Salzburg, Austria Travel Guide - How To Spend 48 Hour In The City

Nestled right in the Alps with an abundance of beautiful churches, Rococo-style architecture, stunning skylines and pastel-hued houses peppered along the winding river, Salzburg, Austria is one of Europe’s most beautiful cities.

With tempting Konditoreiens – Austria’s answer to patisseries – on every corner, a captivating classic music and arts scene, the charming cobbled streets of the Old Town and, of course, the Hollywood connections to singing nuns and The Sound of Music, the easy-to-navigate, compact city is ideal for a 48-hour city break. The Handbook’s Contributing Fashion & Lifestyle Editor, Astrid Carter, takes us through what to do, see, and where to eat and sleep in the Austrian destination…

Things to do

Salzburg has an abundance of activities to sink your cultural teeth into, but it’s also one of those cities that is just a joy to walk around. It’s small and easy to navigate but nestled beneath the behemoth of the Alps, so the views are incredible from pretty much anywhere.

On every corner is a medieval church or a Rococo-style building and a winding maze of cobbled streets inviting you to stop for pastries or coffee. The Old Town, in particular, is worth a few hours of pottering about, from chocolate shops to horse-drawn carriage rides, with art installations like Stephan Balkenhol’s mesmerising “Sphaera,” featuring a male figure standing on a large golden sphere, to impromptu performances from street musicians dressed in traditional lederhosen.

The Sound of Music may have catapulted the Austrian city into the Hollywood Hall of Fame, but it has so much more to offer in its own right. Starting with their own biggest and brightest musical star, Mozart. Born in Salzburg in 1756, the musician lurks everywhere in the city, from his birthplace, the mustard-hued “Hagenauer Haus” and now a museum, to the cardboard cutouts of the composer that greet you in just about every tourist shop (of which there are many) throughout the city.

Where: Getreidegasse 9, A-5020 Salzburg
Website: www.mozarteum.com

Salburgers is fiercely proud of Wolfgang – rightly so – and it would be criminal not to experience some of his works live whilst visiting the place that harvested them. To do so, head to the Fortress Hohensalzburg, an imposing 11th-century castle watching over the many church steeples, beautiful squares and sweet cobbled streets of the city. By day, the castle is a tourist attraction in its own right and well worth a visit to see the stunning vistas of the fairytale city and a backdrop of breathtaking Austrian mountains behind it.

where: Mönchsberg 34, 5020 Salzburg
Website: www.festung-hohensalzburg.com

Salburgers is fiercely proud of Wolfgang – rightly so – and it would be criminal not to experience some of his works live whilst visiting the place that harvested them.

By night, book in for one of their Sounds of Mozart concerts. We booked a package for a three-course dinner within the fortress walls, but to be honest, the restaurant and menu are a little dated, so we’d recommend doing the concert only, which is spectacular, before heading back to the town for a bite to eat. The setting is intimate, and the musicians are astounding, with hairs-standing-up-moments that set the tone for the first night in the Austrian city.

We returned to the Fortress via the Fortress Railway or FestungsBahn on the last day of our trip to take in those magical views once again. It is captivating at any time of day, from the beaming spring sunshine at noon for cake and beers outside when it has an almost après ski vibe, to the 6pm ringing of the church bells when you can hear steeples from the dozens of churches below – there is a reason they call Salzburg the “City of Churches.” It’s a magical moment, especially at this time of year when the ringing of the bells marries up perfectly with the gorgeous golden hour sunset.

The Fortress is captivating at any time of day, but in the spring sunshine at noon iit has an almost apres ski vibe.

For a less formal dose of classical music and perhaps a finer choice if you’re not wild about Mozart, head to the Salzburg Cathedral (the Dom zu Salzburg) for free 30-minute recitals every day at noon. Taking place just after the ringing of the bells (apart from Sundays) it’s a good chance to dip your toe into the classical music culture of the city without going full concerto.

