Island King's Cross Review

King’s Cross is the latest designated ‘hub’ for restaurants, an area that’s had a lot of money pumped into it to try and turn it away from its place in the public consciousness as simply a leaping off point to head home for Christmas, get the Eurostar, or Harry Potter tourism.

It’s quietly always been a great spot for old-school pubs for those who know where to look, but the addition of Coal Drops Yard has seen big restaurant names like Barrafina, Tamila, and Evolv take up residence, and it was even named the 24th-coolest neighbourhood in the world by Time Out. The latest big-name opening hoping to capitalise on this clout is Island, a joint venture between Tom Brown and Brad Carter. It’s pitched as a ‘new’ kind of surf and turf, with seafood guru Brown handling the fish, and Doner-kebab shop owner Carter taking charge of the meat, with a heavy emphasis on British ingredients.

What sets it apart?

This is not the place for delicate, subtle flavours, or a gentle vibe. It’s pure maximalism, even verging into a Guy Fieri-‘bro’ style. The past few years have seen London taking ever more influence from New York’s dining scene, and Island does feel American. The cocktails are strong, the decor is darkly lit and yet paradoxically crammed with a massive array of kitschy lights. Most of the tables are booth-adjacent.

We visited on a more restrained Wednesday evening, but you can imagine Thursday to Saturday being full of big groups not worrying about ordering a martini or two more than they should. The beer on draught doesn’t hurt, either. All of this, so far, gives the impression of a love-or-hate kind of establishment. But, vegetarians aside, the food is pretty undeniably good, and it’s bound to carve out a wider appeal than its aesthetic might indicate.

You can imagine Thursday to Saturday being full of big groups not worrying about ordering a martini or two more than they should.

What we ordered

The menu needs some explaining. You are heavily advised to start with some oysters before moving on to a selection of ‘small islands’ (starters), skewers, and the ‘large islands’ (mains). A glance at the oyster menu sets the tone – nothing is sacred at Island. They’ll happily take fresh-as-anything oysters and pair them with lamb doner sausage or baked cheese. I kind of love the no-holds-barred attitude. The philosophy: really great produce, and as much flavour packed onto every square inch of a dish as possible.

For starters, the BBQ pork rib is rich and almost unholy in its indulgence, and as close to a must-order as there is in the section. The skewers section is also well worth a visit, and the lamb belly and clam is a standout, and not just because it rhymes.

Then, for mains, you really have to go for the mixed grill, a smorgasbord of surf and turf packed with meat and fish, and to be shared between two. Think pink lamb chops and sirloin steak, charred, zingy chicken wings, parcels of baby squid with a sobrasada sausage filling, buttery scallops in their shell, and smoky German sausage. It’s something of an onslaught, but god, it’s satisfying. If, somehow, you still have room, the dessert menu goes full-on American style. A giant chocolate fudge cake, layers and layers rising up until a salty top that brings it all together, and a baked cherry cake.

For mains, you really have to go for the mixed grill, a smorgasbord of surf and turf packed with meat and fish

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Verdict

This is not the kind of place you’re in any danger of leaving hungry – if you’re not groaning with fullness, you’ve done Island wrong. In short, Island is a loud addition to King’s Cross, and if you lean into its excess, you’ll be rewarded.