We Reviewed The Ultimate Photography Retreat At Skye’s Magical Kinloch Lodge
The Handbook’s Contributing Fashion & Lifestyle Editor, Astrid Carter, recently headed north to Scotland’s ‘Misty Isle’ – the iconic Isle of Skye. Amidst the thick fog, imposing hills, and the brutal yet beautiful Highland weather, she found a ray of sunshine: Kinloch Lodge.
This is a rare gem of a boutique hotel steeped in rich family lineage, incredible seasonal cuisine and a level of warm Scottish service that is truly unparalleled. And beyond the roaring fires and the wee drams, she was also there to experience the hotel’s immersive new photography retreat. Here is what she thought…
What sets it apart
I’ve lived in Scotland for the best part of four years, yet I had never travelled to the Isle of Skye – a regret that now runs deep after staying at the island’s most sought-after sanctuary, Kinloch Lodge. Perched on a private patch of Loch na Dal, the hotel is a remote gem that feels worlds away from everyday life.
Outside, you are at the mercy of Skye’s unapologetic weather; in a single day, the landscape shifts from haunting mist and drizzle to full-on snowstorms, ending perhaps in a golden dusting of sunlight dappling off the water, if you’re lucky. But inside those white-washed walls, pure magic happens.
Kinloch is steeped in rich family lineage, incredible seasonal cuisine & a level of warm Scottish service that is truly unparalleled.
Astrid, Contributing Fashion & Lifestyle Editor
What sets Kinloch apart is that it isn’t just a hotel; it is a living history book. Whilst many country hotels rely on the proverbial tartan wallpaper, stag heads and faux vintage portraits, Kinloch is the real deal. Opened in 1972 by Godfrey, the 8th Lord Macdonald (the 35th High Chief of his clan) and his wife Claire, the lodge has long been considered a class act of hospitality and culinary excellence. Claire’s career as a renowned cookery writer essentially put Skye on the global gastronomic map, too, and that DNA can still be felt in the food today – more on that later.
Whilst many country hotels rely on the proverbial tartan wallpaper, stag heads and faux vintage portraits, Kinloch is the real deal.
Having taken on many guises pre being a working hotel – from farmhouse and hunting lodge to a family home – the building breathes storytelling. It manages to feel both special and a home-from-home all at once.
Today, that magic is down to Isabella, Lord Macdonald’s daughter, who is now at the helm. I have never experienced such warm, attentive hosting. While she was – quite literally – born for this, she has evolved the role into something that transcends the typical five-star hotel experience.
Whether it’s remembering every guest’s name (not just a handful of lucky travel journalists), ensuring you have the right boots to take on the neighbouring Cuillin Hills – and, as if by magic, sourcing a pair if you don’t – or candidly sharing stories of her family’s impressive lineage, she is the heartbeat of the lodge. Whether she’s inviting you to enjoy a well-earned dram or a nap in front of the fire after coming in from the cold, Isabella offers a rare blend of ancestral heritage and genuine family warmth. It is this personal touch that transforms Kinloch from a mere place to stay into a place of pure magic.
The Highlands & Islands are not the easiest corners of Scotland to reach, but worth every mile.
The location
The Highlands and Islands are not the easiest corners of Scotland to reach. If you’re driving from Glasgow or Edinburgh, you’re looking at a five-hour trip; even from Inverness Airport, the local hub, it’s a two-and-a-half-hour journey. It is, however, worth every mile. The drive feels cinematic, taking you from city to Lowlands, and onwards into the heart of the Highlands and beyond. We wound through tree-lined roads and rolling hills, spotted crumbling castle ruins and the iconic waters of Loch Ness along the way. Despite its wild reputation, Skye is, without doubt, the most accessible of the Hebrides thanks to the Skye Bridge, which has been a game-changer since it opened in 1995. It removes the faff of ferries, though it does mean the island gets very busy in the warmer summer months.
Kinloch Lodge itself is tucked away in a quiet southern pocket of the island, the Sleat Peninsula. It’s often referred to as ‘the Garden of Skye’ thanks to its lush greenery and less brutal coasts. Once you arrive, it feels as though there is nothing but the hills, the stags (if you’re lucky enough to spot one camouflaged in the terrain), and a literal Scottish safari surrounding you – I spotted everything from golden eagles and otters to a couple of seals bobbing in the loch. The Scottish countryside here is truly unmatched; its misty romance and dramatic peaks sitting above the clouds feel all-encompassing. It’s a character in its own right – both humbling and totally awe-inspiring.
The rooms
There are eight rooms in the main house and another ten in the lodge, which sits further down towards the loch, all of which are individually designed and on a rolling renovation. I stayed in the main house in a gorgeously cosy yet spacious room with ample storage – those double wardrobes were much appreciated for stowing waterproofs, thermal layers, and clunky walking boots. Touches of velvet and tartan leaned into the Scottish spirit, perfect for a wee dram at the bar later in the evening.
Throughout the rest of the lodge, cosy drawing rooms are adorned with family portraits, historical pieces passed down through generations & impressive family trees.
The colour palette is soft, with pretty floral wallpapers and nods of umber and ochre that reflect the surrounding hills. Calming blues and greens frame the most beautiful vista of Loch na Dal straight ahead – a room that needs no art when you have that view right outside your window. It is certainly one of the prettiest sights I’ve ever woken up to.
