Moi Is Soho's Hot New Restaurant For Sushi & Cocktails

Living and working in London means you’re always on the lookout for cool, central places to meet friends. Unsurprisingly, Soho is a favourite for catch-ups – especially mid-week – but I’m often left short on options offering good food, great vibes, and a reasonable price point. So when I heard that Moi, a new Japanese restaurant, was opening with an aesthetic that looked as sharp as its cooking credentials, I was quick to book.

What sets it apart

I’m a huge fan of Japanese food, so it doesn’t take much to pique my interest on this front, but Moi does have a few notable points of difference from its counterparts.

Opening back in July, Moi is the creative endeavour of Andy Cook, former chef at the Gordon Ramsay Group. Located on Soho’s Wardour Street, you could easily miss it as you walk past the front of louder, brighter exteriors, but this spot doesn’t need to grab your attention – it earns it.

As soon as you enter, you’re met with a smooth, smokey aroma eminating from the binchotan (AKA high quality charcoal) cooking away in the robatas in the open kitchen. Far from being overpowering, the scent sets the tone for a relaxed, refined, and quality meal.

As soon as you enter, you’re met with a smooth, smokey aroma eminating from the Binchotan cooking away in the robatas…

Our experience

As you sit at your table and peruse the cocktail menu, chefs mill away in the kitchen reciting orders against the sound of the record player, creating a buzzy yet ordered atmosphere.

At the center of the restaurant sits a giant tree trunk, complementing the wooden details and earthy decor choices. From the stone-esque tableware and a selection of mismatched sake glasses (you can even pick your own glass), the aesthetic of the place has been carefully considered, especially when contrasted against details like retro-style album covers and pour-by-the-glass wine dispensers at the bar. It doesn’t take you long to realise that this is somewhere you want to be, and be seen.

What we ordered

Coming in from the London heatwave, there was no better way to start this meal than with a refreshing cocktail. Our waiter recommended the At Ease – a concoction reminiscent of an iced tea merged with a spritz – not too sweet, and finished with a sliced nectarine garnish. For whisky lovers, Them Apples is another strong contender which evenly balances both flavours harmoniously, rather than letting one overpower the other.

As for the food (i.e. the main event) we couldn’t visit without ordering the chef’s sashimi selection. You heard it here first: this is the best sashimi I’ve ever had. Featuring fresh trout, bream, hamachi, and toro tuna, these slices melt in the mouth, offering an almost buttery aftertaste.

For starters, there’s no obvious standout, as they all sound appealing, so I ordered a few. First was the smoked cod’s roe dip, served with chilli and fried steam buns. The perfect intersection of umami, saltiness, and creaminess – this is a level up on a taramasalata order, with the plate left completely clean.

Chef’s Sashimi Selection

You heard it here first: this is the best sashimi I’ve ever had.

Our waiter also recommended ordering the silken tofu with toasted buckwheat and soy sauce which, from the sound of it, doesn’t seem like a hero dish, but if you like soba then these flavours are very similar. As someone who tends to avoid silken tofu, this dish has made me seriously question this belief.

Silken Tofu

Mazara prawns

Cornish bream

Before moving on to your main, you’re encouraged to try a few small plates from the binchotan. I opted for the Mazara prawns, coated with chilli and black pepper kombu butter, along with the beef tongue served on shishito pepper and marigold miso. The prawns were small (you only receive two for £14.50) but beautifully prepared, de-shelled and finished with a rich drizzle, leaving a citrus-meet-olive oil taste on the palate. As for the beef tongue, I’m not big into this order on the best of days and, having decided to give it another go, have not changed my mind.

If you’re thinking by this point that you should have ordered some more starters, think again. Main was a whole Cornish bream teamed with langoustine sauce and pickled courgette. The sauce was rich and velvety – packed full of flavour, with an almost marmalade caramelised fruit paste on top. While I did find a few small bones, this is something I always expect to find in whole fish (and am rarely surprised to find it without).

To close, I ordered the English strawberries, with thick cream and iced sisho shaved over the top – a balance that didn’t work as well as it might’ve sounded on paper. The chocolate mousse, however, was creamy, nutty, salty, and dense treat, balanced with the Jersey milk ice cream. In truth, though, by this point in the meal, I was almost relieved I could leave something behind.

The verdict

If you’re looking for a buzzy new spot to take your mates for a nice dinner in Soho, Moi is just the ticket. Enjoy working your way through the cocktail menu as you tuck into some of the best sushi you’ll ever eat, coupled with a range of impeccable small plate starters. My top tip is to be more generous with these quantities, so you can make an incredible meal out of it, peppering in some skewers from the binchotan for a different flavour dimension.

Enjoy working your way through the cocktail menu as you tuck into some of the best sushi you’ll ever eat, coupled with a range of impeccable small plate starters.

Sure, you can add larger mains – I’d love to try the beef short rib next time I’m there – but would recommend skipping the dessert in favour of a hot Japanese tea to help digest all that incredible food.

where: 84 Wardour St, London W1F 0TQ
website: www.moirestaurant.com