Where: Domplatz 1a, 5020 Salzburg
Website: www.salzburg-dom.com

If art is more your thing, the Museum der Moderne Salzburg is well worth a visit. Perched on top of the cliffs of the Mönchsberg mountain, 60 metres above Anton-Neumayr-Square, the unusual building houses some of Austria’s most beloved artists across paintings, photography and sculpture. A must-visit to tick off seeing the works of Klimt or Schiele, amongst others.

where: Mönchsberg 32, 5020 Salzburg
Website: www.Museumdermoderne.com

Weather permitting, head to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Mirabelle Palace Gardens, one of Salzburg’s most famous landmarks. Controversially, the palace was built in 1606 by Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau simply for his mistress and their 15 children to live in. However, you’re more likely to recognise the gardens for the role they played in The Sound of Music when Julie Andrews and the Von Trapp kids frolicked around the fountain and sang Do-Re-Mi on the famous steps. The gardens are immaculate at any time of year but come into their own during the spring and summer months when they are filled with beautiful blooms.

Where: Mirabellplatz 4, 5020 Salzburg
Website: www.mirabelpalace.com

Outside of the city, if you want to indulge in some five-star hospitality, head to the Rosewood Schloss Fuschl for lunch or dinner and a nightcap in their cosy fire-lit bar.

where: Schloss-Strasse 19, Hof bei Salzburg
Website: www.rosewoodschloss.com

The Schloss Restaurant offers a fine-dining tasting menu that celebrates authentic Salzkammergut cuisine with the most stunning views of Lake Fuschl – so clear are the waters that you can see five metres below the surface. Only 30 minutes from Salzburg city (about €40 in a cab), the hotel is the perfect chance to chill out on the lake and try traditional produce but with an elegant and modern twist. Plus, the location is something else, from the hotel’s castle origins that date back to 1461 to the mesmerising views.

Outside of the city, if you want to indulge in some five-star hospitality, head to the Rosewood Schloss Fuschl for lunch or dinner and a nightcap in their bar featuring a roaring fire. Their Schloss Restaurant offers a fine-dining tasting menu that celebrates authentic Salzkammergut cuisine with the most stunning views of Lake Fuschl – so clear are the waters that you can see five metres below the surface. Only 30 minutes from Salzburg city (about €40 by cab), the hotel is the perfect chance to chill out on the lake and try traditional produce but with an elegant and modern twist. Plus, the location is something else, from the hotel’s castle origins that date back to 1461 to the mesmerising views.

Also outside of the city is the charming village of Hallstatt. Its postcard-worthy aesthetic features sweet Alpine properties nestled higgledy piggledy on the shore of Lake Hallstatt and has, understandably, captured the Insta travel set. This makes it incredibly busy, but if you do want to visit, go first thing to enjoy the stillness of the water and pretty UNESCO-protected streets before everyone else gets there. The drive from Salzburg takes just over an hour and is the easiest route, but you can get a train and then a short ferry ride, which takes longer but is pretty special.

Its postcard-worthy aesthetic features sweet Alpine properties nestled higgledy piggledy on the shore of Lake Hallstatt and has, understandably, captured the Insta travel set.

Finally, it wouldn’t be a trip to Salzburg without indulging in a little Sound of Music fodder, and even if you’re not a fan of the 1965 film, the tour will leave you in good spirits. Run by Panorama Tours, the Original Sound of Music Tour takes you on a bus ride through the city, the mountain landscapes where the famous opening shots were filmed, stunning lake district locations and other recognisable scenes, from the Nonnberg Abbey home to the film’s singing nuns to the gazebo Leisel danced her way around on the brink of adulthood.

where: Hubert-Sattler-GASSE 1, 5020 sALZBURG
Website: WWW.SOUNDOFMUSIC.COM

Warning: singing on the bus is encouraged but not mandatory and is far less cringe than it sounds. And Sound of Music superfans aside, you actually learn a lot about the history of Salzburg, some great insider Hollywood facts for film buffs, and get to see places outside of the city that you probably wouldn’t have time or knowledge to visit without a guided tour.

It wouldn’t be a trip to Salzburg without indulging in a little Sound of Music fodder and even if you’re not a fan of the 1965 film, the tour will leave you in good spirits.

We would recommend booking the tour with guide Cadien, who was charming and funny and made the whole experience a joy – even for the less enthusiastic fans.

Sound of Music gazebo at Hellbrunn Palace.

