Inside A Mayan Retreat Deep Within The Yucatán Jungle

You might look at the Yucatán peninsula, curling up towards the Caribbean, and think a coastal retreat is the best course of action. But here, many of its treasures and secrets lie further inland. Chablé is nestled in the Yucatán jungle, in the heart of the Mayan world that extended south to Belize and Guatemala. Sun-baked ruins and cavernous cenotes lie amid old colonial towns, and the region is rich for both cultural and culinary exploration. I arrived at the sprawling estate towards the end of a frenetic two-week trip throughout Mexico, and got a lot more than I expected.

What sets it apart

Chablé has a legitimate claim to be the most luxurious hotel in the Yucatán peninsula, and surely the most sprawling. The jungle paradise is set within a former 19th-century hacienda, amid mystical cenotes, old colonial towns and Mayan ruins nearby. Spanning 750 acres, the property has been painstakingly restored to integrate with the surrounding forest and Mayan heritage.

It was the first of three hotels Chablé has opened in Mexico, followed by two in the neighbouring state of Quintana Roo at Punta Maroma and the Sian Ka’an Biosphere, with more planned in the coming years. The history of the site has remained: the original main hacienda has been restored and is now your first point of contact when you enter, and the machine hall has been turned into the fine-dining restaurant Ixi’im.

First impressions

Most travellers arrive from Mérida, about a 45-minute drive away, but it feels far more remote than that. Yucatán deer and large iguanas graze and sunbathe casually, and tropical birds fly overhead. There are 41 private casitas which, thanks to the density of the forest, feel incredibly private.

I was there in May, a month of remorseless heat and perspiration, with temperatures levelling out at 38 degrees Celsius. After hearing I had arrived from Mérida, a local lovingly described it as “the most beautiful furnace in the world”. But thanks to the density of the foliage it was easy to stay comfortable, even at its most challenging time.

Mérida is just 45-minutes drive away, but it feels far more remote than that.

The rooms

While the main hotel lobby and concierge building have kept the old Hacienda style intact, for the casitas, Chablé adopted a modern approach. Designed by Mexican architect Jorge Borga, each room has a private pool and an open plan with views of the dense jungle landscape. You have both an indoor and outdoor shower, and the outdoor shower feels so in the elements that I was never quite brave enough to try it.

Food & drink

As with any trip to Mexico, food is going to be a highlight. You have two main options at Chablé: Ki’ol, the more casual offering which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, and Ixi’im, a fine-dining experience with a constantly changing menu and creative interpretations of local classics. The Yucatán has its own cuisine distinctive within Mexico.

As with any trip to Mexico, food is going to be a highlight.

Ki’ol

Ki’ol – which translates to healthy in Mayan – is where breakfast is served each day by the pool, and is also a great place to explore traditional Mayan dishes for lunch and dinner.

Expect sopa de lima, a Yucatán-style lime soup with turkey breast, Panuchos, fried tortillas stuffed with refried beans, pickled red onions, coriander and smoked pork, and the most iconic dish of the region, Conchinita Pibil. Pork is marinated in a smoky citrus sauce before being wrapped in banana leaves and sealed underground under a layer of coal. Served with tortillas, the result is delicious and acceptable to eat at any time of the day.

Ix’im

Ixi’im is a destination entirely in of itself – lots of diners weren’t even guests at the hotel, but had come solely for the restaurant. With a strong focus on seasonal cuisine, they offer both a la carte and a tasting menu with either wine, tequila or non-alcoholic pairings. Tequila, especially, is taken extremely seriously, and the restaurant is adorned with a staggering collection of over 3,500 tequila bottles.

The tasting menu was full of highlights, from fish chicharrón with fermented chilli sauce, truly delicious short rib in black mole and a risotto with pibil-style venison. I didn’t opt for the full tequila pairing, and the force with which the one sample I did try knocked me back made me appreciate and regret my decision in equal measure. If you are staying in Chablé, a night in Ixi’im is definitely a must and a special evening.

Facilities

Health and wellness are a major focus in Chablé’s offering, with ancient Mayan rituals and treatments playing a key role. You can opt for any of the 3 spa ‘journeys’, each drawn from ancient treatment and led by Mayan wellness experts. One particularly unique experience is the temazcal, a sweat lodge used by Mayans to purify mind, body and soul. There is also a cenote on the estate, which plays a vital role in Mayan religion as a portal to the underworld. Make no mistake – this place is ideal to unwind in, but it is also a fascinating way to learn about the culture and heritage of the Yucatán peninsula.

If keeping active is your thing, the estate has tennis and padel courts, a gym and even a nine-hole pitch and putt course that is in pristine condition. Most activities you can either book yourself or simply walk up to, but there is also a daily schedule to keep in mind. This might be anything from traditional Mayan rituals, yoga, a round of golf, tequila tasting or a cooking class.

On my first morning, instead of venturing to Ki’ol for breakfast, I cooked my own with the help of one of the chefs, following traditional Mayan techniques. After selecting ingredients from the garden, I made – or attempted to make – fresh salsa and guacamole with fried tacos and empanadas. I was told that when a prospective romantic partner was brought back to the household, your eligibility as a son-in-law was heavily judged by your ability in the kitchen, and specifically in rolling a taco. My skills aren’t acceptable yet.

Chablé also boasts something of its own ecosystem. There is a farm on site with pigs, horses and rabbits, and a meliponario, where stingless bees are reared and produce several types of honey. The deer on-site are also part of a reintroduction scheme.

Chablé also boasts something of it’s own eco-system

What to do nearby

There are two ways to approach a stay at Chablé. You could do as I did, using it as a place to relax and unwind after two weeks of travelling through Mexico. Or you could use it as a base from which to explore the Yucatán peninsula at large. I would suggest the first option – once you pass through the front gates, you might never want to leave. The area is so rich and there is so much to do, from ancient Mayan sites like Chichen Itza and Uxmal, colonial towns like Mérida and Valladolid, and cenotes. Exploring the region first before relaxing at Chablé is the best way to approach things.

Verdict

What stands out about Chablé Yucatán is how integrated it is with the region and its history. Yes, it is a resort, with private pools, tennis courts, a golf course and room service. But it’s also a place to learn about Mayan culture, cuisine, and ancient healing ceremonies. As well as being lovely, the staff are all extremely well-informed and eager to share their knowledge of the region with guests.

Getting there

Travelling through Mérida is the most convenient and common way to access Chablé, and is just a 40-minute drive away. Uber is the cheapest way at roughly £20, and I had no problem getting one from the centre. To get to Mérida, there is an airport mainly for internal flights, or if you’re travelling internationally, it is easily accessible from Cancun via bus.