An Honest Review Of Oudh 1722

There are some restaurants that open with a bang. The Impalas and Vespers of the world do not appear without fireworks, thuds, and screams from the public as they itch and claw their way in through any door that might be cracked, gagging for a reservation at London’s shiniest new thing. There are some restaurants that open with more of a whisper, not in need of amplified volume to pronounce themselves supreme. Oudh 1722 is this quiet gold mine.

Despite its generous portions, Oudh 1722 is no doubt chasing Michelin stars, and it is doing so without having to scream, shout or wriggle.
Mallory, Junior Food & Drink Editor

What sets it apart

Chef Aktar Islam has ascended into this London undertaking after garnering two Michelin stars for his Birmingham tasting menu Opheem. That’s all well and good, but what is it that has made him become such a star? This is Awadhi cooking, a cuisine native to Northern India and southern Nepal, one which is characterised by slow cooking in clay pots with vibrant spices and a thoughtful approach that distinguishes itself from easy-to-please takeaway.

Set in an old Victorian townhouse in Borough, Islam’s commitment to fine-dinerising Indian food to the place of silver platters, gliding servers and a posh-special-occasion-date-night charm has been a huge success, with rave reviews coming in from every person who’s found it so far.

What we ordered

The menu is split into seven sections. It begins with Shorba, a traditional broth poured over either lamb or mushrooms, before moving into Naashta, a selection of light bites. I opted for the gol guppa and the chaat. The former arrived as delicate, crisp shells filled with sprouts and potatoes, designed to be topped with jaljeera — a fragrant mint and coriander water — before being eaten in one mouthful. The result was bright, cooling and alive with spice. The chaat couldn’t have been more different, leaning into rich yoghurt and sweet tamarind for something indulgent yet beautifully balanced, with layers of crunch, creaminess and freshness in every bite.

Moving on, the gilawat: a spread disguised as a kebab. I’ve never experienced this consistency in meat, let alone in a kebab. This spicy and fragrant round ball was to be spread over a blankety bread, wrapped into itself and enjoyed in 2, maybe even 1 bite. This may very well be my winner, which is altogether a shock.

This is Indian food specifically made for posh dining rooms and refined flair, for overstaffed floors and reception rooms, for clarified mango chutney margaritas, eccentric garnishes and silver platters

I skipped the further kebab section in favour of a mountain of oxtail biryani from the dum section side by side with a Tandoori chicken Awadh curry. The oxtail acted as a fabulous feat in how to make rice look like the main event. Perhaps it is steep in price at £36, but this is enough to feed four alone, with oxtail meat in abundance and rice piled high upon the plate. A must, I think. And the Tandoori chicken curry was your fix of local Indian flavours, the nostalgic and familiar ones, the comforting and soft ones, layered in complexities and – next to the cauliflower with cashew nuts from the Sabzi section – a reminder of why red sauces are often the favourites.

Perhaps it is steep in price at £36, but this is enough to feed four alone, with oxtail meat in abundance and rice piled high upon the plate.

Verdict

Given Oudh 1722’s older sibling in Birmingham, it is unsurprising to leave this meal feeling as though it was piningly proving itself as worthy of joining London’s scene. Despite its generous portions, Oudh 1722 is no doubt chasing Michelin stars, and it is doing so without having to scream, shout or wriggle. That being said, despite its whisper, Oudh is in no spot of struggle for bookings as I was corralled out as soon as my timer struck two hours.

This is no place for those who associate Indian food with the home, arriving in thick plastic tuppers. This is Indian food specifically made for posh dining rooms and refined flair, for overstaffed floors and reception rooms, for clarified mango chutney margaritas, eccentric garnishes and silver platters. If that’s a bit of you, then Oudh 1722 is your next booking.