As London Fashion Week SS27 draws to a close, The Handbook’s Contributing Fashion Editor Astrid Carter shares her standout highlights. From Christopher Kane’s much-anticipated vision for Mulberry to Simone Rocha’s signature subversive romanticism, here are the runway moments that stole the show.

Mulberry by Christopher Kane

A model wearing a grey coat, carrying a matching handbag, and walking down a catwalk as an audience watches from both sides, captures the dynamic atmosphere of London Fashion Week.

For weeks, Mulberry by Christopher Kane has been teasing us on social media with vague Reels of stripped-back tree bark, time-lapsed squished mulberries, and fresh green saplings sprouting from the ground. The messaging hinted at rebirth and a fresh direction, but gave very little away about the clothes. Naturally, I – along with the rest of the fashion set – was champing at the bit to see what the acclaimed designer would bring to this iconic British heritage brand.

I’ve been a massive fan of Christopher and his sister Tammy, his long-time creative and business partner, ever since he burst onto the scene with one of the most iconic graduate shows in fashion history. Back in 2006, while I was studying journalism at London College of Fashion, his seminal debut of neon nylon, stretch lace, and seatbelt buckles felt like a seismic moment. I’ve followed his work ever since and was heartbroken when his eponymous label closed in 2023, so I was very much waiting with bated breath for this exciting new era.

It certainly delivered. The collection was calm, practical, and filled with pieces women actually want to wear: plaid shirts, sumptuous mulberry-toned knits with clever cut-outs, shimmering, mermaid-esque layered shift dresses waiting to be taken out to dinner, and wear-everywhere shirting – from powdery blue masculine tailoring to statement embroidered collars.

But the coats stole the show. Oh, the coats!

But the coats stole the show. Oh, the coats! A transparent PVC check mac, a funnel-neck car coat in matching plaid, buttery-soft leather midis, and an outrageously oversized hooded orange parka – a delightfully cheeky South Park nod for us millennials.

A triumphant return and easily one of the most exciting collaborations in fashion today. I can’t wait to see what he does next.

Simone Rocha

A model walks a catwalk at London Fashion Week, wearing a sheer white dress with green floral accents and a large, fluffy, pale pink frill over one shoulder in a grand hall—an ensemble sure to catch the discerning eye of any fashion editor.

You can always count on Simone Rocha for a dose of subversive romanticism, and her SS27 collection is easily one of her finest to date.

Taking place in the grand settings of the Old Bailey – London’s most famous criminal court – the show was pure theatre from the outset. Rocha drew inspiration from Caravaggio’s masterpiece The Taking of Christ, famously rediscovered in her hometown of Dublin after two centuries. The palette felt lifted straight from the painting itself: rich scarlet velvets, inky midnight blues, and delicate pale pinks that felt moody, yearning and full of romanticism.

A model walks on a catwalk at London Fashion Week, wearing a cream sleeveless dress with a loose skirt and red and white flower details at the waist, paired with black heels. The background features seated audience and elegant columns.
A model walks down a catwalk at London Fashion Week wearing a sleeveless, deep blue velvet dress with decorative frills on the bodice, her hands in the pockets. The audience, including discerning fashion editors, are seated on both sides in a grand hall.

But alongside the drama were grounded, everyday additions that toned down the sentimentality of it all.

In true signature Simone style, the runway delivered sweeping ruffles, wispy sheer dresses, dramatic cocoon silhouettes, and ornate necklines. But alongside the drama were grounded, everyday additions that toned down the sentimentality of it all – most notably a vivid red sporty Harrington jacket and a fresh take on Argyle knitwear that are bound to be duped on the high street any day now.

Erdem

A model with a shaven head walks a foggy catwalk at London Fashion Week, wearing a long black coat, white dress shirt, high-collared black shorts adorned with rhinestones, black socks, and black shoes.
Model walks on a catwalk at London Fashion Week wearing a long black coat over a loose, cream-coloured satin outfit with wide trousers, white boots, and a dramatic tall collar against a dark background—an ensemble that would capture the attention of any discerning fashion editor.

Oh, to live in Erdem’s world. The designer has remained fiercely loyal to London since his 2006 debut, despite Paris undoubtedly calling his name. Famous for his breathtaking, intricately crafted evening wear – with loyal red carpet devotees like Keira Knightley and Alexa Chung – Erdem delivered on spectacle once again. Highlights included peachy crinoline silhouettes accented with air-light feathers, crystal-encrusted lingerie-esque minidresses, and dramatic, goth-coded lace floor-sweepers built for the likes of Charli XCX or Gabriette.

A model walks a catwalk at London Fashion Week wearing a sleeveless, pale yellow dress adorned with 3D floral appliqués, a deep V-neck, and a sheer, flowing skirt, paired with black shoes against a dark background.
Model walks catwalk at London Fashion Week wearing a checked long coat, blue button-up shirt, white tie, beige drawstring shorts with patches, white socks, and black shoes, against a dark background—a look sure to catch the eye of any fashion editor covering their favourite shows.

The kind of show that reminds you exactly why you fell in love with fashion in the first place.

Yet the collection was finely balanced, too, marrying soft romance with a sharp masculine edge. Drawing inspiration from Barbette – the 1920s trapeze artist and muse to Man Ray – there were also razor-sharp tailored coats, classic black tuxedo shapes, and rich heritage tweeds. Wearable banker-striped shirting sat beneath structured blazers trimmed with airy feather plumes, while playful long boxer shorts leaned into gender-fluid dressing. Adding a layer of utilitarian ease, Erdem revisited his ongoing Barbour collaboration with dramatic, oversized reimaginings of the iconic British wax jacket. These are sure to be sell-outs come next season.

A model walks a catwalk at London Fashion Week wearing an olive green jacket with oversized sleeves, a floral scarf, a silver top, sequin shorts, and light pink lace-up sandals against a dark background.
A model walks a catwalk at London Fashion Week wearing a light yellow, asymmetrical dress with lace and frill details, thin straps, and flat pink shoes, against a dark background.

Beyond the meticulous craftsmanship, it was the colour palette that I found particularly captivating. Rich but elegant hues – soft butter layered with silver, peachy pink, vivid raspberry, and fresh peppermint – popped against stark black tailoring and slate grey tones. It’s the kind of show that reminds you exactly why you fell in love with fashion in the first place.

Accessories, Fashion, Outfits, Trending Fashion

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