A Greek Getaway To A Unique Hotel In This Hidden Island Gem

For many, a trip to the Greek Islands is the ideal summer holiday, and with good reason. But there are 227 of them, how do you choose?

For a long time, Santorini and Mykonos were the most popular, but popularity is a double-edged sword, and overtourism has led to issues of crowded beaches and concerns about the sustainability of the islands. Ios, which lies between the two just an hour’s ferry away, still retains an unspoiled ideal people imagine when dreaming about a Greek getaway. We visited Calilo, a hotel which opened in 2019 with sustainability and responsible tourism at its core, and a passion for preserving what makes Ios one of the Cyclades’ hidden gems.

First Impressions

The first thing to note about Calilo is that it sits in a valley. Large rockfaces loom over each side as you drive the winding path to the hotel’s location on the seashore. We rolled in at night, so all we could see were winking lights in the darkness gradually getting closer. The next day, in the light, the scale of the place really sets in. When most rooms have gardens with three private pools each space is required, but more on that later.

Another thing you can’t help but notice is the style of the place. The architecture is wholly unique – a wide open plan, sculptures dotted around the main lobby and pool, swings in place of seats, and a dramatic main entrance encased in a tunnel.

It might be heavy-handed, but the messaging is clear: this is meant to be a place of sheer escapism where, ideally, negativity is left at the door

You also quickly clock the literal affirmations of love and positivity dotted around the place. Above the bar reads a sign that says ‘Create a life you can fall in love with’. It might be heavy-handed, but the messaging is clear: this is meant to be a place of sheer escapism where, ideally, negativity is left at the door.

In the main lobby, there was a sculpture of a man seemingly being shot by arrows – upon closer inspection (and an explainer from the manager) the arrows carried words like love, hope and pathos (meaning passion in Greek) – rather than being slain, he was instead being rejuvenated by the philosophy of Calilo. Resist all you want, but once you get a glimpse of the beach it’s hard to be a cynic.

What Sets It Apart

In many ways, Calilo is a reflection of the island of Ios itself – in fact, it’s as much a preservation project as it is a hospitality endeavour. Owners Angelos Michalopoulos and Vassiliki Petridou were inspired by falling in love with the island but were also wary of Ios turning into the next Santorini or Mykonos – still beautiful, but overtouristed. They got approval from the local council to acquire a third of the entire island and committed to only building on 1% of the land and preserving the rest. As of now, much of Ios remains unspoiled, and the hope is that places like Calilo will usher in a more conscious style of traveller.

Back in 2021, Justin and Hailey Bieber selected the property as one of their first post-Covid trips away.

Tourism, along with shipping, accounts for a large swathe of Greece’s GDP, so moving towards sustainable travel is crucial moving forward. If Calilo is anything to go off, enticing people shouldn’t be an issue. Back in 2021, Justin and Hailey Bieber selected the property as one of their first post-Covid trips away. The manager and staff are unsure exactly what brought them, but it probably has something to do with the luxurious privacy on offer, as well as a viral social media presence. The online sphere is peppered with enviable #travelinspo posts from Calilo’s private pools and hidden caverns, meanwhile, its own Instagram account has over one million followers.

Design-wise, there isn’t really anywhere else on the Greek Isles – never mind Ios – quite like it. Some of it is slightly idiosyncratic, but it works in that it feels like each part of the hotel was a deliberate creative decision, rather than built to a formula – in fact, the hotel is entirely built with stone from a neighbouring quarry.

The Rooms

Of the 36 suites available, no matter what room you choose, it will be spacious. On offer are one-bed, two-bed or three-bed suites, complete with marble silver interior design and filled with luxury products, a flat-screen TV and a giant bath – not that spending time indoors will likely be on the agenda. But there’s more to each room than just indoors.

My room came with a private garden area with three pools – two more for dipping, and one larger – a shaded cabana, and an outdoor shower. The shining star, however, is the Calilo suite, which took approximately 13 months and more than 250,000 handcrafted marble pieces which were individually installed. Overlooking Papas Bay, it features a large outdoor marble pool, an indoor cave pool with a swim-up bar and a swinging double bed over water, ponds, a recessed-in-water lounge for 4 and a natural rock shower. But truthfully, there are no bad rooms in Calilo.

The shining star is the Calilo suite, which took approximately 13 months and more than 250,000 handcrafted marble pieces which were individually installed.

The Facilities

Papas Beach

Judging by my own unofficial count, there are approximately 700 pools at Calilo, including a large one that snakes around the main dining area – but most of your swimming should be done at the private beach just a short walk down to the coast. White sand, azure water – Papas ticks every requirement you’d want from a Greek beach. Straw cabanas offer shade from the sun, and you can even order lunch from the restaurant to eat there. Swim, eat, repeat.

