My first visit to the Maldives couldn’t have come at a better time. It was the week before the season finale of The White Lotus Season 3, and by then, I had all but imbibed the personality of Victoria Ratliffe. (“Has anyone seen my Lorazepam?”) So I was more than ready for a luxury beach vacation that promised a taste of the good life – and let’s be fair, there’s probably no better place in the world than the Maldives for that.

Located in the North Malé atoll, the Kuda Villingili Resort offers everything you could dream of when you imagine a holiday in the Maldives. Overwater villas with sleek pool decks hover over coral gardens teeming with fish. Restaurants and bars, spread out across the property, outdo each other with their carefully crafted menus. And every day, there’s a new adventure waiting to be had, whether it’s a spa treatment by the sea, a high-energy watersport or even a sunset padel game, and after enthusiastically partaking in all of the above, it’s safe to say that this is the kind of place that will leave you spoilt for choice whether it’s a culinary or sporty adventure you’re looking for.

What sets it apart

I’ve made moodboards of my dream vacation, and this one ticked every box. The resort has 75 villas (all with private pools FYI), but it never feels crowded, even though I was informed that the property was almost fully booked that week. So you can make your holiday as private or social as you want it to be. There’s plenty of opportunity to socialise, people-watch or chat with other guests about what they saw on their dives or snorkel trips, but there’s also ample opportunity to just be by yourself, soak in the pool at your villa and enjoy what feels like your own private beach. The resort is also home to 7 restaurants, offering about eleven different cuisines, inspired by countries near and far, so the hardest decision you’ll ever make here is where to have your lunch and dinner.

First impressions

One of the advantages of Kuda Villingili is that the resort is just a 30-minute speedboat ride from the Velana International Airport in Malé. Our welcoming committee included a pod of dolphins who put on a pretty impressive show (and definitely cured some jet lag). And when we arrived at the jetty, we were greeted by a refreshing drink and the beats of a Maldivian drum – very White Lotus-esque, of course. (“This is episode one,” my brain told me.)

The villas, residences, restaurants, spa, and other areas are all spread out across the island, and the abundance of trees and vegetation that’s been planted here makes it seem rather forest-like and provides some much-needed shelter from the sun while you zip along the sandy paths on your bike.

In just my first hour on the island, I knew that this was the kind of place where time would cease to mean anything.

In just my first hour on the island, I knew that this was the kind of place where time would cease to mean anything, because whether you’re listening to the sound of the sea while getting the best massage of your life or you’re digging into umami-rich tuna steak, served Teppanyaki style, you know that just for a few days, the world really does seem to stand still.

The rooms

A word of warning: leaving your room to do the things you’re supposed to do in the Maldives will be tough. You could actually have a perfectly incredible holiday without leaving your room. I stayed at the beach villa, which has a private pool, a patio with a sun bed, an outdoor rain shower and a king-sized bed, so you can hardly blame me for craving more time to just do nothing but gaze out at the sea debating whether to take a dip in my pool or the sea (I usually went with both).

You could actually have a perfectly incredible holiday without leaving your room.

The interiors of the rooms are deliberately minimal so as to keep the spotlight on the resort’s natural surroundings. The floor-to-ceiling glass doors open out to the beach, making the room feel even more spacious than it already is, and there are thoughtful touches that make just hanging out inside a treat.

There is mood lighting that you can adjust, which can take you from sipping champagne on the sofa to deep, undisturbed sleep. The outdoor shower invites you to bathe with the sound of koels in the background during the day, and under the stars at night.

Every small detail feels well-thought-out and carefully selected.

The bathrooms are fitted with Kimirica products, an Indian skincare brand that makes premium vegan products, and the carpets are made from recycled plastic. Every small detail feels well-thought-out and carefully selected.

There are also larger three and four-room villas available for families or larger groups travelling together, all with private pools and sunset or sunrise views.

The overwater villas are a favourite, and are built over a coral reef.

The overwater villas are a favourite, and are built over a coral reef that invites plenty of colourful fish, manta rays and turtles to your doorstep. These also come with private pools, with a ladder that can take you straight for a dip in the sea.

Things to do

The resort is heavy on adventure activities and sports, and there’s a weekly activity list of fitness classes, including HIIT bootcamps, yoga and aqua fitness. There are also tennis, padel and football facilities, with plans for a pickleball court. In a nutshell, there’s plenty to do for all age groups. If surfing is your thing, the resort has direct access to Chicken’s Break, one of the prime surfing spots in the Maldives. Or you can try kayaking, jet skiing, wakeboarding or snorkelling, with a high chance of sightings of manta rays and reef sharks. For divers or aspiring ones, there’s a dive centre run by a local company called MSTS, who take care of all the watersports activities. Although I have an Open Water SCUBA certification, I hadn’t dived in about five years, so I was excited and a bit nervous to do my first dive. The instructor was only too happy to go over the regular dive skills and signals with me and reassured me that all I had to do was enjoy the dive, and he would make sure I was okay.

