The Handbook Reviews: Does This Restaurant Deserve Its New Michelin Star?
There used to be a Michelin-star restaurant in the small coastal village in West Cork I visited on childhood holidays. Classically French, it was two doors down from the corner shop which also doubled up as the only shop. I never went and, as a child, its presence in the village was a bit like the alpaca farm in Vauxhall; it’s part of the fabric so you don’t question it, but also, why is it here? At that time, it seemed like the pinnacle of dining.
Both my understanding and the general attitude of the Michelin guide have shifted significantly from my childhood belief that haute cuisine is the designated star-worthy one (hint: this couldn’t be less true). And yet, when Pavyllon appeared on the most recent list of star awardees, it unearthed this childhood fascination. I had to go.
What sets it apart
Pavyllon is the newest entry into the empire of Yannick Alleno, a chef who racks up Michelin stars as frequently and naturally as he might take the bus, and his UK debut. At the latest count, it stands at 16 stars across 17 restaurants in Paris, London, Seoul, and more. Located in the Four Seasons Hotel in Park Lane, it took just six months for this establishment to join the ranks, achieving its star in the latest round announced back in February.
As well as the food, which we will get to, certain other quirks make it stand out, such as four different categories of waiter all taking care of one particular area.
Our experience
French haute cuisine with a newly awarded Michelin star? We’re not going to lie to you, the à la carte prices are eye-watering. But, let’s be honest, if you find yourself receiving the bill and collapsing with shock, you only have yourself to blame.
Their immersive Mayfair menu, priced at £85 for four courses and £110 for six, is your officially recommended hack to knock 50 quid off the bill had you ordered the same from the menu and, all in all, pretty affordable for Michelin quality dining in Mayfair.
What we ordered
To start, a beautifully contrasting duo of a fresh, light crispy curry tartlet with scallop carpaccio followed by a rich, almost dessert-like steamed comté soufflé with a watercress coulis. As the food is delivered by the waiter, there’s a knowing air of something approaching not quite smugness, yet confidence also undersells it. Spongy, creamy, cheesy – they and us both know they have a winner on their hands.
Out next was a seared monkfish tail with black pepper oil, balanced to perfection. There is barely a grain of salt or squeeze of lemon out of place, or that doesn’t have its own designated role in adding to the dish as a whole. Ultimately, this is what takes it to the next level: an innate understanding of flavour, texture, and how to invent, construct, execute, and present a dish at the highest level. A broccoli sprouting from the earth should be so lucky as to be a part of these creations.
For dessert, it was topped off with the vaguely named Sweet Spiced Cloud – a whirl of different flavour and textures, from hazelnut praline ice cream, crunchy dark chocolate, and a coffee and cardamom sauce.
Verdict
For diners, Michelin stars are pretty much like The Oscars. Yes, in recent years there has been a genuinely admirable push for diversification in both (evidence lies in the recent shortlist). But there’s still room for catnip like Pavyllon, especially when it’s executed as flawlessly as this. If a crowd-pleasing favourite like Top Gun: Maverick is equitable to the queues at Dishoom, and your local ramen place nobody has discovered yet is like an indie film you saw at a festival that the finger-off-the-pulse Acadamy members blithely overlooked, this is the Maestro of the culinary world. Sometimes you just have to let the masters cook and, relatively speaking, there are few places you can do so for under £100.
Four Seasons at Park Lane, Hamilton Pl, London W1J 7DR
