This Iconic London Dish Was Made For Marmite Lovers
In the inaugural edition of The Handbook’s Dish of the Month series, where we spotlight one iconic dish in London that we loved, I wrote about a sandwich that intrigued me. This month, I’m thinking about a dish that I ate a few months ago – but it’s the one I always bring up in conversation when people ask me about the best places I’ve eaten in London. It’s not a new dish by any standards, but it’s certainly one that people either love or hate – whatever it is, you just can’t ignore it.
Jason Atherton opened Sael last November in a prime spot in St James’s Market that pays tribute to classic British cuisine with an elevated twist. And a dish that stood out to me on the menu, even before I visited, was the Marmite English custard tart. If you hate Marmite, look away; this might be triggering – although this dish might just convert you. If you love it (like me), and it’s a staple in the breakfast cupboard, this one’s for you.
The dish
The menu at Sael is divided into conveniently self-explanatory sections, which I found very helpful as someone who generally wants to order everything on the menu. The first section is “snacks”, which are small portions of nibbles to keep you going before you dive in. As someone who religiously has Marmite on toast for breakfast at least three times a week, I knew I had to try the Marmite custard tart.
As someone who religiously has marmite on toast for breakfast at least three times a week, I knew I had to try the Marmite custard tart.
Andrea, Contributing Food, Culture & Lifestyle Editor
Best had with a portion of caviar that’s scooped on top, the slice is a delicious combination of sweet and savoury – with the tang of Marmite beautifully complementing the sweetness of the custard. Doubtful? Just try it. (I put a picture of this on my Instagram stories and received some diverse opinions – but for me, it was one of the stars of the menu. I’d visit again just to make a meal out of it.) It might sound like it shouldn’t work, but somehow it just does.
What else should you order?
The menu is seasonal, so you might not find your favourite dishes on the menu every time you visit. But other highlights include the twice-baked soufflé with Montgomery cheddar, Northumberland game terrine with Cumberland sauce and toast and the woodfire crown prince squash. It’s the season for a nice, hearty pie, and there are two lovely ones on the menu – a Norfolk chicken pie and a classic steak and ale.
Another star of the meal was the incredibly flavoursome and perfectly cooked fillet on the bone, which we ordered with hispi cabbage. The meats – straight from the embers to your table, come with béarnaise and swim in a delicious gravy.
The meats – straight from the embers to your table, come with béarnaise and swim in a delicous gravy.
Finally, for dessert, if you’re looking for something yummy and nostalgic, order the steamed treacle sponge with Jersey custard or go for the ‘Horlicks’ ice cream, with malt ice cream, warm chocolate mousse, buckwheat and hazelnut.
