Is London’s Hottest New Restaurant, Nina, Worth The Hype?
London has, to my knowledge, roughly a million great Italian restaurants, which makes it difficult for any new ones to really make a splash. And yet, Nina, which opened in March in the heart of Marylebone, has already become one of London’s hottest bookings. It’s a place where having a reservation already constitutes an in-the-know cultural signifier akin to a Mubi subscription or Barry Can’t Swim tickets, and is already running amok on TikTok.
As part of the Pachamama Group, it does have the advantage of having crucial knowledge of how to open a buzzy restaurant in this economy. From the Peruvian Pachamama to more recent Greek openings, Zephyr and Bottarga, it hasn’t had a miss yet, but Nina might be its most raucous opening.
What sets it apart?
The menu is great. On the surface, a strange thing to notice, but it’s perfectly sized. Carefully considered and not suffering from bloat, with enough to already plan your order when you return. It also does the smart thing of not trying to be a London-based Italian purporting to transport you to Puglia or the Amalfi coast – an admirable but drowned (literally) concept. Instead, it feels like a drinking den during Milan or Florence fashion weeks. It sits underground in a constantly buzzing atmosphere of low lighting, white tablecloths, and deliberately mismatched interior design featuring leopard-print and unplastered walls.
It feels like a drinking den during Milan or Florence fashion week
Start from the ‘tini’ section on the menu, where you can choose a selection of miniature cocktails (something yours truly predicted back in December). They are especially perfect if, like me, you prefer the idea of a martini to the reality.
By the time I was popping the olive at the bottom of the empty glass in my mouth, the reality still hadn’t set in. Plus, it’s a very cost-effective amount of alcohol at just £7 per glass.
What we ordered
Beginning with house focaccia is a strong start – warm, airy, ever so slightly charred and served with indulgent parmesan butter, it takes significant mental restraint not to request a whole loaf. The starters are filled with their own twist on classics, from beef carpaccio and anchovy bruschetta to cured wagyu. The arancini has a claim to being the star, though, with a crunchy outer shell giving way to creamy, cheesy filling.
Take a glance at the restaurant’s tagged photos on Instagram, and the hero dish becomes clear. The bluefin tuna e melone is a fun concept and is undeniably pretty, but for our money, the yellowtail crudo with straciatella and jalapeno is the true star of the raw section; creamy, zingy, spicy and delicious.
Take a glance at the restaurant’s tagged photos on Instagram, and the star dish becomes clear
Pasta and mains are split into different sections on the menu, as every Italian restaurant should be, and for us, the real quality lies outside the pasta section here. The pasta is good, and at just £12 for its signature spaghetti with tomato sauce, it does nicely as an indulgent side, but ordering pasta as a main in a restaurant just never feels like enough. Instead, look to the mains section. You can’t go wrong with the chilli and lemon-infused grilled prawns, and the chicken milanese, arriving on a next-door neighbour’s table with another giant dollop of parmesan butter, was immediately bookmarked for follow-up visits. A super-fresh raddichio salad with a honey-mustard dressing adds a bright intermission.
But you’re going to want to leave room for dessert at Nina’s. As ever with an Italian, the pressure is on with the tiramisu, and they’ve gone all out. Frankly, it’s enough for four people, and feels like it comes soaked in an extra half-litre of booze with rewarding results.
The verdict
Nina has opened like a whirlwind, and it feels like it – there is a slight air of frenzy to the service, and table turnover feels quite quick, especially when ideally you’d need half an hour for the tiramisu. We weren’t rushed through our meal, but the friend who dined with me had been on another visit the week prior. But when buzz is the key to survival, it’s understandable for a place that’s just opened.
The results are an effortlessly trendy restaurant and a winning menu full of interesting and delicious dishes. London’s place to be seen this summer would be just as worthwhile, even if you couldn’t show off about it, but it does help.
Where: 18 Thayer St, London W1U 3JY
Website: www.nina.london.com
