This Playful But Cool New Restaurant Brings The Charm Of Cannes To London
It’s only March, but London has already had a host of exciting openings from Applebees in Borough Market to Gordon Ramsay‘s Lucky Cat in Mayfair. Adding to that list is a buzzy new restaurant which opened its doors in January this year – La Môme London.
The latest venture by restaurateurs Ugo and Antoine Lecorché, the restaurant is the Lecorché brothers’ fourth chapter, having opened La Môme Plage in 2018 and La Môme Monte Carlo in 2022. The OG La Môme is, of course, the legendary Cannes restaurant, which is much loved by tourists, locals and more-than-occasional celebrities. Spanning an entire street, the Cannes institution is known for its luxe but informal aesthetic – the kind of place where you might just run into a Hollywood star on vacation digging into a souffle. And the restaurant’s London outpost looks like it will be no stranger to A-list patrons too (I am told Halle Berry was in attendance for dinner just the night before my visit – “she loved it”.) While it would be impossible for me to tell if the London restaurant lives up to the reputation that its Cannes counterpart has established (because sadly, I have never been), the restaurant certainly looks like one of London’s most exciting openings of the year.
What sets it apart?
Located at The Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge, La Môme London is just a stone’s throw away from Hyde Park. I visited the restaurant for lunch on a cold, grey, very rainy February, but as soon as I walked in it felt like summer.
As soon as I walked in it felt like summer.
As far as vibes are concerned it has that relaxed Mediterranean charm that so many restaurants in London try and emulate – but this one succeeds wholeheartedly. It oozes seduction and sophistication with its rich colour palette and interiors designed by the Cannes-based, award-winning interior architect Samy Chams.
Walk around the restaurant and you’ll find framed Slim Aarons’ photographs of sixties Riviera life lining the walls, an ode to the American photographer whose work serves as style inspiration for the Lecorché brothers. Sunshine yellow sofas, pastel pink and blue plates, deep golden hues with reds and browns thrown in – colour is everywhere, but it doesn’t feel overwhelming. It’s cheery without being annoyingly optimistic, and the abundance of greenery on the covered terrace makes you feel like you really are on holiday in the Mediterranean.
Our experience
From the minute I entered to find my friend patiently waiting for me, Diet Coke in hand, ready for our “palentines” date (it was the 15th of February…), I knew that I was in for a treat. The Riviera-inspired decor was instantly pleasing, the staff were only too happy to crack a joke or two and the people seated around us were all painfully interesting-looking. (If people-watching is your thing, La Môme will not disappoint). But the food watching is even better. Theatrics is key here, and while we waited for our starters, I watched a flaming fish arriving at a table nearby and cocktails came shrouded in a cloud of dry ice at another.
What we ordered
To start with, we ordered the truffle arancini and beef tartare. This was a golden-fried risotto with stracciatella and Parmesan, paired with beef tartare and fresh truffle shavings. The risotto was perfectly crunchy and the beef tartare had a lovely tangy flavour that was made even more flavourful with the truffle on top.
The risotto was perfectly crunchy and the beef tartare had a lovely tangy flavour.
Next, the Australian wagyu tagliata arrived, which is a Josper-grilled steak that’s thinly sliced, so it’s easy to share. Fresh arugula on top and greens on the side made the ideal main course.
We were craving something warm and comforting, so we ordered the black truffle macaroni, which was simple but delicious (can you tell we really like truffle?), and also just the kind of dish I would order on holiday.
The food is top-notch, with a hint of theatrics in the service.
To finish, we had the giant cookie for dessert served with a dark chocolate sauce, salted butter caramel and vanilla ice cream – another comforting choice for a rainy afternoon.
The verdict
I had the impression that is the kind of place that grows on you, tempting you to visit not just for a special occasion but just when you want a friendly place for lunch or dinner that you know will leave you feeling happy inside. Perfect for a date night or even just a solo lunch, La Môme London delivers on its promise of Riviera-chic dining that brings the holiday to you.
