Somewhere along the way, lunch lost its oomph. What was once an excuse to escape the office, take a break over good food and catch up with colleagues has become a rushed sandwich between meetings or a sad desk salad eaten while replying to emails. I’m certainly guilty of it myself. But after spending a lunch at Bread Street Kitchen & Bar at 22 Bishopsgate, I’m convinced it’s time to bring back the long lunch.

In Partnership With Gordon Ramsay Restaurants

Now, I’m not entirely suggesting we resurrect the infamous three-martini lunch (although a cocktail certainly doesn’t hurt). Instead, I’m talking about reclaiming lunch as a proper pause in the day. Somewhere you can step away from your screen, order something you actually want to eat and use your contractual break in the day to experience some of London’s best contributions.

Perched 59 floors above the City, Bread Street Kitchen & Bar feels remarkably removed from the chaos below.

Mallory, Junior Food & Drink Editor

The view alone

Perched 59 floors above the City, Bread Street Kitchen & Bar feels remarkably removed from the chaos below. Looking out across the skyline, the buses are reduced to tiny moving dots, the Thames winds quietly through the capital and landmarks like The Shard become part of the interior design.

It was an afternoon where the restaurant was bathed in golden light, every table seemed full, and everyone looked happy to be exactly where they were. Despite being in the heart of the City, you almost forget where you are, distracted instead by panoramic views stretching across London. It’s difficult to rush through lunch when the view is this enamoring.

What to order

The menu suits the occasion perfectly. We started with oysters, something that immediately signals this isn’t going to be a meal eaten with one eye on your inbox. There’s something very indulgent about ordering half a dozen oysters in the middle of the day, especially when they’re accompanied by a panoramic view of London stretching out beneath you. From there came the fish and chips, and it was everything you’d hope for. The batter was crisp with every bite, giving way to beautifully flaky fish, while chunky chips and tartare sauce made for the kind of comforting plate that remained quite luxe in presentation.

We started with oysters, something that immediately signals this isn’t going to be a meal eaten with one eye on your inbox…

Crucially, it avoided that post-lunch slump. The portion was generous without leaving me desperate for an afternoon nap, striking just the right balance between satisfying and surprisingly light. Alongside it, a French 75 felt like the right kind of splurge; bright, citrusy, strong, enough to lean into the occasion without tipping it into excess. It’s a lunch you can stretch, where one drink another… or perhaps just a coffee.

We need to slow down

What I enjoyed most wasn’t necessarily one standout dish, though the fish and chips deserve a mention. It was the feeling that nobody was in a hurry. Tables were relaxed, conversations were easy, and the afternoon unfolded at its own pace as the sunlight poured through the floor-to-ceiling windows. In a city that so often celebrates being busy, there was something refreshing about simply sitting still above all the noise. Perhaps that’s the real luxury at Bread Street Kitchen & Bar. Not just the food or the view, but the allowance to slow down.

In a city that so often celebrates being busy, there was something refreshing about simply sitting still above all the noise.

Verdict

If you’re looking for somewhere to impress clients, celebrate a birthday or tick another restaurant off your list, Bread Street Kitchen & Bar certainly delivers. But I’d come for something much simpler than that. I’d come for a breather above the city; a place where lunch becomes the highlight of the day instead of something to squeeze between meetings. The three-martini lunch may belong to another era, but perhaps the message of it deserves a comeback; the message to slow down. And if it does, I can’t think of many better places to start than 59 floors above London.

I’d come for a breather above the city; a place where lunch becomes the highlight of the day instead of something to squeeze between meetings.

Where: Floor 59, 22 Bishopsgate, London, EC2N 4AJ
Website: www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com


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