An Insider’s Guide To Edinburgh
Having traded the hustle of London for the crisp air of Scotland, The Handbook’s Contributing Fashion & Lifestyle Editor, Astrid Carter, spends many a weekend exploring Edinburgh. Here she shares her insider’s guide to where to eat, sleep, drink, and shop in the Scottish capital, from secret speakeasies to where to buy excellent knitwear, affordable but chic hotels to must-visit bakeries.
Where to eat
If there are two places I return to time and time again, it’s these: Sotto and The Palmerston.
The former is an enoteca and trattoria in the heart of Stockbridge (one of my favourite little nooks of the city). The menu is concise but refined – I’d order literally anything in good faith – ranging from excellent bar snacks over a quick glass from their stellar Italian wine list to sharing plates of slippery pasta steeped in venison ragu, melt-in-the-mouth steak, or delicate seasonal fish. It changes constantly, giving me endless excuses to return.
Secondly – but in equal favour – is The Palmerson. Ask anyone who knows their way around Edinburgh’s food scene, and they will direct you here; the hype is entirely warranted. Set in Haymarket in the West End, they are passionate about nose-to-tail eating (without making it feel daunting) and work closely with local farmers, growers, and fishermen. On my last visit, I had cockles and clams in a creamy cider sauce topped with zesty gremolata, followed by slow-roasted Shetland lamb with olive oil potatoes – comforting yet effortlessly cool, which is precisely the nail The Palmerston hits. Beyond the food, there’s a magic to the space, from the passionate, chatty staff to the candlelit tables and big sprawling artworks.
Book a window table, order one of their signature freezer martinis, and settle in for some of the finest people-watching in the city.
Astrid, Contributing Fashion & Lifestyle Editor
My latest discovery, tucked down Old Town’s famously winding Victoria Street, is Whirlybird. Aside from being fun to say – and even more fun to hear in a Scottish accent – it’s a true gem right in the thick of the tourist hustle. Open from breakfast through to dinner, it functions as a cool café serving up great coffee and pastries until noon before turning into a chic restaurant for the rest of the day. The interiors are right up my street, featuring big statement mirrors, pops of red, and vibrant frilly-striped lights. Standouts include the East Coast seafood chowder – plump prawns and mussels sat in a velvety broth – and deep-fried parcels of joy filled with haggis and ox cheek. They excel at showcasing seasonal Scottish produce while keeping things modern and fresh. Book a window table, order one of their signature freezer martinis, and settle in for some of the finest people-watching in the city.
When I want to feel a bit fancy, it has to be Gleneagles Townhouse. The city sibling to Scotland’s most iconic hotel sits in a grand former Bank of Scotland headquarters on St Andrew Square. The Spence restaurant, housed in the city’s old banking hall, is a feast for the eyes. I like to book a spot at the bar for a fabulous date-night spot, but really this is the type of place you can take anyone if you want to impress.
When I want to feel a bit fancy, it has to be Gleneagles Townhouse.
For serious gastronomy that’s not eye-wateringly expensive, book the tasting menu at Cardinal. Working with ingredients harvested from their own kitchen garden, they offer full tasting menus starting at £85 alongside an inspired £25 Market Menu. If you’re after Michelin-starred destinations, Edinburgh boasts seven of them. Among them is the stripped-back yet elegant Timberyard, which shines a light on seasonal Scottish produce and exclusively wild meats – think deer, game birds, wild boar, hare, and rabbit.
I’m also itching to try LYLA, a Michelin-starred spot that has recently added guest rooms. Wild Scottish seafood takes centre stage here, and the accolades have arrived fast and thick – including Best Restaurant in Scotland and ranking 17th in the UK in 2025. It’s firmly at the top of my hit list.
Where to Drink
I might be biased, but I think Glasgow’s pub scene trumps Edinburgh’s any day (sorry, Edinburgh) – but what the capital does exceptionally well is sexy cocktail dens. The Spence at Gleneagles offers a bougie, maximalist vibe, but if you can wangle your way into Lamplighters on the rooftop, do it. It’s strictly reserved for club members and hotel guests (so book a room or find a friend with deep pockets), but golden hour on the outdoor terrace – surrounded by imposing rooftop statues with a sunset glowing over the gothic skyline – is pure magic.
For something irreverent and quirky, head to Panda & Sons on Queen Street. Disguised as a vintage barbershop, this red-hued speakeasy hides a globally renowned menu of inventive cocktails inside.
The capital does sexy cocktail dens exceptionally well.
On the understated end of the spectrum, Lady Libertine is my go-to meeting spot near Waverley Station. It’s less than a five-minute walk away if you’re waiting for a train, yet remains tucked away from the tourist-packed crowds. Low-key and cool, the interiors are all wood panelling and plush leather banquettes with rich green marble.
Spry Wines, on the way to Leith, is a chic, minimalist wine bar and bottle shop – ideal for sipping natural pours or an interesting bottle to take home. Meanwhile, Hey Palu has won my heart with its dedicated Negroni menu (they even offer a Negroni Flight for the brave).
