The Ultimate Guide To A Long Weekend In Granada
The bird’s eye view from the Miralba rooftop at Palacio Gran Vía captures the gentle beauty of Granada in an instant. The grand dome of the Cathedral; the wafts of aromatic tea drifting up from Arab boutiques; the terracotta roofs of the Jewish quarter; and, of course, the famed Alhambra fortress towering above them all. In times like these, it’s heartwarming to see this rich tapestry of cultures and religions blend seamlessly and peacefully from one to the other.
The panorama is made even more memorable with the backdrop of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains in the distance. This undulating landscape comes to a head at the footpath along the Darro River (more of a trickle these days, thanks to ongoing droughts) at the centre of Granada. This is where my husband and I start our meandering journey, eyeing up cobbled alleyways of shops, tavernas and purchasing gifts (for ourselves) from the independent craft market at the Paseo de los Tristes plaza.
Granada is a sedate blend of bygone tradition, nature and youthful flare. Within just half an hour’s walk, you can be engulfed by leafy forests, watch flamenco shows in a cavern, or sample endless plates of free tapas.
But not before you’ve sipped on a glass of tinto de verano. This cooling summer drink is a mix of red wine and lemonade – and a local must-have. Sure, it sounds revoltingly childlike but it’s surprisingly refreshing.
Must-See Sights: What To Do in Granada
A tour of the Alhambra
First things first – book your tickets for the Alhambra now. We rocked up in the coolness of February and even then the tickets were sold out. A three-hour guided tour is definitely the best way to navigate this patchwork fortress of Islamic architecture and regal palaces. Dating back to the 1200s, emirs and kings have added their own pieces to this grand puzzle, which thankfully was only partly destroyed by Napoleon. The Arab architecture stands out the most with its obsessive symmetry displayed in stunning mosaics and intricate carvings.
You can buy tickets on the official website, or, if you left it late like us, Get Your Guide often has some special deals and tickets going spare. For the health enthusiasts among you, you can also explore hikes or runs in the alpine park just beyond. My husband very much enjoyed his early morning run (and I, my tea in bed).
www.tickets.alhambra-patronato.es
Flamenco dancing and cave dwelling in Sacromonte
The steep hillside of Sacromonte, just moments from the Alhambra, is speckled with white houses, which on closer inspection turn out to be caves. These are the only reminder of the ‘gypsies’ that called this place home. Originating from India, these nomadic families set up camp here from the 15th century up until the 1950s when they were expelled.
What remains are flamenco bodegas, where you can clap along to a particularly expressive take on the traditional Spanish dance.
And there’s the cave museum, worth visiting for the view alone. I never thought the troglodyte life was my calling, but they sure know how to party. Grab a table outside Bar Pibe along the way to indulge in epic scenery and simple tapas.
A meander through the Albaicín
Facing the Alhambra on the other side of the river, is the Albaicín. Narrow houses and thin streets wiggle and wriggle around each other. Simply walking and admiring these passageways is fascinating in itself, but you can also head to the San Miguel viewpoint, where tourists flock to snap the best panoramas of the city.
Where To Stay: Palacio Gran Vía
Slap bang in the middle of the hubbub is the Palacio Gran Vía – one of the city’s newest hotels. This impressive building was once a grand bank, built in the early 20th century. Most recently used as offices, the building has been refurbished by the Barceló hotel group – original bank safes and all – into a five-star 38-room boutique hotel. With easy access to all the sites, elegant restoration, and friendly, attentive staff, it’s the place to stay.
Valet service – just say yes
Guests can drive straight up to a side door of the hotel, which is tucked discreetly along what looks like a pedestrianised street, filled with crowds drinking wine. The valet service is well worth the daily €30 fee. It avoids any major arguments with your passengers/partner and gives you a free pass to drive through all the heavily sign-posted restricted areas in the vicinity. Plus, they even gave our car a complimentary screen wash.
Palatial rooms
The hotel has a fresh, modern feel, which comes in leaps and bounds from the staff working there. It is young after all, having only opened in early 2023. With space at a premium, the bright and breezy interiors make the most of it.
Hints of the old bank are found around every corner, with the wooden banking booths lining the library area and a huge vault door embedded in the wall.
