The Slow Decline Of The Main Course
Small plates, tapas, mezze and dim sum — the trend of the little dish is no trend at all, but a way of life. People all over the world yearn for small servings over large, nibbles over mounds, picky bits over platters. I am people. And I will take it even farther as to say that appetisers are the new main, and mains are, if anything, an afterthought in this orderer’s little brain.
Appetisers aren’t just about quantity or variety; they are about movement. They keep a table alive. A steady rotation of dishes arriving, being passed around, half discussed, half eaten. No one is stuck with a single plate, committed to one flavour, one texture, or one decision.
Mallory, Junior Food & Drink Editor
The hot take
Appetisers are far better than entrees — there, I said it. But I know you all were thinking it, too. Appetisers are what we debate over, what we decide to split and share and rip and slice. Appetisers are the lifeblood of the order. “Let’s get the crudo and the labneh and bread, and we can share those” or “let’s split pappadoms, samosas, onion bajhi and chaat”. Yes, let’s. Many times, you’ll hear a whisper, a tingle at the table that asks, “Should we just get appetisers and skip the mains?” Probably a good call.
The reality is, I want dips more than I want a half chicken. I want tartare more than I want steak. Calamari more than salmon. I know I am not the only one. In fact, the whole concept of courses has a psychological effect on us, and if the mains aren’t as good as the appetisers, it’s probably more of a compliment than a fault of the restaurant.
In a 2015 study hypothesising that hedonic contrast occurs between courses, it was found that diners rate mains far less if the appetisers are very good. To summarise, two groups were served the same main, but one group’s main was preceded by a mediocre bruschetta, the other a very good bruschetta. The main that followed the good bruschetta received worse reviews than the other. Fascinating. What we can take from this is that the more a restaurant excels in the appetisers, the harder it will be for the mains to compete. There’s not much one can do to mend that reality, so we may as well just get rid of the mains altogether. Viva la appetiser, right?
There is absolutely no need for me to drop £30+ on a dish that more than likely could be shrunk in both size and price, making room for several more bites, several more small plates, ones engineered for connection, for flying conversation.
I have never — not once — been joined at a table full of people who are not excited about the appetisers. I have, though, been joined by people opting out of mains. Moreover, there is absolutely no need for me to drop £30+ on a dish that more than likely could be shrunk in both size and price, making room for several more bites, several more small plates, ones engineered for connection, for flying conversation. Quite frankly, that is where the joy lies in dining.
Verdict
Appetisers aren’t just about quantity or variety; they are about movement. They keep a table alive. A steady rotation of dishes arriving, being passed around, half discussed, half eaten. No one is stuck with a single plate, committed to one flavour, one texture, or one decision. The table is in it together, reaching across, negotiating last bites, ordering one more if they’re still a bit hungry late.
There’s also something to be said for the pacing. A main arrives, and that’s it — conversation dips, focus narrows, and suddenly everyone is quietly working through their own plate. But small plates? Appetisers? They interrupt, demanding attention, sparking opinions or inspiration. Have you tried this? You need a bit of this with that. Appetisers are dynamic, they are social, and they are far more fun.
This is the point, in case you forgot. Dining out at its best is not about efficiency or structure, but experience and connection. Appetisers offer freedom. They let you build a meal in real time, guided less by convention and more by instinct.
Shall I say it again? Appetisers are better than mains. And mains, to me, are a meal best cooked at home. The little things matter; in this case, they matter most.
