A First Timer’s Guide To The Dolomites
Love skiing and hiking? Looking for somewhere a bit different to take yourself on holiday? Try booking a trip to the Dolomites, a lesser-known yet still stunning European destination located in northern Italy. These majestic mountains make for not just a great place to ski during the winter, but can be experienced in a very different way during the summer months, with lush green hills and colourful plant life. This writer stayed at two hotels here during the summer – here’s my experience.
What makes the Dolomites special?
The Dolomite mountain range forms part of the Alps in the northeastern area of Italy. While the French Alps are perhaps where most Europeans’ minds go when they think of skiing destinations, the Dolomites offer a change-up in location and are no less beautiful in their surroundings, no matter what time of year. It’s perfect for snowy sports, with part of the 2026 Winter Olympics set to be held here, but I travelled to the range during early July, with more of an eye for walking and decompressing than speeding down hill. The specific region I experienced was South Tyrol, the northernmost province in Italy and the wealthiest. As you’ll discover if you travel here, the most prominently spoken language is German, with a blend of German and Italian culture constantly present.
Where to stay
There are ample hotels to stay at should you wish to hit the slopes or go out hiking, and I stayed at two whilst on my trip, the first being the 5-star Cyprianerhof. This was a really lovely hotel located around 40 minutes away from Bolzano airport, and truly makes an excellent base camp for daily excursions. The exterior has a wooden, skilodge-like appearance, immediately making you feel cosy and welcome.
A family-run hotel since 1985, Cyprianerhof has undergone many changes over the years, and, as was explained to us, is set to expand further in the near future. While the secluded and quiet location looks perfect for a relaxing wellness retreat, you are encouraged to get out and explore. The philosophy at Cyperianerhof is to let your hair down and your worries go during the evenings and early mornings, and to get closer to nature during the day. It’s their own take on la dolce vita, and blends in well with the hotel’s efforts to become more sustainable in the modern age.
My room was really lovely to stay in, meaning I woke refreshed each day and ready for going up into the mountains, and I never felt like the staff wouldn’t have the answers I needed for any alpine activities I might want to do. Each morning at breakfast, you’re given a little “newspaper”, complete with a weather forecast for the week, and a timetable of various events being held by the hotel that day.
Each morning at breakfast, you’re given a little “newspaper”, complete with a weather forecast for the week
Again, there’s a mix between Italian and German cultures present in the hotel, with staff dressing in more traditional German-looking uniforms at the front desk but Italian opera performances being held weekly (one of which we overheard on our first night). The food here is delicious, whether you’re eating cold ham cuts or from their wide-ranging dinner menu (I tried a teriyaki guinea fowl dish, which was excellent).
Cyprianerhof
The other hotel I stayed at in the Dolomites was Moseralm, roughly a half hour away from Cyprianerhof, and also promising peace and quiet in its mountainous surroundings. This 4-star hotel again has quite a strong blend of Italian and German styles. There are plenty of routes and trails for hiking and biking nearby, and you always feel like you’re close to nature staying here, enjoying the views from your window. I particularly liked the outside al fresco dining at this hotel, where we had lunch, consisting of quite simple Italian dishes, and it created a serene atmosphere. I also enjoyed my room, which had a great view and was perfectly peaceful at night, ensuring an easy night’s sleep. Both hotels also offer spa experiences after a day of exerting yourself, and a cleansing traditional sauna.
There are plenty of routes and trails for hiking and biking nearby, and you always feel like you’re close to nature staying here
Moseralm
Things to do
In the Dolomites, your time is best spent getting up and taking yourself on a walk, a ski slope or a bike and leaving the hustle and bustle of life at home behind. The region, particularly South Tyrol and Bolzano, has been looking to attract more British tourists in recent years, and it’s definitely worth exploring. While winter sports are a big attraction during that time of year, going during summer still offers plenty of things to do in the alpine surroundings.
On my first full day, I took a roughly half-hour journey up from Cyprianerhof on various gondolas and cable cars (worth bearing in mind if you’re not good with heights!) and went for a lengthy hike up on a mountain trail, and the variety of geology and plantlife was fascinating. Up here, you can’t hear much except for other hikers, distant cowbells, and wind.
Up here, you can’t hear much except for other hikers, distant cowbells, and wind.
Perhaps the biggest highlight of my whole stay in the region was a bike ride from Moserlam, which took around two hours and took me through some of the most stunning forest and countryside scenery I’ve ever seen. It’s absolutely worth exploring these forest trails if you get the chance and really get your endorphin levels boosted. The hotels can also arrange other activities for you, including horse riding for animal lovers. While the peaks of the mountains are of course the main (and most obvious) natural attraction, another must-see is Lake Carezza, a fairly small lake with beautiful turquoise coloured water. It’s popular with tourists and looks great on Instagram, though there’s strictly no wading in.
Lake Carezza
The verdict
The Dolomites is a corner of the world that’s definitely worth going for yourself and discovering, particularly if you feel like you’re very familiar with the rest of The Alps. South Tyrol is a wonderful region to explore, with its blend of Italian and German cultures, and Bolzano itself, which I only briefly passed through, is also worth a visit. Cyprianerhof and Moserlam are both perfect hotels to experience the region, and while I can’t fully vouch for the skiing experience, having only gone in July, I can say it’s a must for those who love exploring nature.
Getting there
The best way to get to the Dolomites from London is via SkyAlps, a regional airline that offers flights over to Bolzano airport in around two hours, making a breezy journey. From there, a car ride to your hotel can be arranged, which offers a very picturesque route in itself.
How to book
For a stay at Cyprianerhof
To find out more about Moseralm
For flights with SkyAlps
