The Two-Stop Itinerary Covering All Bases In Bali
Dreaming of laid-back vibes, sandy beaches and sunshine surf? Bali is a destination that ticks the boxes and – handily – hits peak travel season from April through October.
Our No.1 long-haul holiday alternative to Europe in summer, Bali, has an undeniable magic. The sea is beautiful, the people are full of smiles, and the food is next level. That being said, the island is huge, and the traffic is terrible—do not be optimistic; a 1k journey can take 30 minutes.
Visiting is a genuine time investment, and after almost a 24-hour journey from the UK, there’s merit in maximising your locale. We road-tested the ultimate easy two-stop itinerary, split between Canguu and Ulluwatu – combining an elegant private villa with a luxe, full-service hotel for maximum chill. Read on for our top tips and recommendations.
First stop: Canggu
On the South coast of Bali and around an hour’s drive from Denpasar, Canggu (pronounced ‘chang-goo’) is truly idyllic. Narrow streets teeming with mopeds and a vibrant social scene border wide beaches surrounded by rice paddies. But behind all the buzz lies a multitude of incredible villas, an antithesis to the hustle and bustle of local village life. This is a great place to connect – or disconnect – as you please.
Where to stay
Described as an oasis, Umbala The House is a slice of pure heaven. Immaculately decorated, the property comprises five unique suites, open-plan living spaces, a beautiful lawn, and a cleverly designed wraparound swimming pool.
We booked with friends and oh, what a place. Fully staffed, your every wish is catered for in a relaxed style that just feels effortless. Nothing is too much trouble and the team knows the local area inside out, which is especially useful if you are travelling with kids.
Where to eat and drink
The food in the villa is simply divine. From sharing BBQs to sit-down 3-course meals, poke bowl lunches to cocktails and canapés, the team has everything covered using the freshest ingredients and catering to all dietary requirements. Breakfast, especially, is a triumph with plentiful eggs, fruit plates, juices, and every accompaniment you can think of.
But don’t just stay put – beyond the villa walls, the range of dining spots in Canguu is infinite with countless cuisines, ranging from fancy fine dining and wellness cafes, to street food and little family-run establishments.
We loved the brunch bites of Milk & Madu mid-morning and the sweeping rice paddy views of Milu By Nook for a late Balinese-style lunch. Motel Mexicola delivered noisy late-night tacos & tequila, whilst Indigo – walking distance from the villa – was a delightful fine-dining Japanese feast.
For beachside chill, we headed to Caravan on Berawa Beach, a spot famous for surfing. Perfect for sundowners and nibbles whilst watching learners and pros ride the rolling waves, there’s even a DJ to set the mood.
Things to do
Canguu is famous for its trendy beach clubs and these are a must-visit. We had two incredible days spent at Finn’s and The Lawn respectively. Finn’s Beach Club occupies an enormous plot and somehow masters all elements – quiet daytime brunch, chilled lounger-side bites, bougie evening dining, and full-throttle all-night DJ partying. Moving into the evening, it gets quite theatrical with stilt-walkers, fire dancers, roller-skating cheerleaders and the like, so not really one for kids post-8pm (safe to say our girls’ eyes were popping by the time we left).
The Lawn, on the other hand, masters relaxed day drinking with decent dishes and a chilled soundtrack. The pool faces the beach and it’s worth buying into first-line beds so you can keep an eye on any littles. One to book for a late lazy lunch and lounge through to sundowners.
Another great day out is Finns Rec Club. Specifically designed for families, this is a sports centre, trampoline, and water park rolled into one. We went late afternoon but recommend heading down for a 2pm lunch to maximise the day passes and happy hour.
Retail therapy is another must-do in Canguu, and there are dozens of boutiques along the winding streets to browse. We enjoyed Bokashi Deli for sustainable buys and food produce, Limited Edition for one-of-a-kind high-end fashion, Cove for island lifestyle, and Indigo Kids for gorgeous kidswear.
There are also plenty of Balinese interior shops for those with generous suitcase space – think: dream catchers, cushions, and wicker goods galore. Just be careful as pavements are either non-existent here or in terrible condition – be vigilant of passing mopeds.
