An Honest Review Of Café Clement

And so, another celebrity restaurant hotspot drops into our laps like no big deal. Nick Jones, founder of Soho House, has stepped down from the members’ club to build St Clement, which sees all eyes on Café Clement, a spot where the likes of Stanley Tucci and Angela Hartnett (famed foodies) have already been spotted. Always sceptical of these sorts of PR pockets, I wondered how good it could actually be, so obviously I went.

In retrospect, it’s a glorious anthropological window into the lives of the rich and the famous, one that is genuinely quite inclusive, unintimidating, and a bit fun in its blurred lines.
Mallory, Junior Food & Drink Editor

What sets it apart

Café Clement is all-day dining, 7am through to 11pm, and already deemed popular for both breakfast and dinner. Popular may not be the right word… no. Café Clement deemed itself an institution the moment it opened its doors. All critics are raving, all oligarchs are booking, and all a-listers will be sauntering through that kitchen door.

Popular may not be the right word… no. Café Clement deemed itself an institution the moment it opened its doors.

Café Clement makes you feel like a rich New Yorker. Walking past suited-up doormen as you ascend stairs to reach hostesses who glide through the room to seat you. Sinking booths and silver platters, salt and pepper shakers heavier than Pilates weights, large white plates with the perfect portion so as not to fatten you up.

What we ordered

At first glance, the menu is confused. Oeuf mayonnaise but also risotto with casseroles as heroes? When was the last time I saw casserole on the menu? They sing their siren song.

The croque-monsieur was more of a ham and cheese toastie; easy to eat, a good kind of oily, nothing to ring home about, but who wouldn’t want to start a meal with it? And the Clement summer salad: peas, green beans, borlotti, and Tuscan pecorino. Am I in Italy or France right now? Don’t know, don’t really care; this was refreshing and simple. Danny Bohan’s River Café past life casts shadows on the table in this moment.

Am I in Italy or France right now? Don’t know, don’t really care.

Clement summer with peas, green beans, borlotti and tuscan pecorino (£18)

The aubergine caponata and coco blanc came in a charmingly ugly mound. I started to get it with this dish. When you are in a space that exudes such subtle, tasteful wealth, perhaps the food does not need to be so flashy in return. Perhaps it is chic to order casserole when you have a million bucks in the bank. In all fairness, the casserole was quite outstanding. Four chicken thighs beautifully browned and drowned in jus served tableside from its silver dish. Bread to soak it up, of course, but also the welcomed addition of crinkle fries – a further humble, unglamorous, delicious friend at the table – ketchup and mayo at the ready, but in silver dishes (of course).

Perhaps it is chic to order casserole when you have a million bucks in the bank. In all fairness, the casserole was quite outstanding.

Chicken & Girolles casserole with coco blanc, chardonnay and bay leaf (£28)

Aubergine caponata and coco blanc with pine nuts, celery hearts, raisins, capers and olives (£28)

Verdict

When you’re in the moment, Café Clement is a delicious experience so closely reminiscent of a childhood meal, except it is in some alternate reality where the childhood took place on the Upper East Side.

In retrospect, it’s a glorious anthropological window into the lives of the rich and the famous, one that is genuinely quite inclusive, unintimidating, and a bit fun in its blurred lines. Lobsters inside omelettes, casserole served in silver, crinkle fries and mayonnaise. Whether you are or you are not, you will agree on the capability of the kitchen, the mastery of the food. Café Clement is simply a great meal in a lavish dining room with only the best of the best in both staff and diners. It is luxury, side of fries.

Ketchup and mayo — a side to the crinkles (£7)

Café Clement is a delicious experience so closely reminiscent of a childhood meal, except it is in some alternate reality where the childhood took place on the Upper East Side.