“I’m Calling It: Bistro Sablé Is London’s Coolest New Date Night Spot”
As an editor who regularly reviews restaurants, you’re not always walking into a place willing it to win you over – especially when it’s taken over from somewhere you loved. Smokehouse was one of my regulars, the kind of spot that quietly became part of my routine. So when I heard it was being reborn as Bistro Sablé, a new French bistro in Islington, I went in curious, a bit sceptical, and not entirely ready to move on. Here’s how it went…
What sets it apart
Bistro Sablé isn’t trying to be some big ‘special occasion only’ restaurant. It’s going for ‘relaxed neighbourhood French spot’, and it really works. The room still has that familiar Canonbury warmth, but now it feels like a cosy corner of Paris: bistro chairs, white tablecloths, warm lighting and little French touches dotted around. Plus, the roaring fires make a big impact when escaping from a cold winter’s night. It’s pretty without being precious, and it instantly feels like the kind of place you’d suggest for a low-key date night or an easy midweek dinner.
The room still has that familiar Canonbury warmth, but now it feels like a cosy corner of Paris.
Natasha, Digital Editor
The team are just as inviting. The welcome is friendly, chatty and genuinely warm. Chef Bobby Brown (Executive Chef at Bistro Sablé, Pig & Butcher, and more) talks about how they’ve been open just a few weeks and are already getting great feedback, and you can tell he means it. There’s none of that opening-phase stiffness; it already feels like somewhere with a bit of rhythm, rather than a work in progress.
What we ordered
Things start on a very promising note with the complimentary bread and butter – properly tasty, the kind that makes you instantly more optimistic about everything that comes next. Then the oysters arrive and they’re basically faultless. Sourced and handled with care, they’re cold, fresh and fleshy, with zero impurities or grit. They’re so clean and precise they almost feel “edited” – like someone has removed every flaw and left you with the ideal version of an oyster.
The French onion soup is exactly what you want on a chilly London evening. Chef Bobby tells us it took them three months to get it right, and you can tell. It’s rich and comforting without being overpowering, and you can really taste the onions rather than just salt. The cheese-topped bread on top melts down into the soup just enough, so every spoonful is a mix of soft bread, cheese and deep, savoury broth.
The French onion soup is exactly what you want on a chilly London evening. Chef Bobby tells us it took them three months to get it right.
The cheese soufflé is already a favourite with regulars, and it’s easy to see why. It arrives puffed and golden, with a gorgeous texture – light and cloud-like, yet still satisfying. The cheese flavour is there, sharp and savoury, but not so strong as to take over. It just sort of melts away in your mouth, leaving you wanting another forkful.
If you’re a beef bourguignon person, you’re in safe hands here. The beef is tender and falls apart, with a glossy, red wine sauce that’s rich without being too heavy. Little sweet carrots and mini onions cut through the richness, keeping it all feeling balanced rather than stodgy. Portions are generous too, in that “I really don’t need dessert, but I’m definitely still ordering it” way.
The bouillabaisse-style seafood dish is another highlight. You get a mix of fish and shellfish in a silky, bisque-like sauce – think mullet, mussels and white fish, all soaking up a saffron-rich broth. There are potatoes in there too, and a hit of red pepper that adds just enough brightness and lift. The garlic bread on the side is exactly what you want: perfect for dragging through the sauce until the bowl is basically clean.
Crème brûlée sounds simple, but getting a really good one in London is surprisingly rare.
Crème brûlée sounds simple, but getting a really good one in London is surprisingly rare. Bistro Sablé nails it. The top has that very important crack when you tap your spoon, and underneath is a smooth, rich vanilla custard that feels properly indulgent without being too sweet. The caramelised top has a slightly biscuit-y, toasty character that keeps each bite interesting.
If you’re more of a chocolate person, the dark chocolate and cherry dessert will make you very happy. The mousse itself is light but not airy to the point of nothingness – it has enough body to feel satisfying, and it finishes in a smooth line across your tongue. The cherry sauce is sweet and bright, cutting through the chocolate without making the whole thing sickly. It’s a classic pairing, done really well, and it quietly nudges you into taking just one more spoonful.
The verdict
Walking into the old Smokehouse site, it would’ve been very easy to spend the whole evening mentally comparing the two. But Bistro Sablé earns its place on this corner of Islington. It feels relaxed and welcoming, the kind of spot you could just as easily book for a third date as a catch-up with a friend who “just wants somewhere nice, not try-hard”. The cooking is confident and comforting, with those little details – from flawless oysters to that deeply soothing onion soup and proper French puddings – that make you want to come back.
The cooking is confident and comforting, with those little details – from flawless oysters to that deeply soothing onion soup and proper French puddings – that make you want to come back.
If you loved Smokehouse, you’ll probably still have a twinge of nostalgia walking past. But give Bistro Sablé a fair shot and it has every chance of becoming your new go-to: a pretty, low-key French bistro that quietly makes a case for being one of London’s coolest new date night spots.
where: 63-69 Canonbury Rd, London N1 2DG
website: www.bistrosable.co.uk