Finally, these two might feel a little obvious, but Edinburgh’s Hawksmoor is worth a visit for the stunning building alone. Located on St Andrew Square in a Grade A-listed former banking hall, it features light-flooded stained-glass windows depicting historic Scottish industries. The central bar is magnificent, and their Monday BYO policy is a saviour if you’re watching the budget.
Then there’s Café Royal, a true Edinburgh institution. You’ll be amongst plenty of tourists, but the Parisian-style baroque interior – adorned with gilded mirrors, beautiful old tiles, and a sprawling island bar – is exquisite. It’s perfect for a classic, knee-knocking date night over oysters, chips, and a glass of champagne.
The best Edinburgh bakeries
Edinburgh is built for wandering, though be prepared for the weather – the East Coast wind and rain take no prisoners. Warm up with great coffee and flaky pastries from Lannan in Stockbridge (arrive early – the queues are legendary), or the charmingly understated Twelve Triangles. I rarely head home without one of their award-winning sourdoughs tucked under my arm.
And for pizza? Everyone speaks highly of Civerinos. While I’ve only frequented their Glasgow outpost (which is stellar), their Edinburgh restaurants (they have a few dotted around the city) come highly recommended too.
Where to stay
The Hoxton is my default for its reasonable rates and prime Haymarket location. The rooms are stylish and unfussy – you know exactly what you’re getting – and the vast ground-floor space with its many seating options is ideal for tapping away on a laptop when I need to get some work done. Keep an eye out for some great deals too.
For something truly theatrical, it has to be The Witchery. This five-star hideaway sits in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle, accessed only by a rickety cobbled alleyway off Castlehill. Each of the nine suites are indivually designed and, to be honest, all a bit mad. Expect soldiers’ busbys tucked into corners I assumed meant to be tried on (I did), gothic beds crafted from old church pulpits, leopard print loungers, and steep spiral staircases that lead to them, which pose a legitimate health and safety hazard when hauling a suitcase up them.
Read my full review of The Witchery
It’s expensive but unforgettable, and it’s obvious why everyone from Margot Robbie to Emma Thompson has stayed there. Even if you don’t stay, book a table at their restaurant, entirely lit by candles in the evening, for a spellbinding dinner. Alternatively, escape to their sister property, Prestonfield House. Located just 15 minutes by taxi from the city centre, it sits beneath Arthur’s Seat and is surrounded by lush green fields, complete with its own Highland cattle and a resident roaming peacock. You’ll forget the city exists entirely.
Where to shop
The secret to shopping in Edinburgh is to stray from Princess Street, which tends to be dominated by tourist traps selling faux kilts and See You Jimmy hats.
Instead, visit TBCo for beautiful Scottish knits and homewares. Their monogrammed knitted neckerchiefs are a personal favourite and make a far more stylish gift than a tin of shortbread. If you’re looking for a quiet-luxury leather handbag, Strathberry is the Scottish brand creating major waves right now, and whilst expensive, they are not outrageous.
TBCo’s monogrammed knitted neckerchiefs are a personal favourite and make a far more stylish gift than a tin of shortbread.
Edinburgh Mercantile is a family-run gem focused on stylish pieces with purpose. From Scandinavian-inspired ceramics to Japanese silk-woven socks in vibrant pop colours, you’ll easily find something for everyone on your list (including yourself).
For vintage, Armstrong & Son in the Old Town is iconic; I bought my first piece there at 17 and haven’t stopped going back. It’s also worth spending an afternoon exploring the charity shops in Stockbridge – an affluent neighbourhood means exceptional secondhand finds.
Armstrong & Son in the Old Town is iconic; I bought my first vintage piece there at 17 and haven’t stopped going back.
Where to visit
Honestly? Just walk. From the dramatic Castle that overlooks everything to the moody Gothic architecture, the cobbled winding streets and mind-boggling street levels of the Old Town, to the cinematic vistas along the Royal Mile, and the charming Greyfriars Bobby terrier statue (stop to rub his nose for good luck), Edinburgh is a city made for getting lost in.
For galleries, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery is a must, while the National Museum of Scotland is a rainy-day saviour for the whole family. Dovecot Studios is a fantastic smaller space celebrating contemporary textiles, art, and design, frequently hosting smaller but interesting fashion exhibitions.
The whole of August is chaos with the Fringe Festival, but it is so worth it for the wonderfully weird and whackiness of it all.
My personal favourite, however, is the National Galleries of Scotland. It houses one of my all-time favourite portraits: John Singer Sargent’s Lady Agnew of Lochnaw. There’s just something so mesmerising about it, and I have returned countless times to take it in. Top tip: if you visit in January, the gallery displays its rare Turner watercolours collection, a tradition treasured by many local Scots.
And then, of course, there’s The Fringe Festival. Throughout August, the city transforms into the epicentre of the global arts scene. It gets crowded, but catching world-renowned comedy, theatre, cabaret, and radical new artists makes the chaos worthwhile. It’s undoubtedly the most expensive time to visit – and securing hotel rooms or dinner reservations requires planning – but it’s an experience like no other.