Throughout the rest of the lodge, cosy drawing rooms are adorned with family portraits, historical pieces passed down through generations, and impressive family trees. There is the constant, comforting sound of a roaring fire and the wind lapping at the windows. Kinloch is luxe by any standard, but it has a warmth and ruggedness you won’t find in most hotels. It feels like staying at a well-to-do friend’s house for Christmas: cosy but fabulous.
Food & drink
Good food is the heart of Kinloch. Isabella has built a stellar team, led by General Manager Danny. As a qualified sommelier, his expertise is evident in the outstanding wine pairings placed in front of me at every meal. He is also incredibly knowledgeable on whisky – something that feels only natural to partake in while on a Scottish island.
Mealtimes felt like elevated family dinners, featuring some of the Highlands’ most stunning produce. We tucked into venison three ways (the tartare was a standout), local butter-poached cod peppered with brown shrimp, and local scallops – which you can occasionally see divers pulling straight from the water. The food is hearty yet refined; exactly what you crave after a day walking the hills.
Breakfasts are equally wonderful. There is no buffet here – just made-to-order, homely fare prepared with finesse. Don’t pass up the full Scottish breakfast or the smoked salmon and eggs.
Post-dinner, or after a long walk down from a munro, the firelit bar is the place to be. With walls bathed in a coral-red glow and shelves lined with books, family photos, and games, it’s the perfect spot to while away a cosy afternoon.
There is no buffet here – just made-to-order, homely fare prepared with finesse.
Things to do
Skye has firmly positioned itself on the global must-see list for those who crave the great outdoors. There is no denying that its rugged coastlines, captivating Cuillin mountains, and unapologetically hypnotising weather draw the crowds – but Kinloch Lodge offers something more. Beyond the hotel, I was here to experience a bespoke retreat that is one to bookmark if you’re after memorable and slow travel.
Kinloch has teamed up with acclaimed local photographer and author Andrew Tobin to curate a personalised experience that leaves you with more than just memories; it leaves you with a professionally documented gallery of your trip.
We began the retreat in one of Kinloch’s elegant drawing rooms, warmed by hot toddies, fresh cake, and a roaring fire that I’m pretty sure stays lit year-round. Over tea, we discussed our photography experience while Andrew shared his background capturing the island’s most majestic scenes – many of which are featured in his stunning coffee table books, Skye at Night and Glas.
As a master of the island’s secret geography, Andrew finds the hidden spots you’d never discover alone. He walked us through his kit that we’d also be using, from a stylish Leica Q3 to a Sony A7iv with a daunting 100-400mm lens (prepare to feel like a pap with that one). Despite the intimidating tech, Andrew is refreshingly realistic; he is just as happy teaching you how to get the most out of your iPhone as he is with professional kit. As a photography novice, I was initially embarrassed to show off my rusty digital-Polaroid hybrid that I’d brought along, but Andrew’s enthusiasm was calming. Much like Kinloch itself, the retreat felt warm and open-armed.
The next two days were spent immersed in the wilds of Skye. We trekked down cliffs, braving the biting wind and rain, only to watch blue skies and rainbows appear just minutes later.
Between shots, we found sanctuary in charming local haunts like The Coffee Bothy in Broadford – the perfect spot to refuel while dodging a downpour, and tucked into delicious smoked salmon sandwiches, pre-packed by the hotel’s kitchen and served straight out the back of Andrew’s Land Rover Defender.
Andrew is a natural teacher – patient, reactive, and endlessly curious. If something catches his eye, he stops to explore. It is a privileged way to see such a raw part of Scotland and, for a city girl, a necessary reminder to get out and see the natural beauty of the world whenever you can.
I was excited to learn to shoot on a professional kit, but I was probably more wowed by the skills I gained on my iPhone – a philistine, I know. While the big lens felt a bit out of my depth (not helped by my stubborn refusal to wear my glasses), coming away with new skills on a device I use every day was both brilliant.
After chasing the light to the bitter end, we returned to Kinloch to edit our photos by the fire. Naturally, greeted by Isabella and Danny (their attention to guests is unparalleled), who provided the ultimate homecoming: blankets, fresh logs on the fire, and a final round of hot toddies.
They have hit the sweet spot between five-star luxury & a totally down-to-earth atmosphere.
The verdict
Skye is an all-encompassing experience – rugged, wet, and misty, yet utterly beautiful. The people are welcoming and deeply knowledgeable about the landscape they are lucky to live in. But to retreat to the comfort of Kinloch Lodge each evening was a true privilege. They have hit the sweet spot between five-star luxury and a totally down-to-earth atmosphere.
You leave feeling properly looked after, and with a professional-grade(ish) photograph or two of your time on the Misty Isle that you’re proud enough to hang on the wall.
Getting there and booking
Daily flights to Inverness operate from various London airports. You can also get the train from Edinburgh or Glasgow to Inverness, which takes between three and three-and-a-half hours. roughly. It is then approximately a two-hour, 20-minute drive to Kinloch Lodge.
Rooms start from £500 per night, with dinner and breakfast included. Kinloch also offers a selection of curated stays such as Andrew’s photography retreat, starting from £1,320 per person for three nights, and including dinner, bed and breakfast.
Book via kinloch-lodge.co.uk.
