This London Restaurant Serves British Cuisine Like You’ve Never Seen It Before
You know it’s the kind of place you dress up to go to when you see it. With large windows that give you a good view of its plush interiors, Sael makes your head turn even if you’re just casually passing through St James’s Market. One of Jason Atherton‘s newest openings, Sael is a restaurant one would reserve to visit with someone special – but never for a nervous first date.
Because your date (no matter how attractive), won’t stand a chance against the sultry meat sliding off the bone on your plate, or that oozing brown butter sliding off your spoon. In a nutshell, go with someone you are more than comfortable sitting in silence with while you concentrate solely on the food on your plate.
From the menu to the interiors, Sael pays tribute to Britain in its own quirky and delicious way. “The inspiration for Sael was simply to celebrate everything that is wonderful about Great Britain, ” says Atherton. “Our seasons, our music influences across the globe, our culture – and do this through food.”
The inspiration for Sael was simply to celebrate everything that is wonderful about Great Britain.
You’ll find a rather wild and wonderful assortment of Britain’s pop stars, football players, actors and more adorning the walls – don’t miss a picture of David Beckham peering at you in the women’s loo. Named after the old English word that means season, Sael’s menu is driven by the seasons and you’ll find touches of nostalgia that will take you back to your favourite after-school snack or the pudding you always looked forward to as a child – but more on that later.
What sets it apart
The dedication to British culture, heritage and the best of what the cuisine has to offer is the most striking part of Sael. In the words of Atherton, “Sael is a very modern take on old fashioned values – it’s current, delicious and fun .” While the dishes include some British staples – they’re all served with an elevated take which won’t fail to surprise you.
Sael is a very modern take on old fashioned values – it’s current, delicious and fun.
Our experience
While Sael is classy and cool, it’s also got a warm, friendly vibe to it once you’re in. The staff will make you feel right at home but don’t be afraid to dress up. We began the evening with a visit to the upstairs speakeasy Apples & Pears (this one’s easy to miss if you’re not looking for it, but I’d recommend a visit for pre-dinner drinks or a nightcap after your meal).
With DJs playing every weekend, this one’s quite the spot for a London night out – expect everything from Duran Duran to The Rolling Stones on the playlist.
What we ordered
If you’re in doubt, do not fear, the staff are more than happy to guide you through the menu from the nibbles right through to dessert. And I would personally recommend arriving with a good appetite. The menu is divided into conveniently self-explanatory sections which I found very helpful as someone who generally wants to order everything on the menu. The first section is “snacks” which are small portions of nibbles to keep you going before you dive in. As someone who religiously has marmite on toast for breakfast at least three times a week, I knew I had to try the marmite custard tart. Best had with a portion of caviar that’s scooped on top, the slice is a delicious combination of sweet and savoury – with the tang of marmite beautifully complimenting the sweetness of the custard. Doubtful? Just try it. (I put a picture of this on my Instagram stories and received some diverse opinions – but for me, it was one of the stars of the menu. I’d visit again just to make a meal out of it). We also had the Koffman potatoes which are served with black pudding hash and pickled apple. Again, a lovely play of sweet and sour, with the crispiness of the potatoes adding a satisfying crunch.
Best had with a portion of caviar that’s scooped on top, the marmite tart is a delicious combination of sweet and savoury.
As ardent meat eaters, the next choice was a bit of a rogue one for us, but we picked the wood fire port-roasted figs and the Caesar salad for starters – a lot leafier than our usual picks, but we were pleasantly surprised. I love an inventive salad, and the Ceasar is nothing like you would have seen before. With smoked bacon, salted pear, aged parmesan, and pimento, the salad is presented with crisp rolls of lettuce covered in parmesan making a great crunchy side.
The Wagyu char sui skewers are the kind that melt in your mouth and you’re tempted to order more.
Moving on to the showstoppers…the Wagyu char sui skewers are the kind that melt in your mouth and you’re tempted to order more of them before you remember you have a main course on the way.
The star of the meal was the incredibly flavoursome and perfectly cooked fillet on the bone, which we ordered with grilled hispi cabbage cooked in brown butter and English miso as a side. The meats – straight from the embers to your table, come with béarnaise and chimichurri and swim in a savoury gravy. Finally, for dessert, we ordered the strawberry jam roly poly that comes in a neat earthen pot with the butter and jam still bubbling. The custard will be poured on top of it right in front of you.
The verdict
You’ll want to return again to try everything you couldn’t squeeze into your meal on the first visit. As autumn gives way to winter, I’m only to excited to return to discover what’s next as the seasons change.
Make your bookings here: www.saellondon.com