The Spa & Gym

I personally choose to forgo the gym when on holiday, but I recognise that for many starting the day with a workout is non-negotiable – and Calilo has one of the very best around. Fully equipped, modern and with the added bonus of having a great view over the valley and beach, it’s no wonder Calilo is a favourite for footballers who, even when they’re off, need to be on. Best of all, as there are only 36 rooms, chances are you’ll have the place to yourself during an 8 am session – unless you want to book the private trainer on offer.

So concerned with their guests leaving their worries at the door as they are at Calilo, of course, the spa is a major focus. During our stay, they were in the middle of a revamp of their wellness offering, which was only partly complete but coming along nicely. That included two new massage rooms in what felt like a Japanese garden, complete with stepping stones leading to the chairs floating above water, and a large indoor tree.

Also on offer is a sunrise yoga class, which can either take place on the beach or up in the spa area. Is there a better way to start your day besides various stretching and breathing exercises overlooking the sea you know you’ll soon be jumping into?

Food & Drink

There are few things in life that match the luxury of a quality breakfast buffet, and Calilo’s is elite. Organic eggs from their own chickens, fresh fruit, creamy Greek yoghurt, their own special pine honey and an array of pastries and bread can be selected from the buffet, while you can also order la carte options from the menu. It’s a challenge not to get carried away, a challenge I dependably failed each and every morning.

Calilo Restaurant

Greek food, at its best, is pure bliss. Fresh fish, zingy salads, bread that forces you to eat your body weight in it.

It’s a challenge not to get carried away at the breakfast buffet, a challenge I dependably failed each and every morning.

A particular standout was the selection of Greek wine. Its influence is being felt more and more in the UK. The sommelier was at first slightly tentative in suggesting we stick to a diet of Greek-only wine – once we enthusiastically agreed, he was relieved we weren’t instead demanding glasses of Whispering Angel (hint: don’t do this, just go Greek on the wine front). Unleashed, the passion and pride he held for the wines he was suggesting was palpable and, we agreed after tasting, warranted.

CHES

For those looking for an extra special meal – marking an anniversary, family reunion, or just want to feel fancy while on holiday – you can head to Calilo’s fine dining restaurant, CHES. The concept is a delight – a nine-course tasting menu, where each course is inspired by an ingredient from one of the islands of the Cyclades. Highlights include Paros, a fresh and flaky cod fillet with chargrilled greens and skordalia, and Santorini, an indulgent dessert course made of chocolate, carob and Greek coffee.

Things To Do Nearby

Explore local beaches and coves

Some beaches are wholly inaccessible any way other than by boat, while others force long hikes or a clamber over rockface. Best of all, there is no desire to make them easily accessed. It strikes a perfect balance, as there are more than enough beaches easily accessible for everyone to enjoy while preserving others. We took a boat – available to hire from Calilo – and explored spots like Tripiti, Kalo Avlaki and Paralia Klima in all their unspoiled beauty. At times it feels like you’ve washed up on a deserted island; there’s nobody around.

When we reached Paralia Milopatos in the town of Chora, apparently Ios’s most popular and crowded beach, it still only had about the same volume of people as the main strand of Margate during the most stringent of Covid restrictions.

Visit the town of Chora

Ios has a reputation for being more chill than its Cycladic neighbours Mykonos and Santorini, and while it’s not a designated party island, good times are still there to be had. In the town of Chora, there are beach clubs, nightclubs and a vibe not far removed from the one installed by hippies back in the 70s.

Explore the island’s history

Ancient history is everywhere you look in Greece, and the nearby village of Skarkos is one of the oldest in the world. Experts date its inception approximately 5,000 years ago, started by some of the earliest settlers of Europe and the first inhabitants of Ios. Homer, the great poet who wrote The Illiad and The Odyssey, is supposedly buried in a tomb at Plakoto, on a hill at the northmost part of the island.

The Verdict

For any Greek hotel, the star is the beauty of its natural surroundings, and Calilo embraces this. As an extension of Ios, the property reflects and accentuates the island’s unique advantages, and forms part of a holistic hospitality approach from the island as a whole. Delicious food, pristine beaches, a singular style and access to one of Greece’s great hidden gems.

How to get there

There is no airport in Ios – not yet, anyway – so your best bet is to fly into Santorini instead but don’t be put off by the thought of adding one more leg to the journey. Santorini airport is tiny, which means navigating through passport control is a breeze, and the ferry port is a mere 30 minutes away. The boat trip was brilliantly Greek in its idiosyncracies – our ferry was complete with a Minardi 2003 F1 car, widely considered one of the worst in the sport’s history. Once on Ios, Calilo is another 45 minutes by car. They do offer a helicopter service, which flies to and from its own private helipad, but for now, I left that to the Biebers.