“I’m A Food Journalist And These Are My Top 5 Bakeries In London”

Pastries are hit or miss, and there is nothing more disappointing than a miss. The only times I truly seek out a bakery are when I’m really trying to scratch the itch that only carbs can scratch, and when it doesn’t do the trick, it’s day-ruining. There’s much discussion to be had about the “best bakeries in London”, and everyone is entitled to their own opinions. So here I am, granting myself the permission to rank my top 5, and I can 99% ensure that they’ll scratch the itch if the itch ails you, too.

1. Best affordable bakery

St. JOHN Bakery

These days, it’s easier to find a dog with a rainbow tail than it is to find a cinnamon bun under £4. I was surprised to find that St. JOHN, widely considered the best restaurant in London, has pastries under such a number, not at their restaurants, but at their bakeries. Something about St. JOHN that makes it so attractive is its lack of ego. A tempting flair that says, “I’m rich, but I’m generous”. It shines through in their plating, in their service, and in their bakeries, where you can purchase an absolutely dashing bun or doughnut for less than you’d probably be willing to splurge. P.s. Madeleines.

Where: Neal’s Yard, Druid St & Borough
Website: www.stjohnrestaurant.com

2. Best expensive bakery

Fortitude Bakehouse

Fortitude, I must say, is my favourite on this list. I once went in and tried about 8 pastries all at once, and each bite was better than the last. Their beignets, what they are known for, are actually an incredible feat in striking the balance between sweet and creamy. A lemon poppyseed loaf here is somehow refreshing; a custard bun is walking on a cloud. But it was their pan au chocolat, if you can even call it that, that completely blew me out of the water. I’ve had pastries all over the world; this is the best chocolate thing I have ever had. There is no skimping in filling, no awkward snap of bark. The pastry itself is flaky, soft, buttery, light. It is unmatched; in my opinion, it is heaven. 

Where: 35 Colonnade, London WC1N 1J
Website: www.mi1fej-ez.myshopify.com

3. Best new(ish) bakery

TOAD Bakery

It’s everyone’s favourite. There is no going wrong with a cheeky TOAD pastry. It’s the perfect place if you’re hungover, if you’re fresh, if you’re on an active stroll or a walk of shame. TOAD is for everyone. I say “new” because they’ve just opened their second location in Deptford, and it is just as charming and warm as the first. Clear eyes into the bakery, smells wafting all around, friends and family working the tills; TOAD is comfort in a bottle. More than that, their double chocolate cookie is comfort in a baked good. I’ll say one thing about TOAD: they know how much salt to sprinkle (lots). (P.S. TOAD’S croissants are £2.80; many of their pastries don’t exceed a fiver, and their coffee is £2.90.) 

Where: Restaurant 1, St Paul’s House, 3 Market Yard, London SE8 4BX
Website: www.toadbakery.com

4. Best looking bakery

Onsu

Onsu has become a household name as of late, and for good reason. The pastries are nothing if not enviable. Buns begging to be torn to spill out filling, cheesecakes with mirrored glaze, fluffy toasts and, as a bonus, coffee served in a glass so cold it is coated in ice (although that doesn’t sound entirely pleasant). That being said, it is for one reason I would return: the wagyu beef curry bun. It is slightly sweet but entirely decadent in its filling, of which there is a substantial amount. Despite its stuffedness, the bun is a pillow of steel, keeping everything encased while still being soft and comforting, not doughy or chewy at all. This I do think about. 

Where: 55A Dean St, London W1D 6AG
Website: www.onsubakery.com

5. Honourable mention

Toklas Bakery

Toklas, by all means, is a bakery. So why might I be filing it as honourable mention… a wild card? That is because I am not here to highlight their pastries, as good as they might be; I am here to discuss their new addition to the menu – Roman sandwiches. Again, Roman sandwiches are quite basic, quite done; how special can they be? I thought this too, until I found out that the bread is Roman pizza dough, meaning that these sandwiches make for a glorified pizza crust sandwich. The crunch of it, the crisp of it, the warm toasted insides of it: it’s genius. This is a fabulous sandwich to get on the go, a perfect walking meal. I had it yesterday, and now I want it again.

Where: 9 Surrey St, Temple, London WC2R 2ND
Website: www.toklaslondon.com