Tatar Bunar: This New London Restaurant Champions Ukrainian Food and Craft

What sets it apart

Named after Alex’s hometown of Tatarbunary in southern Ukraine, the food at Tatar Bunar reflects decades-old family traditions with a menu led by Alex’s mother’s recipes. We visited on a busy Friday evening when the restaurant was just about a month into opening, and already, every table was occupied.

The interiors immediately grab your attention as you walk in. Designed by I Am Design, soothing colours are interrupted by colourful carpets with handcrafts that champion local artists from Ukraine.

You can also spot handmade clay tiles made by Ukrainian ceramicist Svetlana Sholomitska that have been handcrafted during the blackouts in Kyiv. You’ll find reclaimed oak wood from Eastern Europe’s Carpathian mountains, and Bulgarian stone, with vintage Ukrainian rugs on the walls.

The interiors champion local artists and craftsmen from Ukraine.

There are photos of Alex’s family on the walls, with a gorgeous olive tree sitting at the heart of the restaurant. Everything feels very luxe but also homey and inviting, with generous portions of food that you’d feel guilty wasting even a morsel of.

Our experience

We sat outside in the courtyard that’s equipped to seat twenty guests. Considering we had never eaten traditional Ukrainian food before, I let the staff take the lead when it came to what we should order, and I would recommend doing the same if you’re new to the cuisine as well. The menu is designed for sharing, and you can easily go through 5 or 6 dishes between two people.

With the open kitchen and the ceramics, the place just invites lingering conversation and easy chatter.

With the open kitchen and the ceramics, the place just invites lingering conversation and easy chatter, while you dig into your sharing plates. It feels more like an elevated living room than a restaurant, and possibly the reason why we happily ended up spending about three hours over dinner.

The middle plates, recommended by our server, had a healthy combination of veggie and meat options. We ordered the potato latkes with wild mushrooms and the minced meat varenyky – these are traditional dumplings served with smoked sour cream and pickled tomato sauce. The dumplings are absolutely delicious and melt in your mouth, and there’s a veggie option with cabbage.

The middle plates, recommended by our server, had a healthy combination of veggie and meat options.

Next, our choices from the grill menu appeared – we went with the Bessarabian wagyu, which is basically layered beef, lamb and eggplant. The meat is tender, succulent and lightly flavoured, and the dishes are just large enough to fill you up while also leaving room for dessert. Speaking of, don’t miss the crème brulee varenyk, baked in custard with sweet cottage cheese and homemade sour cream.

A special mention must be made for the wine list, which features a curated selection of wines from local Ukrainian producers, handpicked by Anna and Alex. We ordered a glass each, then instantly regretted not getting a whole bottle to share.

The verdict

Tatar Bunar feels especially personal and occupies its own little bubble in the heart of Shoreditch. It’s the kind of place one would visit for a special occasion with the family or your close friends, but it’s equally great for a solo dinner or a first date. It’s a restaurant where the interiors might be tempted to steal the show, but once you start eating, you’ll find dishes stealing all the limelight. But most importantly, it’s the kind of place that will instantly pop into your head when someone asks you for a restaurant recommendation in London.