Where To Eat, Sleep & Experience Madiera
From what to see to where to sleep and the dishes you can’t leave without trying, read on for our ultimate Madeira travel guide.
Nestled around 1,700km off the coast of Portugal sits Madeira. An island unlike anywhere we’ve ever visited, it hits the sweet spot between local familiarity and warmth and exotic, and at times, fairytale-like qualities.
There are winding mountain roads lined with banana trees that seemingly never end, waterfalls scattered over the island and Insta-worthy volcanic baths to take a dip into. This place is so much more than Cristiano Ronaldo and pastel de natas (although there’s plenty of them and they are excellent) and we have totally fallen for its spellbinding magic.
Read on for everything you need to know about visiting Madeira…
PONTA DE SOL, MADEIRA
Must-See Things To Do In Madeira
Take A Jeep Ride Up To The Highest Point Of The Island
If there is one way to see the sheer variety this magical island has to offer, it’s this. And there are a few companies who offer open-top Jeep rides across the island. We started in what is known as Madeira’s warmest village, Ponta do Sol. With its pastel painted walls and old fashioned street lights it looks like something out of a Wes Anderson film.
Stop for an ice cream or a cold beer at one of the cliff edge bars before making your way up through lush greenery, past dramatic waterfalls, roads lined with banana trees before you start your ascent to the highest point of the island, the Paul da Serra plateau.
Once off the beaten track, things get bumpy and are more akin to a Jurassic Park experience than a holiday excursion. The open-top Jeep will take you through dirt track roads with impossibly steep inclines, eucalyptus trees that brush past your face and a temperature that goes from balmy and sunkissed to chilly and eerie in a matter of minutes.
The trip takes you from zero metres to a whopping 1,500 metres in very little time at all, through ancient roads built as far back as the 15th century. Once at the top, you are faced with a jaw-dropping expanse of flat ground, 24km squared, in fact, which is hard to get your head around after being on such a steep climb for the last half an hour. Otherworldly and exciting in equal measure, and without a doubt a must for anyone wanting to see all the variety Madeira has to offer in a short space of time.
Take A Dip In Madeira’s Volcanic Pools
Considered one of the natural beauty spots on the island and some of the best volcanic pools in the world, are Maderia’s Porto Moniz pools. Whilst the island doesn’t have many sandy beaches to treat your toes to, these natural wonders are the perfect place to cool off and get that all-important Instagram shot.
Enjoy The Views Along The Levadas And Footpaths Of Maderia
It would be criminal to visit Madeira without at least one big walk, even for those with an aversion to hiking. The Lavadas are the perfect place to do so. They are the man-made water channels that have, for centuries, facilitated water to the island’s bounty of agriculture. Today, you can take numerous walks of varying difficulty that wind through the lush green and steep canopies of Maderia’s south side. It’s well worth booking a tour guide to explain all the wildlife and spanning vistas you’ll spot along the way.
Take Flight On The Famous Cable Cars
Starting off at the epicentre of Madeira’s capital, Funchal, book a slot on the famous cable cars that take you from sea level up 1600-metres to the stunning Botanical Gardens of the island.
We set off with slight trepidation – a glass container hanging from what appears to be a science-defying thin cable is never something we’d jump at the chance of – but the ride is surprisingly smooth, tranquil even as you look down on doll house-esque views below and the winding roads and mountains of the island. It’s also a great way to make your way up to some of the higher points of the island if you’re without a car and only takes about 15 minutes each way.
At the top, you’ll find one of Madeira’s prettiest gems, the Botanical Gardens. Here you’ll find a kaleidoscope of tropical flowers and exotic plants and beautifully landscaped trees from around the world, which thrive in Madeira’s unique tropical microclimate.
Brave A Traditional Toboggan Ride
If you have the stomach for it, make your way back down via one of Madeira’s quirkiest offerings, a traditional wicker toboggan ride. What appears to be a health and safety issue waiting to happen, is actually one of the most fun and exhilarating activities to do on the island, as two Carrerios, “drivers” dressed in white, wearing jaunty straw boaters, sledge you back down the winding hills at up to 30 km per hour. Mind-blowingly, the only use their custom-made rubber-soled shoes as breaks (yes, really), but it is a tradition that has been going since the mid-1800s and we promise you’ll be in safe hands.
Where To Stay In Madeira
We stayed at the NEXT hotel in Funchal, which is part of one of Madeira’s most iconic hotel groups, Savoy Signature. This is definitely the youngest, hippest offering to their portfolio, from the state-of-the-art tech throughout the hotel and rooms to immersive art installations, an impossibly chic co-working space in the lobby to the hotel’s support and championing of the LGBTQ+ community.
Situated slightly west of the centre of Funchal, it sits in a pocket that’s a little calmer than the busier streets of the main town, but is still in walking distance to get all its benefits. The views are sensational, perched right on the coast looking out to the tempestuous Atlantic with swaying palm trees and retro yellow and white parasols peppered below.