One stop on the tour that is a must-visit is the Basilica St. Michael in Mondsee – the church featured in the film’s wedding scene and is honestly one of the most beautiful churches we’ve ever been in. Head across the square to Cafe Braun, a family-run establishment that dates back to 1924 – for hot chocolate topped with an alp size of whipped cream and warm apple strudel.

where: Mondsee am Mondsee, Oberösterreich
Website: www.basilica-stmichael.com

Where to stay

We stayed at Hotel Goldgasse, a charming boutique hotel that is part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World portfolio. You’re right in the buzz of the city here, amongst the Baroque buildings of the Old Town and just a stone’s throw from the stunning Dom zu Salzburg, Mozart’s birthplace and the river that runs through the city.

where: Goldgasse 10, 5020 Salzburg
website: www.hotelgoldgasse.com

Nestled in the pedestrianised streets of this part of the city, you have to access the hotel on foot from the nearby Residenzplatz, but it adds to the charm of Salzburg’s old-world charm that there are very few cars around the Old Town. It’s the perfect spot for shopping from artisanal chocolate shops (we came home with the prettiest and tastiest confectionary from a store called Braun) to high-end designers like Prada and Louis Vuitton, or the weird but wonderful Christmas Shop – a year-round cavern dedicated to the most beautiful Christmas baubles. Whether it’s December or July, this place gives Liberty’s Christmas Hall a run for its money.

Inside Hotel Goldgasse, you’ll find 16 rooms and suites – all designed differently. Inspired by the city’s musical roots, each one is named after a famous opera and features life-sized photos of the performances of said operas on the walls. It makes for an unusual and slightly surreal interior look, but coupled with cosy wood panelling, ornate chandeliers and ridiculously comfy beds – necessary after a day’s sightseeing – the hotel has its unique charm.

It’s easy to skip a hotel breakfast during a city break and head to a local patisserie or coffee shop, but Goldgasses’ breakfast is brilliant. There’s no menu as such, but rather a three-tiered cake stand of delights brought to your table in the ground floor restaurant. Tuck into fresh pastries, jars of homemade overnight oats, local hams, cured fish, and moreish soft cheese, along with a basket of salty seeded bread. With cups of coffee and fresh OJ on tap, you’re all set for a day of exploring everything the city has to offer.

Where to eat and drink

Austria is synonymous with schnitzel, strudel and sausages so you’ll find a lot of those in Salzburg. If you want to try the traditional dishes of the city in small plate form, hear to Stern Lounge to order mini ‘tapas’ portions of the likes of poached trout fillet with fiery horseradish, homemade mini bratwurst and cheesy dumplings with sauerkraut. It’s a great way to try different dishes without committing to one hefty plate of sausages and potatoes and everything we tried was genuinely delicious.

Visiting Austria without trying their famous schnitzel would be a crime, and we highly recommend Meissl & Schadn in the Old Town for its traditional French bistro-style interiors and enormous chandeliers, all while exuding a cool and relaxed atmosphere, complete with a lively crowd. Schnitzel is their signature dish, as confirmed by the very Instagrammable ‘Schnitzel Love’ branding adorning the walls and windows, where you can observe the chefs preparing it in the glass-fronted kitchen.

where: getreidegasse 50, 5020 salzburg
website: www.meisslandschadn.com

Schnitzel so large they practically spill off the plate – a must-order paired with a chilled crisp Grüner Veltliner.

Traditionally served with sides of potato salad, capers, grated egg, herbs (our favourite), or sweet cranberry sauce, these generous portions of schnitzel are so large they practically spill off the plate. It’s a must-order if you’re in the area, perfectly paired with a chilled, crisp Grüner Veltliner.

Salzburg is also a great city for eating on the go, whether that’s sipping coffee from an ice cream cone from the Nur Coffee kiosk in the Old Town to stopping for the signature Salzburger Nockerl desserts that you can pretty much get in any cafe or restaurant – sweet, fluffy soufleés traditionally served to represent the imposing hillsides of the city. We sampled a few on our trip and at times, it seemed each was trying to outdo the rest in sheer size, but despite the grandeur of the dish, they are light and fluffy and the perfect dessert to finish off a hearty Austrian meal or take an afternoon pitstop for.

where: BÜRGERSPITALGASSE 3-5, 5020 slazburg
website: www.nurcoffee.com

If beer is your drink, you’ll be very pleased with the Salzburg Augustine. Head north along the Salzach River to find their brewery and traditional beer house for steins on long banqueting tables and plates of traditional Australian street food from the in-house food market. Or for something a bit more upmarket, Hotel Stein’s rooftop bar boasts some of the best views in the city, from the river to the mountains and the steeples in between. We sat in the early spring sunshine for one too many negronis with arguably one of the best views in the whole of Austria.

where: Lindhofstraße 7, 5020 Salzburg
website: www.salzburgaugustine.com