What It’s Like To Have Lunch At A Triple Michelin Restaurant
There are 156 triple Michelin-starred restaurants in the world, 6 of which are in London, 1 of which I went to for lunch last week. Hélène Darroze at The Connaught sits proudly in the centre of Mayfair, the heart of The Connaught hotel, one of the most prestigious institutions in London.
Hélène Darroze at The Connaught is a testament to how fine dining can be approachable if it is made to relate rather than to create distance.
Mallory, Junior Food & Drink Editor
What sets it apart
What doesn’t set it apart? First of all, it is rare that you can visit a triple Michelin and have the opportunity to order for yourself. Last month, Hélène Darroze at The Connaught launched their à la carte menu, seasonal and changing fine dining that remains personal and warm, comfortable in nature as you control your order, although still completely distinct in its identity.
Hélène herself, whom I had the pleasure of interviewing inside the kitchen (pinch me), is a warm and refreshingly feminine energy; an energy that seeps through the walls of her dining room, which she remodelled herself. Light woods with intricate mouldings and pastel oranges. Damien Hirst’s hanging from the walls and tables with playful red legs. Plates in oyster-like shapes, bowls each handmade and water glasses moulded to fit the palm in a thoughtful, human way.
It is almost emotional the level of thought that goes into a production like this, and that is not true with all triples, doubles, singles… it is not true with just any restaurant. This place felt as though it was created to cushion the diner, to comfort, to sink in, to stain.
Last month, Hélène Darroze at The Connaught launched their à la carte menu, seasonal and changing fine dining that remains personal and warm, comfortable in nature as you control your order, although still completely distinct in its identity.
What we ordered
I’m here to sell you on the à la carte menu specifically, firstly because that’s all I know and secondly because I believe there is something to be said about experiencing this sort of grandeur in such a comfortable, dare I say humble, display. Three sections — starters, mains, desserts – and wine pairings. That said, I’m a sharer, so two of each.
£28 for this; they probably could’ve charged more for the outright artistry of it all.
To begin, I tried the Gers tomato and the Kyle of Lochalsh scallop. There is no winner here. How does one mere slice of a tomato stand out so loudly? With Pantelleria capers, lemon verbena and pimieno del piquillo. £28 for this; they probably could’ve charged more for the outright artistry of it all. The scallop, on the other hand, is how this restaurant sets itself apart from being “just French”. Inspired by Hélène’s travels to India with tandoori spices, carrot, citrus and coriander. A bite that could launch ships.
For a main, we ordered a sharer… Les Landes chicken for two. The chicken of the Sunday, inspired by Hélène’s family Sunday roasts. But, as executive chef Marco Zampese told me: “In fine dining we always try to find the extra step to make the dish more interesting.” Here’s the interesting. The chicken is stuffed with pan brioche, parmesan, girolles, garlic, shallot and foie gras, then roasted to perfection before being carted out to the table whole and carved to present the chicken breast alongside lettuce grilled on a Japanese barbecue. The carcass is then brought back down to the chicken, where the legs are then turned into a chicken taco with tarragon sauce. The breast is an explosion of rich, deep flavours reminiscent of a thick gravy but with the texture of silk. The taco, now one of my favourite tacos in London, goes at a whopping rate of £120. Please note I am saying this with £30 in my bank account; I’d go into overdraft for this.
The chicken is stuffed with pan brioche, parmesan, girolles, garlic, shallot and foie gras, then roasted to perfection before being carted out to the table whole and carved to present the chicken breast alongside lettuce grilled on a Japanese barbecue.
For dessert, there is no choice but to treat yourself to the signature baba with Armagnac Darroze, a house established by Hélène’s father. Intense, a slap in the face perhaps, but also a comforting whiff of what sent me to my Grandfathers arm chair in a cabin. It’s emotion; it’s all built on emotion.
Hélène herself, whom I had the pleasure of interviewing inside the kitchen (pinch me), is a warm and refreshingly feminine energy; an energy that seeps through the walls of her dining room…
Verdict
Hélène Darroze at The Connaught is a testament to how fine dining can be approachable if it is made to relate rather than to create distance. It is proof that it does not have to be stuffy or arrogant or boastful. It is clear and easy-to-read storytelling, an agreement between a team and it’s surrounding, whether it be a hotel, a city or nature itself.
You cook in fine dining like an author writes a book. You express yourself, you express your emotions.
Hélène Darroze
Where: The Connaught, Carlos Pl, London W1K 2AL
Website: www.maybourne.com
