Stay In a Villa on Lake Como with this Grand Hotel

Lake Como is world-famous for being one of the most breathtaking places to visit in Europe, and Villa d’Este, itself globally renowned and with a long history, is unparalleled as a place to stay there. A recent addition to their hotel is private villas that you can stay in for a secluded retreat: here’s one writer’s experience.

The location

Villa d’Este is located on Lake Como near the town of Cernobbio, around a 45-minute drive from Milan airport. Como, of course, is known worldwide for its scenic beauty and for being a magnet for the rich and famous, and it’s frankly hard to say much that hasn’t already been said about it- it’s stunning. The hotel itself does manage to feel somewhat secluded, and when you’re there, you do feel like you’re in another world, one of amazing food and perfect comfort.

The hotel itself does manage to feel somewhat secluded, and when you’re there you do feel like you’re in another world, one of amazing food and perfect comfort.

First impressions

Coming into Villa d’Este’s front gate and pulling up outside the main entrance, you immediately feel a sense of grandeur. It’s difficult to know where to look first, such are the incredible surroundings you suddenly find yourself in. The main villa building itself was constructed in the Renaissance period, has been a hotel since the 1870s, and anyone visiting can quickly see why it’s become such a hot spot destination. The main hall is a head-spinner, and everyone on the staff is very welcoming (and immaculately dressed). There are 152 rooms in Renaissance style in total, and countless paintings and antique furniture.

The villa also boasts 25 acres of park and garden land, which really shine in the sunny weather in the mornings and afternoons: you’ll be dazzled by the green, as well as eye-popping colours from the flowers, trees and plants. A large, beautiful mosaic is located close to the main restaurant. Alfred Hitchcock shot one of his earliest films here, and you can see why it would look good as a backdrop in a film. After dropping off our bags in our private villa (more on that in a minute), we get a chance to immerse ourselves in these surroundings with a delicious lunch by the lake at the Canova Bar and Terrace, as perfect an introduction to the villa as you can hope for.

The villa

The Villa Garravo is a way to get a more private experience at Villa d’Este, a secluded villa located on the hotel’s grounds but just a couple of minutes walk from the main hotel. It was built in the 1800s, and recently totally renovated- it’s now a perfect place for large groups to stay during their Lake Como retreat. There’s another “wow” moment upon walking in, as you’re met with the large and spacious living area, which is a perfect place to unwind in the evening with your party on the plush sofas and chairs. Beyond it is a dining room with views that overlook the garden and lake, which, when we ate there on the first night, provided an intimate and warm atmosphere. There’s also a fully equipped kitchen should you want to prepare your own meals. Downstairs, there’s a basement den area where you can play music, watch TV or just relax, and a small gym for a quick morning workout.

The rooms of the Villa Garrovo are equally nice, and I found mine, which was located on the top floor, a wonderful place to stay. It certainly felt like I was spending each night in a place of elegance, with everything you could hope for in a hotel (or villa) room, and more. The rooms feel suitably European, with an old-fashioned quality that goes beyond the Renaissance styles- each one has a lock and key rather than a keycard. I noticed that the cupboards and wardrobes manage to pack a lot into seemingly a small space, meaning you don’t ever feel cramped. I’m not a morning person, but every time I woke up here, I opened the curtains to let the sun stream in as much as possible to enjoy the room fully. The ensuite bathroom is also amazing, and everyone in my group agreed the baths in their rooms were perfect.

I’m not a morning person, but every time I woke up here I opened the curtains as soon to let the sun stream in as possible to enjoy the room fully.

The food

Put on any TV travelogue about Italy and two things will make you want to book a flight from your sofa: the scenery and the food. At Villa d’Este, the scenery is covered by simple virtue of being on Lake Como, but the food is also fabulous. The hotel’s kitchen team is headed by the executive chef, Michael Zambini, who showed us where the culinary magic is made. Whether you’re eating in a private villa, on the main terrace outside the hotel next to the lake, or in the main restaurant, Veranda, you’re going to be having an exquisite meal.

The lunch that I ate on the day of arrival by the lake was a club sandwich, or rather four club sandwiches on a plate, along with a helping of chips. It was easily one of the best sandwiches I’d ever eaten- and if you visit, I’d also highly recommend the whiskey-based Eccolo cocktail, which has a creamy foam on top with some kind of golden glitter. There are plenty of other lunch options, including some of the best pasta or pizza you’ll try if you want the classic Italian experience.

Veranda is the hotel’s main food attraction, located in the very regally named Cardinal Building, and with a panoramic view of the gardens and lake. You can eat here for breakfast, lunch and dinner, but it comes alive in the evening. The style and atmosphere are quite traditional, making for elegant dining, but the food is more of a mix of tradition and modernity. We were expertly guided during our evening by the maître, who gave personalised dish recommendations and even a bite-sized Italian lesson.

My starter was a delicious confit egg yolk, with Jerusalem artichoke and even some Kaluga caviar. I opted for pasta for the main course, which was spaghetti with a tinge of lemon with anchovies on top, which was unsurprisingly delicious. For dessert, I had what was essentially a deconstructed apple tart, and it was also excellent. You’re spoilt for wine choice at the Villa, since the hotel’s cellar holds the largest wine collection in Italy- a fact which, as you walk around the hotel grounds, begins to make total sense.

Other things to do

While much of my trip was spent eating some incredible food, there are plenty of activities you can get up to if it takes your fancy. Of course, you’ll find yourself drawn to the lake itself, and Villa d’Este arranges boat trips which give you a once-in-a-lifetime tour of Como and its famously mesmerising scenery. Unfortunately for us, the weather was a bit drizzly when we set off on our boat journey, but such is the lake’s views that it hardly made a difference, and when the sun eventually came out, it made the experience all the more memorable. You can even see Lake Como from above on a seaplane tour. We also visited the delightful Harry’s Bar, which is located in Cernobbio and was recently made part of the Villa d’Este group. It’s another great place for eating (I had curried prawns, the house special), and allows you to feel a little more connected to the local area.

For those looking to maintain their fitness regime, Villa d’Este has a sporting club with a fully equipped gym, a swimming pool, a squash court and more, and you can also play golf and tennis on the grounds. If you want some me time, there’s wellness facilities with a spa, beauty centre and Turkish baths. Take a dip also in the world’s first floating swimming pool, or just sit and chill on one of the sun loungers.

Getting there

As mentioned earlier, Villa d’Este is around a 45-minute drive from Milan Malpense Airport, tucked in Cernobbio, close to the Swiss border. Luckily, the journey there is beautifully scenic, and driving into Lake Como for the first time is an amazing experience. There are taxi services available from the airport, and should you need them, more detailed instructions on how to reach the hotel on the Villa d’Este website.

The verdict

Villa d’Este is such a magnificent hotel, which has built up such a reputation for itself over the decades it’s been open, that it’s impossible to say no if you get the chance to visit. Staying in one of the private villas allows you to experience the hotel in a different way, one that offers more seclusion and exclusivity. It’s perfect for large groups (which is definitely the intention) and the staff are excellent at attending to your needs even when you’re not staying in the main hotel. I expected a good time at Villa d’Este, and I got a good time- often exceeding my expectations. For me, it was my introduction to Lake Como, one that will be hard to beat if I’m lucky enough to get back there, and the food served at Veranda was a real highlight.