Second stop: Uluwatu
On the southwestern tip of the Bukit Peninsula and around a two-hour drive time from Canguu, Uluwatu offers a completely different landscape. Where Canguu lies low, Uluwatu soars high on cliff tops with spectacular views out over the ocean. Rich with coves and beaches, the area boasts some of the best surfing on the island and an array of cultural experiences to get under the skin of Indonesian life.
Where to stay
We stayed at the Anantara Uluwatu Bali Resort in a two-bedroom ocean-view pool villa. There is nothing more indulgent than a home set up within a hotel, and Anantara offers the best value luxury hotel villas in locations worldwide. Uluwatu was no different.
Our villa was wonderful, seamlessly blending Balinese design with modern comforts, from a giant jacuzzi soaking tub and sumptuous linen to our own private infinity pool. Being able to hang with the kids in our own living room overlooking the horizon was a treat – although beware of cheeky monkeys visiting the pool deck to nab your valuables when you’re not looking…
Price from £370 per room per night, for two people, including breakfast
Where to eat and drink
Hotel-based relaxing is essential in Uluwatu and, thanks to breathtaking views, drinking and dining here is a visual feast. No spot is more sensational than Rock Bar at sunset. Claiming to be one of the world’s best hotel bars, this spot within the sprawling Ayana resort is very chic. We visited for sundowners and stayed into the night for supper and the accompanying evening live music – we we loved every minute.
Dugong restaurant at the Suarga is great for a late Indonesian-style lunch after a morning catching waves on Padang Padang Beach. Meanwhile, Ulu Cliff House hit the laid-back daytime vibe with a pool, loungers, and a candy stripe dining deck serving pizzas, salads, and sharing bites. Be sure to check out the nighttime events schedule too, as the whole place occasionally morphs into a full-octane intimate venue for guest DJs such as Rudimental.
The most famous beach bar in the area has to be Single Finn overlooking the Uluwatu surf break. Known for its Sunday sessions, the terrace has unparalleled views of the pro surfers out at sea and is hypnotic at all times of day. However, nab a table away from the speakers if you’re planning to chit-chat.
For fine dining, we hit three epic spots: Bartolo for Italian-inspired sharing plates; Mason for an open wood-fire grill, and SONO Teppanyaki within the Anantara Uluwatu Bali Resort for theatrical immersive Japanese dining.
Things to do
In this writer’s opinion, you cannot travel to Bali without attempting to surf. We had never tried before and enlisted the help of local pro Eddie Ronaldo from EST on Padang Padang Beach, home to the Rip Curl Cup. Safe to say, every single one of us loved it. Eddie’s team positions you in the water to master the art of popping up on your board, and it’s an incredible experience. It’s exhilarating to finally catch that wave—and hilarious when one of you wipes out.
Equally, it would be a travesty to pass through without experiencing the Kecak Fire Dance at Pura Luhur Uluwatu temple. The sunset show is the one to see – ensure you do book in advance as it sells out fast – with a troop of 75 men chanting and dancing to perform the story of Rama’s war against the demons, and it is utterly hypnotic. Prepare to be squashed in and take a fan with you as, before the sun drops below the horizon, the amphitheatre heats up.
Dominating the skyline in Uluwatu is the Garuda Wisnu Kencana statue, located in the cultural park of the same name. Rising 122m into the air, the statue depicts the Hindu God Wisnu atop his mount, the mythical eagle, Garuda. Explore the park on foot or rent a Segway to cover the 60 hectares.
Lastly, no holiday is complete without a wellness moment. We booked into the Anantara Uluwatu Spa and enjoyed the most relaxing authentic Balinese massage to decompress after all our sightseeing. The spa has been designed in
the style of a Balinese lumbung, a rice barn on stilts, and feels blissful. Prepare to leave feeling deliciously carefree.
The verdict
If you are looking for an adventure over the UK summer and are prepared to fly long haul, then Bali should be on your hit list. Expect a good dose of chill, great food, and healthy outdoor living – but keep your itinerary simple. Less is more for those with under a fortnight to spare – eke out every last memory from fewer stops, and you’ll come home feeling both travelled and recharged.