Two successful dives later, I was a very happy diver. The visibility is fantastic, and it took only a few minutes for me to forget the awkwardness of breathing through a regulator. We spotted a reef shark gliding not too far away, a Hawksbill turtle ventured quite close, clown fish scuttled in and out of their anemone homes, moray eels glared at us and brightly coloured parrotfish hovered around, undisturbed by our presence. For my first time diving after half a decade, it was a fabulous reintroduction to the wonders of the sea. The resort can organise diving certifications if you’re interested in getting a SCUBA license, or you can book yourself a Discover SCUBA session, which is ideal if you’re wondering if this is a hobby you’re keen to try.

For my first time diving after half a decade, it was a fabulous rreintroduction to the wonders of the sea.

Meanwhile, on land, there’s lots keep you occupied. The spa includes eight self-contained villas overlooking the sea with oversized baths that you soak in while enjoying the sea views. Whether you go for a traditional Thai massage or you choose an authentic shirodhara treatment, the experience is one of a kind. Don’t miss a cup of ginger tea after the massage, it’s lovely and soothing.

The spa includes eight self-contained villas overlooking the sea.

Plus, if you didn’t have the time to get your nails holiday-ready, you can get a mani-pedi at the salon here, and I was told they also give great haircuts.

A centrepiece at the resort is the 150-meter pool (the largest in the Maldives), which is surrounded by lush greenery, sunbeds, cabanas and jacuzzis. The resort can organise a pool dining experience for you where they set up a table in the actual pool, taking things a few notches higher than your regular floating breakfast.

The resort goes to great lengths to make sure it’s as family-friendly as possible. There are baby cribs, strollers and even teepee tents provided if you want them, and treasure hunts, games and arts and crafts are planned for kids of all ages, with a babysitting service you can use if needed.

The resort goes to great lengths to make sure it’s a family-friendly as possible.

Dining

At Kuda Villingili Maldives, the dining options are seriously impressive, and it’s hard to imagine that there’s a resort in the Maldives that offers a wider range of options. There are 7 restaurants which offer eleven different cuisines. Breakfasts are at The Restaurant, where you can have everything from masala dosa to homemade jams, fruit from the land and a spicy Maldivian omelette. Overlooking the beach, this area is divided into three individual venues, Earth, Fire and Ocean, inspired by the elements. Fire is best for grilled meats and is inspired by traditional American steakhouses. Ocean, as you can expect, champions seafood prepared in a European style (I’d recommend going for the catch of the day). Earth serves Asian dishes with natural, organic ingredients. I am always excited to eat Indian food, and the in-house Indian-Arabic restaurant, Spice, serves an assortment of flame-grilled kebabs and smoky tandoor specialities. I loved the galouti kebabs and the tandoori chicken was just what I needed to recover after a long day of diving.

A hot favourite for lunch is Med, which serves light salads, oven-baked pizzas and a fabulous coconut milkshake. At Mar-Umi, expect a fusion of Peruvian and Japanese cuisine with a theatrical teppanyaki experience. East serves flavourful Thai and Korean dishes – the dumplings are perfect for a light lunch.

The dining options are seriously impressive.

Beyond the restaurants, there’s a poolside bar and cigar lounge. At sunset, you’ll find the guests converging at the Raalhu Bar, where you can sip cocktails in the sand with a view of the surf point.

Verdict

As someone who loves a great meal as well as an outdoorsy adventure, I found myself spoiled for choice here. Mornings were spent diving or snorkelling among kaleidoscopic reefs, followed by long lunches and dinners with tables piled high with the most exciting dishes. For a food writer who is always eager for her next great meal, Kuda Villingili really sets the bar with its foodie options.

As someone who loves a great meal and a thrilling adventure, I found myself spoiled for choice here.

The personal butler service (hats off to Usaama for answering the silliest questions with patience) ensures you are well taken care of, whether it’s answering questions about the air-conditioning or requesting buggy rides to the restaurants. And as I waved goodbye to the team that looked after us, I couldn’t help but think that this is one holiday that’s going to be hard to beat. Even Victoria Ratliffe would agree.

Getting there

Kuda Villingili Maldives is a 30-minute speedboat ride from the Velana International Airport in Malé. There are direct flights from London Heathrow via Virgin Atlantic, which get you to Malé in about 10 hours.

How to book

To make your bookings, contact the reservations team at reservations@kudavillingili.com or visit the website. Rates at Kuda Villingili start from £1,200 per night.


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