Is Sino Notting Hill’s Next Great Restaurant?
In 2025 in London, due to an increasingly hostile and prohibitive financial environment, every new restaurant opening is a minor miracle, but Notting Hill’s new neighbourhood spot is especially remarkable. Two years ago, Head Chef Eugene Korolev was fighting on the front lines in eastern Ukraine. In May, he and co-founder Polina Sychova opened SINO on All Saints Road, aiming to tell an alternate story of their homeland through food.
Sino is not alone in bringing a taste of authentic Ukrainian cuisine to London, demystifying what is a lesser-known culinary ecosystem for many in the city. A recent wave has emerged; Mriya Bistro opened in 2022 in Earl’s Court, and this year has seen both Sino in Notting Hill and Tatar Bunar in Shoreditch follow.
What sets it apart
As mentioned, Sino is located in Notting Hill, a borough that is fast becoming the low-key foodie soft power of the city. Dorian, Akub and a host of fancy gastropubs are the talk of the town, and absolutely crawling with celebrities. Dining in the borough is different to the in-your-face extravagance of Mayfair restaurants; much more understated, but god, you can still feel the wealth coming out of the pores. The table next to me was deep in discussion about their various restaurant investments and celeb gossip.
Sino is located in Notting Hill, a borough that is fast becoming the low-key foodie soft power of the city.
Sino fits the vibe perfectly, while also feeling like a neighbourhood restaurant. It’s small – only 30 seats or so are available – and impeccably decorated, playing tribute to Ukrainian craftsmanship and designed by Sychova. Korolev has a sparkling resume, having worked in Paris and Warsaw, and first came up with the idea for Sino while writing notes and recipes on the front lines. The menu has some familiar classics like chicken Kyiv, and local favourites like cherry-glazed catfish, but is also a place for him to experiment with the flavours and produce of Ukraine.
Our experience
Everything on the menu has been diligently thought through, right to the cocktail list, curated by Ukrainian mixologist Ana Reznik and all wholly unique Sino creations. We tried the Barberry, featuring gin, barberry, St. Germain and barberry foam, which was floral and just slightly tart.
The wine list on the surface is more traditional, with offerings from Spain, France and Italy, but they are experimenting behind the scenes: on offer during our visit was an off-menu orange wine from Ukraine, a Beykush Rkatsiteli, which was truly delicious and hopefully becomes a fixture on the main list.
Everything on the menu has been diligently thought through, right to the cocktail list
Your server introduces the restaurant as a sharing-style, but the menu is structured very much like a traditional starter and main à la carte. What that means is that the mains, which can be priced between £20 and £30, are slightly smaller than you’d expect. For two people, three starters and three mains are probably needed. It does mean you can sample what is a truly delicious menu, but it can hike the price up quite high.
Black pudding croquettes for starters come with a sweet apple jam and spicy adjika, a garlicky red pepper paste that will leave you scraping every last morsel from the plate. An early contender for the star of the starter section is crayfish wrapped in cabbage, floating in a warming broth of tomato and dill, which is as pretty as it is flavoursome. For the mains, they are smaller than you might expect, so three between two is needed, but choosing the catfish is essential, and emblematic of what Sino is trying to achieve. A local, traditional Ukrainian dish elevated through technique and just a bit of a twist. The cherry glaze, combined with a sauce made from sausage and paprika, makes for a deep, rich and delicious mix. You’re mourning its loss by the end.
If ever there was time to save room for dessert, this was it. The honey cake, a labour of love made with buckwheat, chocolate and honey layers and takes 48 hours to come together, is one of the best desserts I’ve eaten this year. Luxurious and velvety, its sweetness is pitched to absolute perfection. Korolev has said it’s his favourite dish on the menu, and it’s a must-order.
Verdict
Sino is (hopefully) just in its infancy, but already it feels focused and lived in. It will hopefully open palates in London to an undervalued cuisine without compromise, although it could be a little friendlier to vegetarians. There’s more than a trace of potential star-chasing, which you hope doesn’t supersede its potential as a neighbourhood favourite. They’ve not been open long, but in the spotlight so far, they’re burning bright.