We find ourselves kicking back in a Deluxe City View suite, immediately reclining against the plush, cornflower blue headrest. Lotions and potions are provided by Rituals for the waterfall shower, and there’s a bath deep enough to dive into. And the turn-down service comes with chocolates on your pillow – what’s not to love?
Spa relaxation, terrace views and big breakfasts
Relaxation is very much on the agenda here. You’re invited to choose a room scent on arrival, they give you a sleep-enhancing pillow mist at night, and you can pick from a very extensive pillow list to suit your snooze style. And that’s before we’ve even headed down to the underground spa. A plunge pool, hammam and relaxation area are all neatly slotted into a subterranean space.
Then, of course, there’s more reclining to do on one of the sunbeds on the roof terrace. It’s worth stopping here for impressive views of the city even if you’re not a guest, but make sure to book. For the rest of the time, there are snacks to be had at the café and a generous a la carte breakfast in the morning. And for a romantic dinner? There’s fine dining (see below).
Palacio Grand Vía, A Royal Hideaway Hotel, Gran Vía de Colón, Granada
Room rates start from £226 per night based on two adults sharing on a room-only basis.
Tapas Time: Where To Eat in Granada
It turns out Granada is one of the few places in Spain where the tapas culture lives strong. And by that, we mean that every time you order drinks, you get a small plate of tapas on the house. And my god is it good. Most people head to Calle Navas, nicknamed ‘tapas street’, which is lined with fairly unappetising posters of dishes and bucket loads of tourists. So we took local advice and stuck to the streets around the Cathedral for more authentic plates.
Bella Kurva
A hip bar serving up cocktails and craft beer with street-food-style tapas. Experimental hair dye and edgy attire are encouraged. Order the gyozas and mini bowls of vermicelli noodles, washed down with a bottle of Sierra Nevada pale ale.
La Loca de Gandoca
This tiny dive bar looks big enough to fit a family of mice, but people cheerily perch precariously on wooden stools where they can. The moustachioed owner dashes back and forth with the occasional nod to take your order. Try the negroni with a mini Thai green curry, bacon-wrapped dates and the must-have croquetas.
Taberna La Tana
For a more traditional take on tapas, bypass Calle Navas and at the end of the street, hidden around a corner you’ll find this wine bar run by a brother and sister. Ask them to match your tastes with a local glass of vino and thin slices of hand-carved Serrano ham.
Bohemia Jazz Cafe
Okay, so this one is a tourist hot spot, but the eclectic decor won us over. No inch of the wall is safe from retro pin-ups, books and vintage memorabilia.
No inch of wall is safe from retro pin-ups, books and vintage memorabilia.
Indulge in an alcoholic hot chocolate piled high with squirty cream, while a musician tickles the ivories on a grand piano.
El Patio Restaurant
Looking for something fancy? Head no further than the intimate fine dining setting at Palacio Gran Vía. Order a la carte or opt for one of their tasting menus. We had the seven-course Valentine’s extravaganza, washed down with a large, warming glass of Mincal tempranillo.
Our Top Tips
- Walk everywhere. Yes, it’s hilly but a car is simply a no-go on these higgledy-piggledy streets. Plus, it gives you more of an excuse to make a sherry-fuelled pit stop.
- Indulge in some Arabic tea in the Arab quarter. Served in dainty glasses from traditional metal kettles, it’s a good breather from tapas and wine.
- Get some cash out. While us Londoners probably touch loose change once every two years, in Granada, it’s used frequently. So while you can pay on card, it’s handy to have some coins in your pocket for tips and any extras.
- You’ll see a little basket of bread pop up on your table every time you go for a meal. You will be charged for it, even if you don’t eat it. And while you can probably refuse it in most places, think of it as a service charge, which they don’t add to the bill. Plus, the bread is always cloud-fresh
How To Get There From London
There aren’t any direct flights to Granada unfortunately, but you can fly to Malaga in under 3 hours, and then it’s an hour and a half car drive or train to the city.
But our top tip? Turn your long weekend into a week-long road trip. Take in the route from Malaga, past Ronda, onto Seville, then loop back around to Granada and finish with some last-minute beach time in Malaga. The best of all worlds.
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