The best views in the house, however, are up on the rooftop pool which is one of NEXT’s pulls. The island isn’t most famous for its sandy beaches, and the waters can be quite choppy, especially in this area, so having a rooftop pool to relax in, cocktail in hand (make sure you order their signature Mystic Fog) after all the activities that Madeira has to offer is pure bliss. It’s also worth noting that the pool looks down onto Cristiano Ronaldo’s sprawling Funchal property and you might just be lucky enough to see the football superstar having his morning coffee on the balcony.
The views are sensational, perched right on the coast looking out to the tempestuous Atlantic with swaying palm trees and retro yellow and white parasols peppered below.
For more R&R, head to the grande dame of the Savoy Signature group, the nearby Savoy Palace, which looks like a behemoth of a cruise liner but on land. There you will find the Laurea Spa. At 3100 square metres, it is one of the largest spas in Europe and is nothing short of indulgent luxury. Inspired by nature and Madeira’s own magical garden, everything is in lush green tones and woody browns and, at times, you actually feel like you’re outside in a kind of rainforest setting. Treat yourself to everything from sensorial showers to ice baths, a champagne and nail bar, and an extensive spa treatment menu.
Where To Eat In Madeira
Don’t be fooled into thinking that Madeira has the same cuisine as Portugal. The island very much has its own distinct culture and they are fiercely proud of their food. And so they should be, there are so many delicious places to eat and drink, whether you go local or higher end. Some to tick off the list are…
Espetada – succulent hunks of meat or prawn cooked on a skewer over an open flame. Then served hanging up pride of place in the middle of the table with herby rich butter dripping down onto the meat. Rustic, simple but absolute heaven.
Lapas (or limpets) – you’ll find these sweet little sea gems on so many menus. Fried in olive oil and a splash of lemon, they are perfect as a starter or even a snack with a cold local ‘Coral’ beer.
Pastel da Nata – well, it would be criminal to visit a Portuguese island without an afternoon treat of their famous custard tart. You’ll find cafés and bakeries dotted all over the main town each with their own rendition of the signature sweet treat.
Poncha – a bit like what ouzo is to Greece or Pernnod to the French, Poncha is Madeira’s local elixir of choice. It’s most commonly made using oranges but you’ll find lemon varieties and other fruit juices too. It’s almost dayglow in colour and, warning, it may taste like orange juice but it does some serious damage. Definitely drink with caution.
Wine Tasting – head up to local winery Quinta do Barbusano, nestled in one of the most beautiful spots we experienced on the island. Up in the hills, down an old beaten track, the modern vineyard is nuzzled into a spectacular vista of lush green mountainside and canopies of vines creeping around the rock face.
Out in front, stands the statuesque Capelinha de Nossa Senhora de Fátima (Chapel of Our Lady of Fatima) with its unique white clocktower built in 1948. The views are something else and made all the easier to see thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows of the wineries restaurant and wine tasting area. Take a tour of the vineyards amongst sweet little goats trotting around before settling down to sample the delicious wines made just a stone’s throw away. The owner of the vineyard even makes his own traditional espetada for guests in his no-frills, outdoor kitchen.
Nikita Drink – another drink local to Madeira, it’s essentially pineapple juice and ice cream and is, quite possibly, the best thing to drink around a pool on a stifling hot day.
Note-Worthy Restaurant:
If there was one standout restaurant we tried on the island, it was Terreiro, which is inspired by local traditions and cuisine with a focus on seasonal and sustainable.
The octopus carpaccio is a must-try, paired with Padron peppers and the most delicate slithers of toasted bread; whilst the Cataplana was plump with langoustine, shrimp and white fish, in an unctuous, rich broth. Delicious. The service was infallible and the restaurant definitely has a bit more of a ‘special dinner out’ vibe than a lot of local places. The interiors are also *chef’s kiss* and the fairy light-lit courtyard that you come out onto at the end of the night creates one of those never-forget holiday moments.
Must-Know Tips
- Pack practically – if you’re wanting to make the most of Madeira’s incredible nature, make sure you take a backpack, water bottle, trainers or walking shoes, a waterproof jacket, sunhat and lots of layers. Pack for every eventuality, as it can be scorching hot in the sun but chilly up in the Levadas and the Pateau.
- Book registered guides – not only because there is so much information to take in, from the history to the agriculture and wildlife, but certain areas can be dangerous for inexperienced or unfamiliar with the area walkers. Take a guide who knows what they are doing.
- Don’t worry too much about the time of year – Madeira has a unique microclimate which means it never really gets that cold, certainly not UK-standard cold. The temperature ranges from around 17°c in winter and 25°c in summer. Plus, the seas stay pretty warm. September is the best time to take a dip when the sea hits an average of 25°c.
The Verdict
We knew we would love Madeira but I didn’t realise quite how spellbindingly magical it would be. Its unique and – at times – fairytale-like nature makes it one of Europe’s hidden gems, whilst the warmth and pride of the locals ripple through the island. Trust us, this is a place you’ll find it hard not to return to.
Find the NEXT hotel at R. Carvalho Araùjo 8, 9000-022 Funchal, Portugal.
Rates start from €130 with breakfast included.
For more information or to book online visit www.hotelnext.com
