7 Noteworthy Takeaways From Phoebe Philo’s Highly-Anticipated Collection
Ever since she dropped the sartorial bombshell on her socials in June, the fashion world has been waiting with baited breath for Phoebe Philo’s inaugural collection. With countless pieces selling out in a matter of hours, it’s safe to say the British designer’s diehard “Philophiles” are still going strong. Here’s that and everything else you need to know about the new collection…
1. It’s Classic Phoebe Philo
Fashion fans have waited six years for Phoebe’s eponymously named new label, since she bowed out of her role as Creative Director at Céline – yes, when the brand still had the accent on the e. It was her time at the French fashion house that really defined her aesthetic and approach to dressing. It was all about avoiding the male gaze, women dressing for themselves, feeling empowered but comfortable, not only in their own skin but in the practicality of their wardrobes.
This mood feels very apparent in Philo’s new collection. Think strong shoulders and impeccable tailoring, a popped collar on a blouse or a fluid silk dress draped nonchalantly over the shoulders. It gives “cool-girl” which is very much Philo’s bread and butter, but there are also playful elements like full feathered trousers or sequinned frocks peppered throughout the line.
2. It’s Not Cheap
No one was expecting the sale of the century, but the Phoebe Philo debut collection is eye-wateringly expensive, we’re talking The Row or Celine prices. With a luxury label and Philo’s no holds barred approach to craftsmanship, of course, comes elevated prices, but with numbers upwards of £3k for a coat, £6k for a bag, it does put the label far out of reach for so many and feels a little disappointing – perhaps out of touch – amidst a cost of living crisis.
3. It’s Already Selling Out
Having said that, the collection is selling out fast, with many pieces already covered in a rather dramatic red shadow on the website to signify that they have already gone. It’s clear that the fashion world have been waiting to snap up a piece of Philo 2.0.
One point of difference with the new collection is that it will only ever be sold on their own website rather than opening buying up to retailers like NET-A-PORTER or luxury department stores. It’s a smart move from the designer, creating a sense of urgency around the product and another layer of exclusivity. Once the pieces are gone, they’re gone. That is until they make it onto pre-loved sites for astronomical markups.
4. It’s Incredibly Wearable
Whilst the off-white feathered trousers aren’t hugely wearable, the majority of the collection is. Philo has always championed a capsule edit and a wardrobe that works for every eventuality and this really is it. There is also a timeless elegance to they pieces that ensure they won’t date or feel less age-appropriate as you grow, whilst at the same time feeling modern and cool.
5. It’s Not Come Without Controversy
In the lead-up to the launch, stories about the lack of diversity surrounding Philo have resurfaced. Quotes from models Iman and Bethann Hardison claim that Philo has never supported Black models, refusing to cast them in her shows. Thankfully, the casting for her latest work is a step closer towards inclusivity, and we hope to see this go further as the label develops.
This is classic Philo. A collection that avoids the male gaze and champions women dressing for themselves.
6. It’s Taking A Sustainable & Ethical Approach
The Phoebe Philo site has released a document on their responsible impact towards fashion, stating that they are “determined to create a fashion house that is socially and ecologically literate,” though key areas of overconsumption, waste and the supply chain.
Whilst no new fashion is 100% sustainable, the pieces of this collection and the fact they aren’t producing on mass to sell out to other retailers does make it feel more responsible, coupled with the fact that these truly are investment, forever pieces.
7. It Will Set The Tone For Fashion’s New Mood
Philo’s time in the fashion industry has spawned immeasurable inspiration for countless brands. Current brands of the moment – The Row, Totême, Khaite – have clearly been influenced by the Philo form and this latest drop is only going to magnify that – we can practically hear the Zara design team designing their riff on the collection.
The debut collection has definitely gained mixed reviews – inevitable when something is so anticipated – but one thing is for sure, Phoebe Philo sells clothes and the Philo effect is still very much sending ripples through the fashion industry.
Check out the collection for yourself at
www.phoebephilo.com