luxurious courtyard with an outdoor pool. It’s also home to one of Mumbai’s poshest restaurants, Wasabi by Morimoto which serves some of the best sushi in town, or head to Golden Dragon for Sichuan and Cantonese food. A stay here also keeps you conveniently close to all of SoBo’s best touristy spots.
website: www.tajhotels.com
The Oberoi
The Oberoi, Mumbai occupies a prime position overlooking the gorgeous Marine Drive, a three-kilometre-long promenade that’s much loved by locals and tourists alike. Expect spacious accommodation and warm hospitality, that’s perfect whether you’re staying for business or leisure. There’s also a swimming pool and fitness centre in case you need some downtime away from the busy Mumbai streets.
The Oberoi, Mumbai occupies a prime position overlooking Marine Drive.
website: www.oberoihotels.com
Abode Boutique Hotel
If you’re not one for 5-stay hotels, Abode is an “anti-chain luxury hotel” that offers an unconventional but plush stay in the heart of Mumbai. With 25 rooms, expect a more homely environment so if you’re looking at a long stay, this makes a great choice. Located in Colaba, the hotel is just a five-minute walk from iconic Mumbai locations like Regal Cinema or Cafe Mondegar.
website: www.abodeboutiquehotels.com
Sofitel Mumbai BKC
If you’re looking for a more central location that gives you better access to both “town” (South Bombay) and the suburbs, a stay in Bandra-Kurla Complex makes the most sense. Rooms are comfortable and offer all the modern amenities you would need, and a highlight here is the spa which offers a fusion of French expertise and Asian tradition. Dine at The Pondicherry Cafe which has a cool Indo-European vibe and serves up an extravagant Sunday brunch.
A highlight here is the spa which offers a fusion of French expertise and Asia tradition.
website: www.sofitel-mumbai-bkc.com
ITC Grand Central
Situated in Lower Parel, close to some of Mumbai’s coolest bars and restaurants, ITC Grand Central stands out with its dome-like structure and design that dates back to the Victorian era. Depending on the room you book, the team will offer you complimentary butler service and exclusive hours at Point of View–the rooftop bar. There’s also a range of cuisines on offer across dining spaces like Shanghai Club, Kebabs and Kurries, and Dublin, the Irish-themed bar.
website: www.marriott.com
Where to eat and drink
Seriously fancy dinner
Offering a 10-course tasting menu is Masque, a first-of-its-kind restaurant in India that focuses on local ingredients. For the past three years consecutively, Masque has won the title of India’s Best Restaurant in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and you can expect some inventive dishes on the menu that explore India’s culinary history.
Offering a 10-course tasting menu is Masque, a first-of-its-kind restaurant in India that focuses on local ingredients.
The menu changes regularly, and so do the cocktails, but expect ingredient-driven dishes from across India where everything from the chillies and chutneys to the cocktails are carefully crafted and presented. This intimate, delicious experience is definitely one worth booking ahead for.
Brunch or dinner with the threat of dancing
Fun, playful and delicious, Bombay Canteen celebrates India’s diverse cuisine with dishes from across the country created with their signature twist.
Think classic dishes, reimagined and made with seasonal ingredients and modern techniques. We’re talking everything from brie topped with a tangy amla preserve and a drizzle of Naga hot honey to buckwheat khichdi, oxtail, marrow uttapam and Chettinad prawns. By the same owners, is O Pedro, a Goan-Portuguese restaurant serving food and vibes that take you straight to the sunshine state – this is a place meant for lingering lunches, buzzing evenings and the best feni cocktails in town.
All-day snacking
If you ever want a really great snack, Swati Snacks is where you go. This legendary no-frills, family-run spot serves delicious chaat, khichdi, pulao, dosas and Indian-style pizza, best washed down with masala chai or filter coffee.
This legendary no-frills, family-run spot serves delicious chaat, khichdi, pulao, dosas and Indian-style pizza.
Old but gold
Kyani & Co. is a heritage cafe established in 1904, that serves classic Parsi breakfasts. From buns dripping in butter that are meant to be dipped in piping hot Irani chai to a flavoursome kheema pav, egg burji and chicken cutlet this is where you come to start your day on a great note. Just make sure you don’t hang around for too long after you’ve paid the bill – this is the kind of place that doesn’t appreciate lingering customers. Another much-loved Irani cafe is Brittania which serves a legendary berry pulao, caramel custard and raspberry soda.
Kyani & Co. is an iconic heritage cafe established in 1904, serving classic Parsi breakfasts.
Fun fact: The late owner was a huge fan of the British royal family – so much so that Prince William and Kate Middleton met with him on a visit to India.
Luxe Indian food
If you’d prefer your Indian food paired with a fantastic bill, there are options. Indian Accent is one of the most exclusive restaurants in the city. On the menu you’ll find stunners like green apple pork ribs, ghee roast soya boti, roomati rotis, daulat ki chaat, rose petal chikki, Kashmiri morel pulao and lotus root papdi.
On the menu you’ll find stunners like green apple pork ribs, ghee roast soya boti, roomati rotis and daulat ki chaat.
Fishy favourites
Mumbai is the place to be if you like your seafood, and the options will make your head spin. But a place you can’t go wrong with is Gajalee. This Vile Parle restaurant serves crispy bombil fry, tandoori crab, butter garlic prawns, masala oysters, and even a seafood biryani. Wash your meal down with buttermilk or fresh lime soda and you’re gold.
This Vile Parle restaurant serves crispy bombil fry, tandoori crab, butter garlic prawns, masala oysters and more…
Housed in the plush Vivanta by Taj – President Hotel, Konkan Cafe is a South Indian eatery which specialises in coastal, seafood dishes. The restaurant is designed to look like a “nallukettu” – a typical house in the west and southern coast of India and the menu features standouts like a refreshing sol kadhi, silky neer dosa and fish moilee.
A fun night out
Bandra is one of Mumbai’s buzziest spots for a night out. You can’t go wrong with Monday night karaoke at Soul Fry or head to Bonobo for a late-night techno gig with all the cool kids. Woodside Inn, with locations in Andheri, Bandra and Colaba, is a gastropub that’s a favourite for post-work drinks (don’t miss happy hours from 4 to 8 pm).
For an evening that requires some dressing up, head to AER, a rooftop bar at the Four Seasons which offers panoramic views of the bay and is one of the city’s favourite night-out spots. Designed to resemble the interiors of a yacht, AER has deck-style seating and a cool retractable roof that extends in a matter of minutes so you can enjoy your drinks in the sky even in the monsoon.
Tips
In a breath: Don’t expect to bump into a Bollywood star, avoid travelling by local train at rush hour, be respectful but not overfriendly with strangers, don’t be intimidated into buying things you don’t want (street vendors can be persistent) and try some local food but carry your own bottled water.
A holiday in Mumbai can be just as relaxing or as high octane as you make it.
Mumbai is known to be safe, but like any big city it’s good to stay alert and aware of your surroundings – speaking from personal experience, I’ve found that there is always someone eager to help if you’re ever lost or need something. Most street vendors, restaurants, bars and hotels will all accept card payments, but carry some cash on you so you can pay for rickshaws and taxis if you need to. At the end of the day, a holiday in Mumbai can be just as relaxing or as high octane as you make it – so take your pick, and the city will not disappoint.
